Leisure power upgrade

Looking better. Personally I wired the AMT differently and just went direct to the Orion as per the instructions. Less cable and connections. You could certainly do that with the neg to save routing that to the chassis.

You don’t need the fused cable for the ip65 now as the one you have fitted is fused via the busbar - maybe save it for use on other vehicles.

Make sure you have the little crossover bar from mega to the midis on the correct end - the end the cable from the isolator comes in.
Thanks.
I had the wires from the AMT going directly into the Orion originally but the black plastic cover didn’t like the extra wires being there and didn’t close right so I changed it. The earth will go to the earth busbar. It’s arriving soon.
I’ve ordered that fused charger wire and will probably use it for the extra length so it’s easier to plug it in.
And bar in fused busbar is in correct position.
My smart shunt has arrived. I’m not delighted about all the wires tied together but they have special pins on one end and the fuse on the other so I couldn’t trim them down.
The earth cables are incomplete until I get the earth busbar.
The big earth cable top right goes to the LB and the other one at the other side will go to the chassis.

IMG_6621.jpeg
 
Fair enough. That cover is different to the older 30a version I have. :thumbsup:
The earth busbar should be here in the next hour. So I’m looking forward to fitting it to the board.
The MPPT is on its way also but will live in the cupboard at the back next to the Sargent.
The PV isolation switches will be in there also.
So most of work left will be in mounting the solar panel and then running the power cable to the starter battery.
Think I’m going to attempt running the cable for the reversing camera I got when I upgraded my head unit at the same time.
 
running the power cable to the starter battery.
Think I’m going to attempt running the cable for the reversing camera I got when I upgraded my head unit at the same time.
Unfortunately that runs in the opposite direction! ;) I’ve got a reversing camera to fit too but just can’t be arsed! Not bothered about bringing the cable through the cabin, it’s the tailgate and reversing light connection that is a bit of a pita.
 
That’s the big MPPT arrived and I’m not sure what size of power cable I need for it or what size of fuse ?
I need to attach the Sargent to my fused busbar and I’m not sure what size of fuse to use for that either?
The Sargent has its own breakers and fuses for everything that’s attached to it like lights, pump fridge etc. so everything has its own fuse in there.
Thats the solar panel mounts arrived and the damaged panel is meant to be swapped over today also.
Think its just some PV cable and some fuses left to buy now.
 
That’s the big MPPT arrived and I’m not sure what size of power cable I need for it or what size of fuse ?
I need to attach the Sargent to my fused busbar and I’m not sure what size of fuse to use for that either?
The Sargent has its own breakers and fuses for everything that’s attached to it like lights, pump fridge etc. so everything has its own fuse in there.
Thats the solar panel mounts arrived and the damaged panel is meant to be swapped over today also.
Think its just some PV cable and some fuses left to buy now.
You're using 6mm PV cable to the panel, aren't you? Use the same size for the cables to/from the MPPT, fuse should be according to the manual - probably 40a

MPPT 100/30, correct?

For the Sargent, add up all your 12v loads if everything was turned on at the same time, and it's probably under 30 or 40a, then wire and fuse accordingly. The fuse on the distribution box will be for that short length from the box to your Sargent - so if you use 6mm, then fuse at 40a (6mm capable of 50a).
 
6:00mm2 would normally be 30A and given that a lot of the cable advertised as copper on eBay and Amazon is actually copper clad aluminium so slightly higher resistivity and reduced current capacity compared to copper only conductors.
I ran a 6:00mm2 copper back from the under seat battery to the wardrobe Sargent EC160 with a 30A fuse at the battery end.
 
You're using 6mm PV cable to the panel, aren't you? Use the same size for the cables to/from the MPPT, fuse should be according to the manual - probably 40a

MPPT 100/30, correct?

For the Sargent, add up all your 12v loads if everything was turned on at the same time, and it's probably under 30 or 40a, then wire and fuse accordingly. The fuse on the distribution box will be for that short length from the box to your Sargent - so if you use 6mm, then fuse at 40a (6mm capable of 50a).
6:00mm2 would normally be 30A and given that a lot of the cable advertised as copper on eBay and Amazon is actually copper clad aluminium so slightly higher resistivity and reduced current capacity compared to copper only conductors.
I ran a 6:00mm2 copper back from the under seat battery to the wardrobe Sargent EC160 with a 30A fuse at the battery end.
Thanks guys.
I will use 6mm cable for power wires for the 100/30 controller and a 40A fuse for that.
I’m just using the existing wire that comes from the Sargent and think I will just use a 40A for it.
Here’s my fuses in the Sargent. You think a 40A will be big enough?

IMG_6603.jpeg
 
You're using 6mm PV cable to the panel, aren't you? Use the same size for the cables to/from the MPPT, fuse should be according to the manual - probably 40a

MPPT 100/30, correct?

For the Sargent, add up all your 12v loads if everything was turned on at the same time, and it's probably under 30 or 40a, then wire and fuse accordingly. The fuse on the distribution box will be for that short length from the box to your Sargent - so if you use 6mm, then fuse at 40a (6mm capable of 50a).
Is this the correct pv cable I need?
I know it’s 6mm. Will need red and black
 
Yeah that should be fine, PV cable is just regular 6mm automotive cable but with extra insulation and shielding due to UV etc. Make sure you have the MC4 connectors.
Are the MC4 connectors needed for attaching onto the connector that goes through the roof?
As I’ve already got a solar panel on the roof a small flexi. So was hoping to use the one that’s already there.

IMG_6607.jpeg
Will I need other connectors for the rigid panel ?
 
You only need proper PV cable for the outside as it’s UV protected. For the inside runs it’s a bit of a pain as it’s much stiffer than normal PVC cable so I’d recommend standard 6mm2 inside.
Ok that’s great as I’m ordering 6mn black and red normal cable for going from the MPPT to the fused busbar.
I’m I just as well order a meter of black pv cable to use for the small run between that fin connector and the panel?
 
Are the MC4 connectors needed for attaching onto the connector that goes through the roof?
As I’ve already got a solar panel on the roof a small flexi. So was hoping to use the one that’s already there.

View attachment 256173
Will I need other connectors for the rigid panel ?
Just MC4 connectors, they're pre attached on the panel. So you'll need to feed your other cable through that gland, or attach MC4 directly to the existing cable. You can get PV cables with mc4 connectors pre attached.

You only need proper PV cable for the outside as it’s UV protected. For the inside runs it’s a bit of a pain as it’s much stiffer than normal PVC cable so I’d recommend standard 6mm2 inside.
Yeah that's a good shout, I did mine with PV cables all the way but needed this stiffness to feed through my headliner.
 
Does your panel have fly leads already attached? If so are they long enough to get through the gland or even into the van? Personally, I’d aim to get any connections either under the poptop or in the van mainly for aesthetic reasons. Why have bulky connections visible on the roof when they can be hidden away (and protected too).

Edit: if they have MC4 connectors already attached you will need to chop them off to get them through the gland. Crimping new ones is easy and they are cheap.
 
Does your panel have fly leads already attached? If so are they long enough to get through the gland or even into the van? Personally, I’d aim to get any connections either under the poptop or in the van mainly for aesthetic reasons. Why have bulky connections visible on the roof when they can be hidden away (and protected too).

Edit: if they have MC4 connectors already attached you will need to chop them off to get them through the gland. Crimping new ones is easy and they are cheap.
Just checked and it has the MC4 connectors on the panel leads. And they are long enough to get inside the van
IMG_6626.jpeg
 
Just checked and it has the MC4 connectors on the panel leads. And they are long enough to get inside the van
View attachment 256176
Winner. You don’t even need MC4 connectors if the connections are safely inside the van. You could use an Anderson plug (or similar) instead as long as it is suitably rated. MC4 are surprisingly bulky.

You also won’t need any PV cable and can just use standard 6mm2 inside.
 
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