Jun-Yan Aftermarket Headlights

Mooncat

The Members
T6 Guru
These Jun Yan lights were bought from Van Tech who are a very helpful and friendly company to deal with.

Having used these lights for a week now, I thought I’d share my experience with you…...and have started another thread as requested by a couple of members. Some of this content may be repeated from the other thread.

The units are well finished with all the wiring being hidden away inside the unit. For fitting, you move across the formed washer from the original units (this is where they mount just behind the main grill). There is a barrel type nut adjuster on the bottom of the units that use a 19mm spanner/socket. I used this to get a good fit of the light unit to the body…...more on this later! Once fitted you notice there is much more space to do bulb changes than the original H4 units which is a bonus too (you don’t need to slide the battery or remove the top of the air filter now).

They use a 65W H9 dipped and 55W H1 main bulbs and without any coding will operate both bulbs on main beam. This probably puts all the load on the vehicle wiring to the H1 bulb so I think it is still worth doing the VCDS coding as detailed in the H4 – H7 thread. The light output is comparable with other headlights of cars I’ve overtaken/been over taken by and perfectly adequate for seeing in the dark. I never used my H4 units with halogens so cannot compare directly. Main beam is particularly good. On dipped, the cut off line is very clear and there is a nice blue tint at the cut off too which you can make out on one of the photos I’ve included. Having seen the pictures posted of the ‘Transporter HQ / Travelin Lite’ provided light units I would suggest they may have a slightly brighter dipped beam but it’s hard to tell as road surface and bulb type fitted has a strong bearing on this and all the roads around here are covered in mud which doesn’t help with reflection.

On my late August 2016 Euro 5 there are no bulb warning lights that the sellers are warning about.

The DRL has a very even light so looks similar to modern Audis (it doesn’t look like a series of LEDs which are usually on older / cheaper cars). The colour is in the white to very slightly purple range. When dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs dim so that other road users don’t have to drive into a nasty glare which can be annoying.

The LED indicators are fed via a resistor so flash at the right speed. They look better in real life than photos would show and although not a fan of LED lights, they are growing on me. My only slight criticism here is that the units don’t dim the DRL when the indicators are on. You can still see the indicator okay, it’s just something I would rather have (I know there is a thread on this forum about using Carista to do this and someone was going to work out the VCDS code…..so all is not lost yet...apart from me locating that thread again!)

There is a single manual adjuster on the back of each unit and this changes the horizontal aim of the H1 bulb. Vertical adjustment of both is through the electric motor and both lenses are moved simultaneously. This is where my only criticism of these lights comes…... with the headlight load leveller control set so the headlights are at their highest, the range of dipped beam was only about 15 meters (this is a standard T32 140 4Motion with about 10kg in the back). Contacting the supplier, what they do is adjust the vertical aim using the adjuster at the bottom of the headlight (the one I used to get a good fit of light to wing) which means you need to do this before you refit the bumper. From my basic trigonometry, I worked out I would need a 4mm gap at the bottom of where the light meets the wing to get a ‘normal’ dipped beam light distance. Obviously this will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on springs and load and mine is probably a worst case example.

A 4mm gap is actually very little and bearing mind these are aftermarket parts probably considered as acceptable, however I wanted perfect fitment and alignment so used a different solution. Removing the alignment motors is very easy, just rotate the motor slightly, pull it back and then unhook the ball of the motor from the groove of the light unit and release the electrical cable. Once you’ve done it a couple of times, you can do it in about 10 seconds, even whilst the units are fitted to the vehicle. I stripped the units down and then modified the rod that has the ball on the end so that it was 4mm longer by cutting out a short section of plastic, drilling through the ball and the rod and then fitted a coarse threaded rod to join them back up. The result is that I now have light units that fit perfectly, have correct (and manually adjustable) vertical alignment, and still have the full functionality of the load leveller inside the vehicle. I’m sure there will be motors available with a slightly longer rod too if you don’t feel as adventurous……..or just do what the fitters do and use the 19mm barrel nut before refitting the bumper.

(edited for typos)

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Thanks for the long, detailed, clear review. I’m swerving more towards these models with the LED indicator so it’s good to read that they work without issue.
 
I have just purchased these headlights as i noticed they are selling them for £420 with vat,i installed them on Friday with no problem at all ,but i was a bit disappointed in the colour of the h9 bulb it is a bit yellow if I'm honest not a bright white so i am now looking for a alternative bulb, also when on main beam they do flicker ,i phoned van tech and they suggested i installed a 55w bulb ,i am sorry i am new to the forum.
 
but i was a bit disappointed in the colour of the h9 bulb it is a bit yellow if I'm honest not a bright white so i am now looking for a alternative bulb, also when on main beam they do flicker ,i phoned van tech and they suggested i installed a 55w bulb

The bulbs they come with are just bog standard halogens. I bought some PIAA Hyper Arros and have the originals as spares. The PIAAs are slightly less yellow than standard but it was the bulb life that sold them. Those are advertised as being 55w but they are still 65W.

Regarding the flickering, is this them turning on and off fairly slowly or a high frequency flicker? I think these lights take all of the 120W current from a circuit that was designed for 55W on each side (I can't see anything in the wiring to suggest anything different) and I'm not convinced that is good engineering (I think those fitting the additional harness to the THQ / Travelin Lite units may run into a similar issue). If you have someone with VCDS close to you, give up some beer tokens and get them coded.
 
Thanks for that just ordered the bulbs and getting the coding done this week, top man.
 
Hello, I already know. I want to say more pictures. only an image with much reflected. Thank you
 
Bought a set of these. All was fine until I started the engine then dipped beam was flickering when on with main beam Was fine when dip beam only. Took mine back and had refund as they had no answer to problem other than fit lower rated bulb which defeats object of having better lights than standard.
 
Bought a set of these. All was fine until I started the engine then dipped beam was flickering when on with main beam Was fine when dip beam only. Took mine back and had refund as they had no answer to problem other than fit lower rated bulb which defeats object of having better lights than standard.

I'm pretty sure that coding them as described in the H4 - H7 thread will stop that problem. I did that as soon as I fitted mine and have no flashing issues (but didn't try them before doing that). You could have disconnected the feed inside the unit from the high beam pin to the dipped bulb but that would only have the H1s working on high beam.

Coding is the only proper way of doing this irrespective of OEM H7 or after-market, after that you need to run a relay.
 
Just had them fitted on my T6 65 reg Highline. No errors and no flickering. Must mention that I have immediately upgraded these embarrassing halogen bulbs to a xenon hid bulbs, looks a lot better. Quality of the headlight it's self is average, not the best aftermarket headlight I have came across. DRL strip has a blueish color when it's on and another downside is that you can not see the indicator light from the side.
 
Did you fit the ballast and capacitor inside the light unit?
No, ballasts etc are outside headlights as usual.

Update on my aftermarket headlights experience!
I am somewhat disappointed with their performance in the dark. The footprint of the light looks narrow . I have tried to adjust the horizontal position of the lenses but it didn't really help. See the pictures. Also wondering if it is possible to switch them to drive on the continent?
0-02-04-47031205d8138d5c9b40692a3f17de9ad8b505a87579a03a02ab651462bdbfa6_full.jpg 0-02-04-1bf10466195a2dcca5a0a833023336c87b00cadb7c08190ea337b6344db389f2_full.jpg 0-02-04-4127aa3c2cb402c59fe2c9de90621d787312dd40abc7004edc076931cddae5ac_full.jpg
 
The horizontal adjustment only does the high beam direction from what I've seen. The light pattern looks right for projector units although I do think mine has a wider pattern with the halogens fitted. If the HID arc is a few mm out compared to a normal H9 filament, it will affect the spread of the light pattern.
 
Hi. I have many doubts in installing these headlights or install the original h7. What do you recommend? thank you very much
 
Which HID kit did you fit? I recently tried a 55w Stealth H4 kit and as soon as the engine was running the lights would go off.
 
Hi. I have many doubts in installing these headlights or install the original h7. What do you recommend? thank you very much
The original H7s are actually cheaper to buy and receive positive reviews so if you have any doubt, go for those. The biggest issue with the Jun-Yan unit is the lack of manual vertical adjustment which I sorted by modifying the motors. I'm more than happy with the quality of the unit and also the light output and spread using the PIAA bulbs (never even tried the standard units).
 
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