Portable Solar panel confusion

@Dellmassive - per above you were massively helpful - I have ploughed my way through your post - just got one query - and apols if really dumb question

Attached are a couple of pics from my leisure battery - theory is just connect crocodile clips running from the controller to the terminals on leisure battery - i.e. the gold terminals?? But per pics attached terminals seem to have the silver clamp around them - so now a little unsure..? Or have I got it completely wrong!?

There's some really good prices on Dokio ones at the mo - but appreciate needs to be fused, so would likely order something like the Renogy just to eliminate any risk!

Thanks in advance, Phil.

View attachment 246530

View attachment 246531
im not a fan of those quick release connector's.

the red and blue things.

personally i would replace those for better bolt on battery terminals,

or unbolt the battery turrets, then use bolt down ring terminals.. .

but looks like its close to a seat? - is so id get a cover for the terminals or a full battery cover.


+++++++++++++++







1718644348043.png

++++++++++++



you can use the solar panel clamp ons.

but if the battery is under the seat, you may be better off fitting a short quick-connect cable, so its plug and play.


maybe like this with a fuse?






1718644522192.png


or this?







1718644571043.png

+++++++++++++++


or you can connect any of the above via your 12v sub fuse box.





1718644669262.png
 
Last edited:
I'm probably a bit late to this party, but recently bought the Dokio 100w foldable panel, and also a "Kuncan 25FT Sae to Sae 2 Pin Extension Cable DC Power 16awg Heavy Duty Battery Quick Disconnect/Connect Wire Harness with Sae Connectors with Dust Cap…" to make sure there was a decent length of cable to connect to the battery inside the van.

Problems followed, as I'd taken advice that the Dokio VOC was borderline too high for my existing CTEK D250SE, so I added a Victron Smart Solar 75/15 to the system. I connected this to the leisure battery, and Bluetooth suggested all was well. However, connecting the leads from the Dokio gave nothing for the solar.

Much head scratching later, I came to the conclusion it was suffering reverse polarity. Luckily the Victron is protected from this, although much angst was caused before I found this info.

Changing the connection on the Victron (red + to - terminal,and black - to + terminal and all was fine. Happy days.... although I have cut and re- joined the cable so the right colour connections are going into the Victron.

I've just tried the PWM controller with the 25ft extension, and the Dokio lead with the croc clips on the car battery, and once again the polarity was wrong. Snip snip, and re-crimp, and all is well.

Moral of this story is, always use a multi meter to check polarity before connecting the Dokio panel to the charge controller.
 
I'm probably a bit late to this party, but recently bought the Dokio 100w foldable panel, and also a "Kuncan 25FT Sae to Sae 2 Pin Extension Cable DC Power 16awg Heavy Duty Battery Quick Disconnect/Connect Wire Harness with Sae Connectors with Dust Cap…" to make sure there was a decent length of cable to connect to the battery inside the van.

Problems followed, as I'd taken advice that the Dokio VOC was borderline too high for my existing CTEK D250SE, so I added a Victron Smart Solar 75/15 to the system. I connected this to the leisure battery, and Bluetooth suggested all was well. However, connecting the leads from the Dokio gave nothing for the solar.

Much head scratching later, I came to the conclusion it was suffering reverse polarity. Luckily the Victron is protected from this, although much angst was caused before I found this info.

Changing the connection on the Victron (red + to - terminal,and black - to + terminal and all was fine. Happy days.... although I have cut and re- joined the cable so the right colour connections are going into the Victron.

I've just tried the PWM controller with the 25ft extension, and the Dokio lead with the croc clips on the car battery, and once again the polarity was wrong. Snip snip, and re-crimp, and all is well.

Moral of this story is, always use a multi meter to check polarity before connecting the Dokio panel to the charge controller.
Dellmassive has provided me with a tonne of info - as I'm so naive / lacking in electrical knowledge still not 100% clear.

If I'm being honest all the various connections etc are still a little above my head and I'm worried if I mess around could do some damage.

About as good as it gets for me is I managed to disconnect quick release - so leaves terminals free to connect solar panel. But then fridge is disconnected - no doubt can all be connected simultaneously but I'm not clever enough for that lol! Then I read comments such as yours and reaffirms prob should just leave alone lol.
 
Dellmassive has provided me with a tonne of info - as I'm so naive / lacking in electrical knowledge still not 100% clear.

If I'm being honest all the various connections etc are still a little above my head and I'm worried if I mess around could do some damage.

About as good as it gets for me is I managed to disconnect quick release - so leaves terminals free to connect solar panel. But then fridge is disconnected - no doubt can all be connected simultaneously but I'm not clever enough for that lol! Then I read comments such as yours and reaffirms prob should just leave alone lol.
I've read through a lot of Dellmassive's threads on "how he did it", and will readily admit a lot of the technical stuff goes way over my head, and a grey mist descends over my eyes. It's not helped when I have the sort of memory usually known to goldfish.

Having said that, the more I can understand about the systems I have the better, as things always seem to go wrong when you're in the middle of nowhere without a phone.

I make loads of mistakes along the way, some very expensive ones, but as they say, every little helps. Good luck sorting your systems out. I'm sure you'll get there before too long.
 
Back
Top