My wife wants an awning

Yeh I’ll go for the rafter pro , I thought that was one in the picture, that was a small size, but they do a medium on that Ste that I thought was the rafter. just checking the driveway kit was the right size.
 
All of the above have now arrived, now I’ve got an awning , if I’m on EHU on a site , how do I power any stuff in the awning?, do I just run a 240 extension from the plug in the van with one of these ( see pic), or is there more that one plug to plug into in the EHU post both the van and power lead?

Hope that makes sense!

3BC812F2-6FFD-4407-8B56-53FD96B265DE.jpeg
 
All of the above have now arrived, now I’ve got an awning , if I’m on EHU on a site , how do I power any stuff in the awning?, do I just run a 240 extension from the plug in the van with one of these ( see pic), or is there more that one plug to plug into in the EHU post both the van and power lead?

Hope that makes sense!

View attachment 245112
 
All of the above have now arrived, now I’ve got an awning , if I’m on EHU on a site , how do I power any stuff in the awning?, do I just run a 240 extension from the plug in the van with one of these ( see pic), or is there more that one plug to plug into in the EHU post both the van and power lead?

Hope that makes sense!

There's usually only one plug on a EHU post so that wouldn't be any use. You'd just run a regular extension lead with a houshold 3 pin plug from the van socket to the awning.
 
I have the horrible feeling our @sipep Karl has sold up... After all that graft! Sad...
 
We have a Vango pump with a "deflate" function, but when I tried to use it on our Vango awning, the pump handle just wouldn't budge (as if it was working against one-way valve somewhere in the set-up. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Probably user error :rolleyes: but had to resort to deflating it using @Drive Wayne's method of the rolling around on the ground in an unbecoming manner.
Did you have the guage still connected?
Most probably. Is that where a one-way valve located?
Update on this... @EAN was spot-on re the gauge being the issue. Thanks mate. :thumbsup:

With the gauge removed, I can now evacuate 90% of the air with the pump (as opposed to none), but the last 10% still won't play ball and I have to complete deflation using the rolling around on the ground technique. So, better, but still not ideal.

My assumption is that the internal air pressure drops to a point where it can no longer support the structure of tube, so the tube collapses, thus trapping the air at the far side of the collapse. So, my question: does anyone have any tips for preventing/overcoming the tube collapse, so that I can fully evacuate the tube using the pump?
 
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Update on this... @EAN was spot-on re the gauge being the issue. Thanks mate. :thumbsup:

With the gauge removed, I can now evacuate 90% of the air with the pump (as opposed to none), but the last 10% still won't play ball and I have to complete deflation using the rolling around on the ground technique. So, better, but still not ideal.

My assumption is that the internal air pressure drops to a point where it can no longer support the structure of tube, so the tube collapses, thus trapping the air at the far side of the collapse. So, my question: does anyone have any tips for preventing/overcoming the tube collapse, so that I can fully evacuate the tube using the pump?
I've never gone for full evacuation because it can cause weak points in the tubes by creating creases that weren't there before. Everyone likes to see a fool rolling round on one, they always go back in the bag. We've never had a failed air beam in 10 plus years of air beam tech.
 
i use an rechargeable airpump on deflate mode - brilliant and can be used with airbeds etc making it possible to get them back to the packed size they are meant to be!
 
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My wife wants an awning.... So by proxy... I want an awning.

I don't care really what it is.. but I V a bargain
We have a Vango Kela V (low)...got it on Ebay....£350 last year. Had only been up twice so brand new, had to go and fetch it but worth it. We have used it quite a lot since an found it a fantastic addition to the unit. Easy and quick to put up and easy drive away and return....! Bought the awning rail from Stiches and Steel, a bit of a faf to install but ok....anyway would recommend the Vango. VanRex
 
I've never gone for full evacuation because it can cause weak points in the tubes by creating creases that weren't there before. Everyone likes to see a fool rolling round on one, they always go back in the bag. We've never had a failed air beam in 10 plus years of air beam tech.
Hmm, perhaps full evacuation is not what I should be aiming for, but certainly looking for better than 90%. The bag is oversized, so that's not the problem - it's that, with trapped air, the packed awning prevents my electric tailgate from consistently and fully latching (a drawback of having a rear bulkhead I guess).

A little nudge with the knee does the trick, but I'd rather be able to press the button and walk away, confident the thing will latch.

i use an rechargeable airpump on deflate mode - brilliant and can be used with airbeds etc making it possible to get them back to the packed size they are meant to be!
Yeah, got one of those, but not sure it would help - it seems the harder you try to evacuate the last of the air, the more constricted the collapse becomes.
 
My assumption is that the internal air pressure drops to a point where it can no longer support the structure of tube, so the tube collapses, thus trapping the air at the far side of the collapse. So, my question: does anyone have any tips for preventing/overcoming the tube collapse, so that I can fully evacuate the tube using the pump?
Obviously, with an air awning, as soon as you start to deflate it, the whole thing just ends up in a heap on the ground. So, I'm wondering if using a couple of legs (from a sun canopy) to prop-up the awning and maintain it's height will aid with avoiding the tube collapsing and twisting, thus, aid full deflation.

Thoughts?
 
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