P24A8 - EGR Cooler Coolant Pump Performance/Stuck Off
- Thread starter alexgeary28
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Remotely difficult to say about the tests - good thing that something happens...
I'm not sure if I captured right noise from the video - was there also cars on the background setting off?
P24A800 - EGR Cooler Coolant Pump Performance/Stuck Off - static
The "static" suggests it's more or less often failing. Also frequency counter is a good indicator - though often the counters advance only once per ignition cycle.
P245700 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Efficiency Below Threshold
Possibly just a spin-off from P24A800 (or P040100, or their combination)
V188 Charge air cooling pump
V400 Pump for exhaust gas recirculation cooler
Apologies for dragging up an old thread. Can anyone tell me if this is the EGR coolant pump? Its the only thing that's making a noise when I run the output test above. Although, it makes noise as soon as I turn the ignition on.
Picture below is through the right wheel arch looking up, near the bottom of the engine bay
CXGB 102 engine
Annoyingly can't see a part number on it.
Picture below is through the right wheel arch looking up, near the bottom of the engine bay
CXGB 102 engine
Annoyingly can't see a part number on it.
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Following as I’m still living with this on our t6
I was too. Until today. For us it's thrown the MIL light on, on MOT day, and the fault won't stay cleared.
6 - Auxiliary pump for heating - V488
16 - Pump for exhaust gas recirculation cooler - V400-
For details please check page 182 on Workshop Manual in downloads:
T6 - 4-cylinder common rail engine CXEB CXFA CXGA CXGB CXHA CXGC CXHB
Workshop manual for the 4-cylinder common rail engine CXEB CXFA CXGA CXGB CXHA CXGC CXHB
What’s your plan out of interest? Take it off see if owt can be done with it or replace? I’m pretty sure I’ll need to do the same!
I'm going to replace it. I had a quick butchers earlier. I can't see any obvious wiring damage. The pins on the plug look ok. Don't have time to remove it and take it apart. The pump doesn't run during the test mentioned above. Essentially it's 3 screws, 2 clamps and some replacement coolant.
I'm using a cheapo second hand pump off a van that's done 40k miles, just to get me through the MOT. So hopefully I can still make it to Camperjam this weekend.
Cool well if it clears it up will you come back and let us know?
Pretty sure I've fixed it by replacing the EGR coolant pump. £49. No MIL light. No faults after starting and running 4 times. With the old pump installed the MIL light would come back on after 2nd start up.
Great stuff easy to do?
Generally speaking yes. It's a bit of a faff on a driveway not jacked up etc. But depends how nifty/confident you are working on a vehicle. And what tools you've got.
It's an electrical connector, 3 screws and two (really awkward) clamps. The thing I struggled with is stopping the entire contents of the coolant system emptying on my face. The hose clamps I had were dog s**t. I used mole grips on the inlet and outlet hoses to stem the flow of coolant out the system.
Looking at the workshop manual @mmi linked above, if the system empties, (I think) you need to fill it under pressure with special tools you'd find at a garage. I over filled the expansion tank, loosened the clamps, and quickly whipped the old pump off and got the new one in as quickly as I could. That way it didn't completely empty. I got wet.
I work on commercial aircraft, not cars. Take everything I say with a pinch of salt!
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I’m pretty handy done engines and boxes etc got the gear and a little bit idea might swap ours see how we get on!
Might aswell. Save a small fortune. I unplugged the electrical connector and connected it to the new one before I removed anything else. It ran as soon as I connected it (with ignition on). That way you know it's the pump. Wouldn't run it dry for too long though.
Don’t suppose you have a part number for it?
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