OEM Wheel Bolt Torque

[Stripy]

I changed my wheels today, fronts to the rear and rears on the front diagonally (any other people still do this) .
only took me most of the day as the wheels were welded on, I'm glad I didn't have to change a wheel on the motorway!!!.

I have a standard set of Devonports does anyone know what ft lb to do the nuts up please, I have googled but with no joy.

Thanks john

 

[Rossco2608]

If you have Newton Metres on the wrench its 180 mate

 

[mmi]

180 Nm, which equals 133 lbft (please double check the conversion). And yes, I do the change once a year from front to rear, keeping them on same side, not changing the direction of rotation.

 

[Phil Blackburn]

John, how did you free the stuck wheels i’ve got the same problem and can’t shift them

 

[Tourershine]

John, how did you free the stuck wheels i’ve got the same problem and can’t shift them

I always find it best to sit on the floor, and use both feet booting from one side to the other back and forth, and they will free up. Obviously wear sensible footwear, and not big muddy boots or high heels...

I used to copper grease all my hubs, until I had an engineer come out from Pagid to inspect a set of what I assumed was faulty discs on a previous vehicle.
He gave me a tip, and said don't ever use copper grease because it encourages corrosion, so now just use a smear of normal grease, but my wheels are off at least once a week to be cleaned, so tend not to seize.

In my opinion it's always best practice to remove all your wheels every few months, because they can seize on solid, and that's not a situation you want at the side of a busy road when trying to change a tyre.

 

[Stripy]

Thanks guys

Phill as tourshine said I just had to get under it and kick the najers out of it, I did leave a very loose wheel nut on so that when the wheel did eventually come loose it didn't roll into the road or fall onto the face of the alloy.

 

[Stripy]

Oops did put copper slip on, i will change it to a grease but not for a while as I'm fed up with playing wheels at the moment.

 

[Tourershine]

Oops did put copper slip on, i will change it to a grease but not for a while as I'm fed up with playing wheels at the moment.

Mate, half of this forum is fed up with anything to do with wheels... my life is haunted by wheels and everything to do with them.

 

[Stripy]

I just went and re torque my wheels 132ftlbs or 180nm got to say that's 2 good grunts on my scale, looks like I'm going to have to put a breaker bar in, as the wheel brace supplied looks to be made of cheese.

 

[Stanners]

Having had a tyre fitter belt the bejabers out of my locking nuts to remove them yesterday, the advice he gave was, yes tighten the non lockers to 180NM, only tighten the lockers to 110NM, use the "cheese wrench" as someone put it, don't lean down on it or stand on it for the lockers.

 

[YellowHound]

I use aluminium grease around the hub centre to prevent corrosion. Don't use any on the wheel bolts.
If they are super stuck to the hub (rather than tight wheel bolts) slacken all of the wheel bolts and then drive the van a few yards - I find this will break even the most stubborn bond.

 

[Stripy]

Stanners, I have done away with my locking wheel nuts and replaced them with standard nuts ,
No more hunting for the locking wheel nut or wondering if it will chew the nut up.

 

[DXX]

Had a routine inspection service done by VW van dealer the other day, I asked if they could switch front and rear wheels when they were removed for brake inspection.
Service manager replied that the wheels don’t get removed for the inspection service. After the service I took the van to a tyre fitters and they exchanged them after beating them all off with a large dead blow sledge hammer.
The tyre fitters shared my dismay at VW dealers inspection routine, especially given that the next inspection service was scheduled for 2 years time.
The hubs were greased before the wheels were refitted.

 

[alter]

not good .... 180 only for iron wheels .., 100 nm for alloy wheels !!! ... on the hub a little copper fat, believe me, not other crap ..

 

[YellowHound]

not good .... 180 only for iron wheels .., 100 nm for alloy wheels !!! ... on the hub a little copper fat, believe me, not other crap ..

Seriously, where did you get this info?
On a mechanical level why would the torque be less for an alloy wheel?

 

[Loz]

180nm in all cases. As per the workshop manual.

 

[Shaun Witts]

If they are super stuck to the hub (rather than tight wheel bolts) slacken all of the wheel bolts and then drive the van a few yards - I find this will break even the most stubborn bond.

I lived in Germany for 17 years, and changed to winter tyres each winter. This is the best method to loosen corroded on wheels - especially if the vehicle is not stable on axle stands and kicking the hell out of the wheel causes a lot of rocking on the jack!
Loosen the wheel nuts, and leave them finger tight or even turned out half a turn. If driving a few meters doesn't free the wheel, then apply the brakes sharply whilst rolling will do it.

After a similar discussion regarding the use of copper grease and corrosion (dissimilar metal corrosion) on my motorbike forum (Triumph Trophy), I have adopted the use of dedicated brake grease for such purposes.

 

[YellowHound]

Aluminium grease?

 

[RayC]

I use 180 nm for the 2 piece OEM bolts, ally and steel

if putting after market wheels on which take single piece bolts I use 160 nm

never grease the bolts or the face of the disc/back of the wheel a tiny smear of copper grease on the hub spigot helps to stop wheels sticking on

I ditch the locking bolt they only stop the owner getting the wheels off if someone was planning on pinching wheels they will bring a set of masters or a locking bolt remover anyway

 

[YellowHound]

I'm really not sure why you'd arbitrarily reduce the clamping force of the wheel to the hub?