Oil Catch Can For Euro 6 Engines

I'd be interested to know if he does his own calibrations and if so, how he measures combustion temperature, EGT, NOx, soot etc. Normally it is just a dyno test which doesn't actually tell you anything about what is going on inside the engine.

Having seen what goes into the design of engine internals, the reliability testing and how they build engine calibrations at the engine manufacturer, I wouldn't let a tuning box or remap anywhere near an engine from Euro 4 onwards.
 
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Not meaning to disrespect anybody here with reference to who they know and what they do as there are some very good engine mappers out there.

But I have a good friend who runs a very successful tinting/wrapping business, it's well established and with a long list of local main dealers and repeat customers (me included) that use his services.

About 4 years ago he started 'mapping' engines, after a few months he told me how he could boost my Navara V6 and later my Touareg engine power and increase the mpg. I was interested to know where his mapping knowledge had suddenly appeared from as he is not at all technical, he'd struggle to wire a head-unit so his newly gained experience in remapping engines was nothing short of a miracle. I have a decent engineering background, I understand a little of what is required when you actually rewrite ecu code in order to call yourself a 'mapper'.
The short answer is that he is taking off the shelf maps, paying a licence for each map, uploading the generic map to the vehicle and then calling himself a mapper, I'd call him a tuner at very best, but in his mind he's an engine guru and has re-mapped plenty of cars with great success. He still maintains his maps are invisible and cannot be uncovered by manufacturers and worst case scenario he can put the original map back on and then be confident in his work being 100% undetectable...

ECU mapping is a bit like tattoo artists, there's several on every high street now, whereas 10 years ago there was maybe one decent artist in the whole town.
 
Most mappers will scan the ECU and then send it to a company, normally in Italy, who will then tweak it to how ever extreme you want it, then send it back to you to then flash onto the ECU.
 
Remapping seems a mucky world to me, with plenty of squabbling amongst "experts" providing the work (on other forums, thankfully), presumably because the rewards are high. Reminds me of Burger Wars. Some, it seems can offer "mileage correction" at the same time, nice.
 
I have a sludge trap fitted on a A4 1.9 TDI with 200K on the clock.
The only reason it’s fitted is because the engine ran away running on it’s own blow by sludge. The engine survived revving through the red line and I survived a high speed dodge of the other traffic while changing up and braking hard.
It cost about 20 quid plus a bit of plumbing, well worth the piece of mind with an old motor. I probably drain it after approx 800 miles, it’s nasty stuff and includes condensate, definitely better than putting it back through the engine.
Previous to installation I had drained sludge from the bottom hose on the intercooler, now there is no sludge to drain so the trap is very efficient.
The hose tails on the trap are approx 12mm bore, the connecting hoses are 19mm to reduce restriction, no further issues after 2 years installed.
 
Did anyone ever fit one of these. I plan to keep my T6 for a long time and would like to keep it reliable long term.
Any ideas appreciated
 
I still intend to fit one sometime soon.

Just deciding which to go for, the mann hummel 150 or 200 pro vent.
 
The sludge trap that I have on my old Audi A4 did not have any filter when I purchased it on ebay. I decided to fit a coil of fine copper gauze which seems to work well as there is no oil carryover in the intercooler since fitting the trap.
The sludge trap never needs opening as no filter element to change, the only maintenance is draining the sludge via a valve on the drain line, approx every 800 miles on a 200K mile engine. Takes about 10 minutes.
 
So why don't the manufacturers fit these if they are so good....is there a down side?:thumbsup:
 
A couple of reasons I guess:
1. They are trying to increase maintenance intervals, i.e. 20k miles.
1k sludge draining interval would not be considered especially if if required disposal of toxic sludge. Easier to burn it in the engine and 'disappear' into the atmosphere.
Given that some engines don't even have dipsticks manufacturers really don't want you going under the bonnet.

2. Generally it would only benefit higher mileage engines, say over 130k miles.
 
So why don't the manufacturers fit these if they are so good....is there a down side?:thumbsup:
VW implementation how to eliminate oil from crankcase breather system getting back into air intake:
  • Specifically about Transporter EU5 engines on page 13 in VW Self-Study Programme 455: 2.0l TDI engines in the T5 2010, which is available at SSP_455 EDIT: also in the Forum downloads --> SSP 455 - 2.0 Litre TDI Engines in the Volkswagen T5 2010
  • More details about the principles in general on pages 18-21 in VW Self-Study Programme 403: 2.0l TDI Engine with Common Rail Fuel Injection System, which is available at SSP_403
 
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I wonder if these would be okay, they might be a copy of the £150 one but if it works...
I have a copy like that in my Land Rover and it seems to do the job just as the expensive version...
Used to have one on my old Mk4 Golf too...again, did the job even if it 'feels' a little 'cheap'.
 
I have used a basic aluminium separator on an ancient A4 for close to a decade. The one above shows what I would regard as the drain being ‘oil return pipe’.
I definitely wouldn’t advise putting this oil back in the engine, it contains condensate and other impurities.
I’m not sure how or why it has one connection above the other, that means that catch can is purely a separator and not a separator / tank.
 
The dirty air comes in one and through a wire gauze filter in the centre. Oily residue collects in the bottom and clean(er) air goes back into the intake. I just run a pipe down from the bottom connection to a wheel arch and put an in-line tap on the end. I just drain it whenever I think about it. No smeg goes back....definitely a bad idea!
 
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