Hello from Australia AXE , BPC and CFCA owner

hoodee3

New Member
Hi All. Hoodee from Australia. Looks like a great forum and looking forward to finding some info and maybe even giving some.
I have had quite a few T5 s. Transporter and multivans over the years. I have a few now that I am wrecking and I do ALL my own work to them. Servicing and major mechanical. I am not a mechanic but I have learnt as I have always lived fairly isolated..and I just prefer to do the work myself.

My main van is a 05 128kw AXE T5 transporter LWB 4motion 5 seater 6spd manual with almost 600,000km on it. I believe its the original engine. It still goes but requires a lot of things done so I am shortly going to retire it. I already purchased a really nice 2010 T5 LWB CFCA Auto 5 seater with quite low km for the right price. Its got a buggered engine. The guy I purchased it from just spent a whole lot of money on it..dpf, injectors, new turbos, egr..ect..but the poor fellow was fisted as the damage to the engine was already done.
Anyway..I have already rebuilt a CFCA myself before..its actually still sitting in my shed but I have sold it, so I will pull this motor and do the same. Rebore. Recond head. Bearings, oil pump ect..
I want to completely remove the egr and I have seen the complete egr removal kit (for about $800au) but I was going to just make my own using the Amarok oil cooler. Any tips? I have not actually thoroughly searched the threads here but a quick search didn't show a lot..or a step by step guide on really getting completely rid of the main issue that haunts all the CFCA engines.

May even do a whole build thread on the engine if someone else is interested.
I use Spareto.com for most of my VAG parts. They are the best company I have dealt with for parts and the shipping to Australia is unbelievably quick and reasonably priced using DHL.

Anyway.. that's my bit done
 
Did you rebuild the cfca oversized ? And where did you buy pistons? Looking into pulling my cfca out myself

Thanks
 
Hi. Yes I had it bored at .5mm oversize as those were the only pistons I could find at the time. I got some off ebay. They are probably Chinese but they appear pretty well made. I did actually use Mahle rings in them as I misplaced the ones it came with. I have the front of the car off now and I am about to pull the engine out. Pistons cost me about $400 posted. I beleive most of the newer vag 2.0tdi engines share pistons and most engine parts so look around.

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I would have used these pistons if I had seen them at the time. I purchased mine over 2 years ago
 
And here is where I am at now. Front end pulled off. I don't have a hoist so I'm going to lower the subframe on the bolts a little as they are quite long and pull it out the front. The old EGR is version A.

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Here is a good write up from another forum about completely removing the old CFCA egr system and replacing it with the 03l 115 389 c part.



I see there are new completely aluminium coolers available now..that have no plastic body so I think I will use that

 
Awesome thanks hoodie,

I've got a hoist so that will help abit, I'm abit unsure if I should rebuild it or try to find a low km write off missed 1 last week but not sure what it ended up selling for at auction had 44k km

What did the head reckon. Cost approx ?
 
Oh you have a hoist. I think it might make the job a little easier. I'll see tomorrow how the engine comes out the front with an engine lift. I'm leaving the gearbox on and I'm not taking the steering rack out..only lowering the subframe on the bolts a bit. I did take the ac compressor off the give it some more clearance. And the rear engine mount completely off at the block. I did price Chinese heads complete with valves and cams for about $1200. I am hoping this head is ok as it had pretty good compression readings..about 23 to 25 bar. Apart from the cylinder that dropped the rod out the side of the block. I also have another head that has done 120,000km so between the 2 I will get one good one. I am kind of doing this on the cheap.. if you hadn't already guessed, I am still looking to build a good strong engine however. Low km written off t5 and t6s are still bringing strong money at the auctions. Id expect you would pay at least 5k Au for a low km vehicle..no matter how badly damaged it is..or you can rebuild yourself if you are handy for about 2500..depending of course what damage there is. My donor engines crank was still in good condition and just required a polish. Not bad considering the bores were very bad and there was obviously a lot of contaminated oil circulating in there for some time. I'd rebuild yours..then you know it's done. Get rid of the egr completely and I'm going to also make a dpf delete pipe for mine.
You just have to get in there and get it done. Its a bit daunting..but..its fiddly..not rocket science. They actually aren't too bad at all to work on. Everything has come off mine easily. It is in really good condition for a 2010 tho. Must have been a highway country car as there's no dirt of corrosion anywhere underneath
Cheers
 
I have my rebuilt engine in now. Just hooking up the ancillaries. It came out easier than going in. It needs to be on a bit of an angle so the gearbox is a few degrees lower. The engine stand also hit the back of the top of the firewall but with the help of 2 rolling jacks I was able to shuffle the motor back enough and get the gearbox mount bolted and then it was easy to get the other mounts bolted in. I did this just by myself but another set of hands would have come in handy

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The cylinder head off the original damaged engine must have just been replaced as it looked perfect. I couldn't see any damage where the piston hit it which is really strange as one of the pistons definitely decided to leave the rod. I pulled the whole cylinder head complete with the turbos and manifold and that's the way it went back on to the rebuilt short engine. I replaced the egr cooler with an all aluminium one from the amarok. It was about $80au delivered from ali and it actually looks pretty decent. It came with a filter though I used a Mahle in it. The rear steel coolant pipe did hit the housing just so I had to dremel cut the left side support bracket so it could be moved back the 10 or so mm it needs, otherwise it was pushing on a joint where the thermostat housing is. I will use a spare hose to connect the unused original coolant feed pipes instead of the elbow that you get in the kits. That tee/hose size is 20mm in case anyone was wondering

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