I’ve messed up - Inverter Install

[8balladdict]

As part of my current upgrade from AGM to Lithium, I’m installing a 2000w Renogy inverter to power my 1800w induction hob. However, I didn’t consider the limited space I have in my van and the pretty much the only place I can install it is in the back in the garage. My battery being a 230Ah seatbase battery installed in, you guessed it, under the drivers seat.

So, that leaves me with either a best case 4m cable run along the back of my units, worst case 6-7m run up the back, along the roofline and down the b pillar to the seatbase. Obviously this throws out the 50mm² cable I had originally spec’d and looks like I’d probably need to go to 95mm² or 120mm² to get to the right accepted voltage drop. Given the amp rating of the cable, I don’t think heat will be an issue so it should be ok, if I can get it routed. It would only be a single positive cable too as I’m going to ground it to the earth point at the D pillar. And I know it’s going to be ridiculously expensive but it’s the only option I have I think.

My question is, has anyone else actually done this with success? I’ve had a search and can’t find any posts specifically for it.

 

[ginkster]

Not for an inverter but I’ve run cables from under the seat to the rear wardrobe. More like 2 or 3m if you put the inverter at the front of the wardrobe and run the cables at floor height or just above. Mine go under floor covering, up B pillar slightly then along side wall behind units into wardrobe. Only visible bit is 3” between B pillar and units.

 

[8balladdict]

Not for an inverter but I’ve run cables from under the seat to the rear wardrobe. More like 2 or 3m if you put the inverter at the front of the wardrobe and run the cables at floor height or just above. Mine go under floor covering, up B pillar slightly then along side wall behind units into wardrobe. Only visible bit is 3” between B pillar and units.

I’ve got a twin slider so makes it trickier. I’ve got units in front of the door so can get pretty much all the way to the step, which is now boxed in but don’t think I can get from there to the seat base without exposing the cable, which isn’t really what I want to do.

 

[roadtripper]

With that length of run might be worth considering if you can mount it near the front but not hidden, which adds some cooling benefits.

I've seen a lot of folks with side kitchens mount them on the end of the kitchen in the "dead space" near the floor and I know @TallPaul_S has his on the back of the drivers side seat base.

A 2000w output inverter is going to need something like 2500w input assuming 80% efficiency. Assuming a system voltage of 12v (as even a seat base LiFePo is going to sag at this point) that's 210 amps.

Using this cable temperature table (thanks @EAN ) to keep to a 50 degree temperature rise (so around 70-80 degrees) you are going to need AWG 0 guage, so broadly 55mm2 cable

So yes I think you need the next size up for heating reasons as well as voltage drop.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Yeah mine is mounted on the back of the seat base, with a mount that allows the 50mm² cable to loop around and enter into the seat base where my battery is. Fits perfectly under the factory swivel seat, and there's plenty of circulation for when the fans start.

 

[ginkster]

I’ve got a twin slider so makes it trickier. I’ve got units in front of the door so can get pretty much all the way to the step, which is now boxed in but don’t think I can get from there to the seat base without exposing the cable, which isn’t really what I want to do.

Ah, right, that makes it trickier.

 

[8balladdict]

With that length of run might be worth considering if you can mount it near the front but not hidden, which adds some cooling benefits.

I've seen a lot of folks with side kitchens mount them on the end of the kitchen in the "dead space" near the floor and I know @TallPaul_S has his on the back of the drivers side seat base.

A 2000w output inverter is going to need something like 2500w input assuming 80% efficiency. Assuming a system voltage of 12v (as even a seat base LiFePo is going to sag at this point) that's 210 amps.

Using this cable temperature table (thanks @EAN ) to keep to a 50 degree temperature rise (so around 70-80 degrees) you are going to need AWG 0 guage, so broadly 55mm2 cable

So yes I think you need the next size up for heating reasons as well as voltage drop.

Believe me, I’ve looked at the options. The end of the kitchen unit hold my table top when stowed and that’s the only place that can go so can’t put it there. Can’t do the seat base as that’s where my diesel heater outlet is so probably not a good idea putting it there. Honestly, the back is the only option I can see

Just be good to know if anyone else has managed it and all is ok with volt drop and heat etc.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Believe me, I’ve looked at the options. The end of the kitchen unit hold my table top when stowed and that’s the only place that can go so can’t put it there. Can’t do the seat base as that’s where my diesel heater outlet is so probably not a good idea putting it there. Honestly, the back is the only option I can see

Just be good to know if anyone else has managed it and all is ok with volt drop and heat etc.

Can’t you go down, through the floor, under the van & then back up into the garage space. Run the cables in some flexible conduit?

 

[8balladdict]

Can’t you go down, through the floor, under the van & then back up into the garage space. Run the cables in some flexible conduit?

I guess I could but sounds pretty full on. Wouldn’t really know where to start on that though

 

[Salty Spuds]

I guess I could but sounds pretty full on. Wouldn’t really know where to start on that though

There’s a hole under the driver’s seat with a bung in it. Depending on where you want it to surface, you may have to cut a hole. Do you have a gas drop out near the inverter?

 

[t0mb0]

I don’t suppose there’s some kind of weatherproof inverter that would mount under the van is there? I would go to fairly extreme lengths to avoid running a cable of that size the length of the van.

 

[8balladdict]

There’s a hole under the driver’s seat with a bung in it. Depending on where you want it to surface, you may have to cut a hole. Do you have a gas drop out near the inverter?

Na, nothing at the back. My hookup goes through the hidden panel under the tail light

 

[8balladdict]

There’s a hole under the driver’s seat with a bung in it. Depending on where you want it to surface, you may have to cut a hole. Do you have a gas drop out near the inverter?

Being a converted twin slider, there is a void where the drivers side rear step used to be. I think I can drill a hole from there to get the cable under the van and through to the driver seat hole.

@Salty Spuds Do you know exactly where the bung is under the seat as i’m putting in a 230Ah seatbase battery in there. Will I still be able to get the cable plus conduit out there with the battery in?

 

[Bigsidavies]

Is there no way that it can be fitted to the rear of your units where the driver’s side sliding door is?
So that it’s visible when you open the door if that makes sense.

 

[t0mb0]

If you are planning a route for the cable, spec the exact cable required and check the bend radius - anything approximating a right angle might be a challenge with the kind of sizes we’re talking about here.

 

[Bigsidavies]

Maybe it’s time to look at table top storage/relocation to get the inverter on the end of the units.. Tailgate? Pop top bed board?
Rear of passenger seat? Complete table top redesign?

 

[8balladdict]

Maybe I just need to sack off the inverter and commit to only having mains on hookup. I’ve managed for 6 years without it.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Maybe I just need to sack off the inverter and commit to only having mains on hookup. I’ve managed for 6 years without it.

We’ve had an inverter for 7 years and never used it. TBH I think (and this is only my opinion based on experience) that they are a waste of space & money in a small camper. Unless you have a specific need that can’t be otherwise satisfied.

 

[Shaun Witts]

I use my inverter quite often, but only the Nespresso coffee machine is dependant on electricity - the toaster & kettle (for the wife’s tea) can both be fulfilled with gas equivalents.
However, I also have an EcoFlow Delta 2 and last time out (Busfest), this provided enough power for all of the above, so I didn’t use the fitted inverter at all.

 

[TallPaul_S]

So far on week 1 of my three week trip, I've used my gas 2 burner hob... once. Every day I've just been using my single Vango sizzle induction hob, it's easier to get out, doesn't take up much room, the heat is easier to control.