Oil Pressure warning CFCA (I know)

[Eibbor]

Hi all,

Looking for a bit of guidance (or confirmation).
I've had my van for less than 6 months. 2.0 BiTdi with 145k on it now (139k iirc when purchased). I had the oil sampled after 650 miles as the dealer said they serviced it so I had to wait for a 'good' sample. Results came back fine on the aluminium content but it showed high soot content, leading me to believe they never serviced the van. The van has the revision D cooler on it.
Anyway life got in the way and the van drives great and I forgot to service it myself. Last week I had the Oil Pressure light on, but would go off again within a second or 2. I then reminded myself about the oil potentially being very old so changed oil & filter and the light hasn't came back on since but I'm trying to make sure I'm not masking a fault so I went today and bought a pressure tester.

Engine warm and pressure at idle - 15psi
at 2000rpm - 25psi max

Reading online I'm expecting much higher pressure readings is that correct?
If so, am I on the road to a goosed engine?
When the oil was drained there was no metallic tinge to it, just very old looking.

TIA for any help.

 

[B.different]

Mine started like that for the best part of a year. It was just a flash of the oil light every so often, usually after 3-4k between oil changes. After I changed the oil, all seemed good, so I thought, until I was getting light puffs of smoke when setting off from junctions. Had to have 2 pressure tests as the first was OK, but the second was very low.. in the end i had a new engine from vw which actually works out cheaper than a rebuild! Cost me a small fortune but definitely worth doing if it's a keeper. I was in to deep to bin mine as the only things I haven't changed are the rads, gearbox and back box

 

[Eibbor]

Mine started like that for the best part of a year. It was just a flash of the oil light every so often, usually after 3-4k between oil changes. After I changed the oil, all seemed good, so I thought, until I was getting light puffs of smoke when setting off from junctions. Had to have 2 pressure tests as the first was OK, but the second was very low.. in the end i had a new engine from vw which actually works out cheaper than a rebuild! Cost me a small fortune but definitely worth doing if it's a keeper. I was in to deep to bin mine as the only things I haven't changed are the rads, gearbox and back box

Thanks for your reply. When you say pressure tests, was this oil pressure tests or compression tests?

 

[B.different]

Compression test pal. Thought it was the oil pressure switch, so I replaced that twice but didn't make no difference. I just tried all the cheap things first before admitting defeat. But if you do go the new engine route you will realise how good it was from factory. Yeah it was expensive but I don't regret doing it.

 

[mmi]

Engine warm and pressure at idle - 15psi
at 2000rpm - 25psi max

Reading online I'm expecting much higher pressure readings is that correct?

Perhaps better to rely on CFCA engine manufacturer's workshop manual, p.182

CAAC CAAB CAAC CFCA Diesel Engine workshop manual

3 Feb 2023

CAAC CAAB CAAC CFCA

• Loz
• caaa engine caab engine caac engine cfca engine manual
• VW Manuals

Test conditions
• Engine oil level OK.
• Engine oil temperature at least 80 °C

• Oil pressure at idling speed: at least 0.6 bar
• Minimum oil pressure at 2,000 rpm: at least 1.5 bar
• At higher engine speeds, the oil pressure must not exceed 5.0 bar.

 

[RobertO2023]

Low oil pressure is almost certainly an indication of impending failure. Run diags , oil change , oil pressure switch. Still the same low oil pressure ? You may get away with a rebuild but a new short motor would be a safer bet. Speak to Darkside Developments they know a lot about these engines - Good luck

 

[Eibbor]

Perhaps better to rely on CFCA engine manufacturer's workshop manual, p.182

CAAC CAAB CAAC CFCA Diesel Engine workshop manual

3 Feb 2023

CAAC CAAB CAAC CFCA

• Loz
• caaa engine caab engine caac engine cfca engine manual
• VW Manuals

Test conditions
• Engine oil level OK.
• Engine oil temperature at least 80 °C

• Oil pressure at idling speed: at least 0.6 bar
• Minimum oil pressure at 2,000 rpm: at least 1.5 bar
• At higher engine speeds, the oil pressure must not exceed 5.0 bar.

Now this changes things a bit, and actually brings my results in to the green.

Do VIP members get access to manuals? that manual would be very handy.

I will test again tomorrow just to be 100% of the results. But if this looks ok, I'm now asking myself why it came on in the first place? Could it have been really old, shitty oil? Oil was 2/3 up the dipstick before changing.

I've almost got a distrust of the van due to its reputation, but I'm semi-confident I don't have the common issue with the CFCA engine

 

[RobertO2023]

I hope you don’t have the issues associated with CFCA . It would be unusual to have one of these engines that didn’t have problems . My 5.1 BiTDi which I had from new and FMDSH had no end of issues. Run as many tests as you . A compression test will show the state of the bore wear.

 

[Eibbor]

I hope you don’t have the issues associated with CFCA . It would be unusual to have one of these engines that didn’t have problems . My 5.1 BiTDi which I had from new and FMDSH had no end of issues. Run as many tests as you . A compression test will show the state of the bore wear.

Thanks, I'll be sure to get a compression test done ASAP

 

[mmi]

Do VIP members get access to manuals? that manual would be very handy.

Yes, the workshop manuals is one the VIP member benefits.

VIP Membership

VIP Membership Information

www.t6forum.com

why it came on in the first place?

Could be a sticky oil pressure switch or simply it's threshold has aged outside of the specification. They are not exactly precision instruments even new.
I would replace it and see how it goes.

I'm semi-confident I don't have the common issue with the CFCA engine

The van has the revision D cooler on it.

D-revision cooler is a good thing

 

[Eibbor]

Yes, the workshop manuals is one the VIP member benefits.

VIP Membership

VIP Membership Information

www.t6forum.com

Could be a sticky oil pressure switch or simply it's threshold has aged outside of the specification. They are not exactly precision instruments even new.
I would replace it and see how it goes.
View attachment 282282



D-revision cooler is a good thing

**goes to become VIP**

I'll do all necessary tests and change the switch and hopefully convince myself the van wont blow up on me

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

If your compressions and other parameters are fine it would be a good time to read up on EGR blanking threads.
Lots of good info on here.
I have been running the EGR blanked with a Tafmet emulater instead of mapping for over a year now and its good to know that the corroding EGR can't trash your engine.

 

[Eibbor]

If your compressions and other parameters are fine it would be a good time to read up on EGR blanking threads.
Lots of good info on here.
I have been running the EGR blanked with a Tafmet emulater instead of mapping for over a year now and its good to know that the corroding EGR can't trash your engine.

That's just remembered me, I actually have the Tafmet kit and when I changed the oil last week, I plugged the kit in hoping that would help. Just need to fit the blanking plates if everything checks out

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

That's just remembered me, I actually have the Tafmet kit and when I changed the oil last week, I plugged the kit in hoping that would help. Just need to fit the blanking plates if everything checks out

Fitting the blanks is a fun job! Good luck with it. When you inevitably drop one of the bolts its probably going to be in the fan shroud!!!!
Oh and while your at it don't dislodge the bonnet release cable then slam the bonnet closed.....

 

[Eibbor]

Anyone that's replied have a compression tester they'd recommend? The one I have is too fat to fit down the hole (that's what she said). Trying to get a loan of one of some guys I know but coming up short