Help with Loncin Professional A Series Generator

[GruB]

I believe it was part of the Community Safety Partnership or something similar - our Village Hall was required to house a generator for use in case of an emergency.
The generator is a Loncin Professional A Series Generator with a starting output of 8000 watts. It has an electric start function as well.
The Chairperson asked me to test the generator and also has permitted me to use it on the Village Green to help shred the epicormic growth of the Lime Trees I have been removing.

Yesterday I got the generator out, unsurprisingly the electric start didn't work as the reisidual charge was probably depleted.
I got it started using the pull cord and it sounded fine.
I then lifted the blue cover over the 230v coupler only to find it had a 3 circular pin plug. Next to it were two yellow 115v couplers that also had similar couplers although the orientation was different of the larger pin.

I went and found a Defender 2 gang lead and also a 25 metre extension lead. Both these fit together nicely but neither is large enough to fit to the generator.
Thank goodness we have not had an emergency since 2015 !!!

So I can determine what we need - can anyone suggest if I need new cables or something like an adapter to bridge the larger size from the generator to the smaller size of the lead?

 

[Dellmassive]

Bose connectors come in a 16 amp or 32 amp variety.

If it's a 8 kilowatt generator I'd imagine it will be the 32 amp plug socket?

 

[GruB]

I hoped you would see this
I have just zoomed in on the writing on my image and yes, you are correct.
I seem to recall the blue cable did say 16 amp on it too.

Thanking you.

 

[Dellmassive]

You need to measure the socket width.

It's midday likely a 32A commando.

But could be a 16A commando.

 

[Salty Spuds]

And this children, is why you shouldn’t trust AI

 

[roadtripper]

Yep that will be a 32A blue Commando type - you can buy off the shelf splitters that break it down into two 16A sizes (as used in EHU)

Be very careful though that the socket is still capable of supplying the full power, Commando sockets have no fusing or other current protection, so theoretically if you step down to a 16A lead you could draw 32A through it.

If you are using it to power a single power tool for this job you'll be fine.

But if you are thinking about using it some more for events or actually as a backup generator you'll need to be more careful, usually in this role you'd have a 32A rated cable into a board with a number of more useful sockets (likely 13A for backups) possibly via a garage consumer unit with some MCBs.

 

[GruB]

Okay. Measuring the output plug and using that Essential Supplies site is a solid plan.

 

[roadtripper]

Something like this from Toughleads:

32A to 16A splitter (230v & 415v options)

Handy adaptor adapter splitter to enable either a 230v or 415v (3 phase) 32A supply to safely feed two 230v or 415v 16A sockets. CEE, industrial, commando connectors. MCBs. Temporary site supply, stage lighting, computer, UPS, generator.

toughleads.co.uk

 

[GruB]

I am still very surprised that I am the first person to actually identify this. I thank the lucky stars we have not had a Zombie uprising before this time.

 

[roadtripper]

Also at least you had the generator. I help look after the local Village Hall (mostly the technical services) and we've seen that the local safety plan has designated the hall as a point of refuge in major power cuts etc.

We don't have any power backup whatsoever - for the past decade they just assumed we had and never spoke to us ...

 

[roadtripper]

Is it this one?

Loncin LC8000D-AS Generator

Single-phase 230V /110V 6000 Rated watts 8 hr running time Complete with free wheel kit Electric start Fitted with AVR for stable output to sensitive appliances Ideal for home backup or industrial use

www.justgenerators.co.uk

In which case it has 2 x 110v 32A and 1 x 240v 32A and a continuous load of 6000kVA and a surge starting load of 8000kVA

 

[GruB]

Yep. And Professional PH balanced or something or other petrol to go in it.

 

[roadtripper]

Yeah, as I said in a DM if you are using it for it's intended purpose you need to keep on top of having fresh fuel or use stabiliser additive - modern petrol gums up generator carburettors in storage in a surprisingly short time.

 

[Bargy62]

Yep. And Professional PH balanced or something or other petrol to go in it.

I would check with the supplier what petrol to use as we changed from E5 to E10 not so long ago it may need an additive as well
But hopefully someone more up on these things we be able to advise

 

[roadtripper]

Any reasonably current engine will not need an additive for the valve seat issues that impacted classic cars during the switch to unleaded.

The gumming up/corrosion issue stems from the interaction of water being absorbed by the "bio" mix of the fuel, essentially industrial alcohol.

E5 contains 5% and E10 10% so it effects both though the current E10 will tend to absorb more water.

Logically using the "premium" petrol, which tends to be E5, sounds like a good idea. The problem is sales of this fuel are much slower so it sits in part full storage tanks for much longer and will tend to have more water absorbed at the point of sale...

Personally I would run generators from E10 sourced from busy fuel stations rather than using E5. If the engine is running as regularly as a car then you shouldn't need anything more doing.

If you are going to leave the generator longer than you would leave a car parked then either use the stabiliser additive or ensure the fuel is drained, especially from the carburettor. On mine I've added an extra moped fuel filter and line before the carburettor, when I'm storing it I unclip the fuel line there and drain the tank back into the jerry can and run the engine until it stops to drain the remaining fuel in the carburettor. Technically that still leaves some risk of moisture in the air drawn in effecting things so if you want a really robust approach to an engine you mothball over the winter then once you've drained the tank put a small amount of very fresh fuel with a high dose of stabiliser in and run it until you are sure that is drawn into every point of the engine - that means all the fuel surfaces are not exposed to water from the air or untreated fuel.

 

[GruB]

This is what we use:

 

[DaveD]

This is what we use:

View attachment 284388

Yes, Stihl and Husqvarna do similar alkalyte fuels, I use them in machines that often go unused for months, they don't gum up the carbs.