I’m confident the cables from the panel are long enough to reach where I’m putting the MPPT.
Can I just cut off the MC4 connectors and take the cables straight into the MPPT ?
Mmmm maybe they aren’t.
Got a link to an Anderson plug?
Leisure power upgrade
- Thread starter The Flying Scotsman
- Start date
Can I just cut off the MC4 connectors and take the cables straight into the MPPT ?
Mmmm maybe they aren’t.
Got a link to an Anderson plug?
Yes, cut them off right next to the MC4. If long enough then just bare the ends and into the MPPT (or the isolator if you are having one - I’d recommend having one). If too short then into a suitable connector (MC4, Anderson etc) then on to the MPPT/isolator using normal cable. Link to Anderson below (Dellmassive uses these lots):
50A Anderson - Simply Split
Yeah that sounds good @ginkster - the only possible downside with that would be easily swapping out the panel if needed but you'd just disconnect from the isolator and feed back through.
FYI @The Flying Scotsman I believe the cable length is 90cm on each of the leads, the box on the bottom faces forward and it's inset a bit.
I've got the panel MC4 connectors to a 1m extension to another MC4 by the tailgate then 6m of cable to my isolator/MPPT under the passenger seat.
FYI @The Flying Scotsman I believe the cable length is 90cm on each of the leads, the box on the bottom faces forward and it's inset a bit.
I've got the panel MC4 connectors to a 1m extension to another MC4 by the tailgate then 6m of cable to my isolator/MPPT under the passenger seat.
I thought about panel replacement also. So I’ve order 3m of pv cable with the MC4 connectors on it and will leave the panels connections tied up underneath the panel.
I've stuck my solar pair isolator in the top of the wardrobe where the extended panel cables go over the top bed hinge and drop into the wardrobe.
There's a bit of farting about when going from one end to the other of the van while working on the leisure setup but it does mean the solar is isolated where it enters the living area or effectively where it comes into the building which is convention, if it helps I've fused this feed at the leisure battery end though so I don't listen to myself.
There's a bit of farting about when going from one end to the other of the van while working on the leisure setup but it does mean the solar is isolated where it enters the living area or effectively where it comes into the building which is convention, if it helps I've fused this feed at the leisure battery end though so I don't listen to myself.
Couple questions.
What size of fuse does the Ablemail need ?
Also I’m not convinced the roof gland is going to take 2 x 6mm cables through it. It’s a good bit thinner wires going through it the now.
Is there a different nozzle I can buy for it or will it need replaced with a double one ?
That’s absolutely everything here now.
Just need to pluck up enough balls to get stuck in about it now. Biggest hassle will running the power cable from the starter battery and mounting the solar panel.
I’m not sure when I’m going to start as don’t want my van out of action as I’m off in it most weekends.
What size of fuse does the Ablemail need ?
Also I’m not convinced the roof gland is going to take 2 x 6mm cables through it. It’s a good bit thinner wires going through it the now.
Is there a different nozzle I can buy for it or will it need replaced with a double one ?
That’s absolutely everything here now.
Just need to pluck up enough balls to get stuck in about it now. Biggest hassle will running the power cable from the starter battery and mounting the solar panel.
I’m not sure when I’m going to start as don’t want my van out of action as I’m off in it most weekends.
A 5a fuse will be plenty for the Ablemail, it only sends a couple of amps for a few seconds. But, I don't think midi fuses go that low - so long as the fuse is below the rating of the cable, it's fine. 2mm can take 25a so a 20a should be good.
Break the job up into bite sized portions so you don't get overwhelmed plus don't rip stuff out if you can put the new wiring in alongside the existing setup.
I reckon a twin stuffing gland (nozzles) plate for your new fatter solar pair, taking two cables through a single stuffing gland is a bit shonky as the gasket inside the gland can't seal properly against the figure of eight shape presented by the two cables so will let moisture past and into the roof.
I'll second your misgivings with the solar panel though, purely because with my two Renogy panels it's a bit of a constant battle to keep the bloddy things stuck on the roof as either the panels or the fibreglass of the poptop take it in turns to shrug off the adhesive which so far has been Tigerseal, CT1 and Sticks like #@&£... an ongoing wrestle.
I reckon a twin stuffing gland (nozzles) plate for your new fatter solar pair, taking two cables through a single stuffing gland is a bit shonky as the gasket inside the gland can't seal properly against the figure of eight shape presented by the two cables so will let moisture past and into the roof.
I'll second your misgivings with the solar panel though, purely because with my two Renogy panels it's a bit of a constant battle to keep the bloddy things stuck on the roof as either the panels or the fibreglass of the poptop take it in turns to shrug off the adhesive which so far has been Tigerseal, CT1 and Sticks like #@&£... an ongoing wrestle.
Yeah I'd agree a double gland is the best bet. With your solar panel attaching issues, I'm so glad I went for a roof rack - it's not an option with most pop tops but mine was a relatively simple fixing (still took time to make the brackets mind you) - but it gives me complete freedom to remove the panel with just 8x nuts to undo, if I fancy having a roof tent next year, for instance.
If you want a neat double gland look at Scanstrut. As long as the hole in the roof is less than 1” diameter it will fit once you’ve removed the old one and the sealant. A quality bit of kit and 100% waterproof.
If you are looking at adhesive/sealant you can’t go wrong with Sikaflex. I used 552 and it’s not coming off unless it’s physically cut. There are many different types of Simaflex but make sure it has a bit of flex when cured and is UV resistant.
If you are looking at adhesive/sealant you can’t go wrong with Sikaflex. I used 552 and it’s not coming off unless it’s physically cut. There are many different types of Simaflex but make sure it has a bit of flex when cured and is UV resistant.
I did a test fit of my massive solar panel.
I’m delighted with my choice of mounts and how they sit on the roof. They sit half an inch in from the outer raised sections on the pop top.
The panel still sits back enough from the front so should be fine for wind resistance and hopefully won’t prevent the roof going up itself.
I’ve drawn around the feet so can fit the mounts and have it ready for the panel just to sit on and screw on.
I’m going to bore a couple holes in each of the front mounts and buy stainless steel bolts and bolt as well as seal down these 2. The rest I will just key the gel top coating on the pop top and seal them down. Using silkaflex 552.
I’m delighted with my choice of mounts and how they sit on the roof. They sit half an inch in from the outer raised sections on the pop top.
The panel still sits back enough from the front so should be fine for wind resistance and hopefully won’t prevent the roof going up itself.
I’ve drawn around the feet so can fit the mounts and have it ready for the panel just to sit on and screw on.
I’m going to bore a couple holes in each of the front mounts and buy stainless steel bolts and bolt as well as seal down these 2. The rest I will just key the gel top coating on the pop top and seal them down. Using silkaflex 552.
Looks tidy. You can get boots with really neat and low profile nuts for inside the roof. I’ll look to see if I can find them again.
Have you considered a layer of PPF on the roof and attach to that? Makes it easier to remove the feet if you ever need to change panel and leaves no damage.
Edit: found them! Not sure if they sell them separately but you could ask:
Thanks I will check them out.
I plan on making the feet permanently fixed to the pop top and use self tappers to screw the panel to the feet.
So if the panel does ever fail I can just unscrew the panel from the feet and fit a new panel.
Assuming you get a panel exactly the same size. Are there standard sizes for the rigid panels?
I’m not sure but would buy another victron one hopefully the same.
Hopefully never have the issue.
Durability was the main reason I went for a rigid panel.
Started emptying my loft. Solar panels getting fitted on Monday.View attachment 255489
Like this one?
I only had the one RE MX 18 fed by a JL 1000/1 but I've still got it, the 3 way components front stage, Pioneer 5 volt HU, Focal 4 channel amps... I was 40s and deaf on Talk Audio about twenty yrs ago now I'm 60s and no bumping anymorejust can't part with some memories!
Used some of my 0 guage from the Roamer positive post to the battery isolator and from the negative post to the leisure shunt.
So I dug out my 18” subs.
I had these bad boys running at half an ohm.
Pepsi can for scale.
Cerwin Vega Strokers, proper old school and there's no substitute for displacement but even a decent sealed box for two of these bad boys would be huge unless maybe face to face in an isobarik setup?
Decent my advanced years I was late to car audio and came in when brands like Adire Brahmas and Beyond Audio with their Inhumans were dead cool and rare with brands like Digital Design, Resonant Engineering, JL and Kicker being more widely available
My single RE MX18 in a sealed box filled the back of our Zafira just like the 13W7 in its 7 cube slot ported box had filled the Saxo boot... the Saxo definitely rumbled lower than the MX though and would set off early noughties car alarms but that was down to the port and cabin gain of a small hatchback.
Decent my advanced years I was late to car audio and came in when brands like Adire Brahmas and Beyond Audio with their Inhumans were dead cool and rare with brands like Digital Design, Resonant Engineering, JL and Kicker being more widely available
My single RE MX18 in a sealed box filled the back of our Zafira just like the 13W7 in its 7 cube slot ported box had filled the Saxo boot... the Saxo definitely rumbled lower than the MX though and would set off early noughties car alarms but that was down to the port and cabin gain of a small hatchback.
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