Preparing for flooring. Advice needed.

sipep

Senior Member
T6 Guru
Special thank you to @AJCConversions for the advice last weekend.. carpeting complete.. now I am moving onto the flooring


I am preparing for my floor. I've got some hammerite for various screw holes in my floor. Can I ask, should I fill the archer holes , if so can you suggest a product.

I am going to cut some buttons from my existing 9mm ply and get some brand new 12mm.

I have spoken to a conversion company, they don't use thermal liner 6m.. mentioned some silver bubble stuff... which I guess is about the laminate flooring underlay.

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when i did my floor, i sorted the holes with a bit of rust preventer and then i stuck down my batons with sikaflex, i then just put sound deadening sheets in where i could and then i put sikaflex on top of the batons and just dropped the floor on top. weighted it down with anything i could get my hands on.

didnt bother with any insulation or foil as heat rises and tbh most the floor is covered by the bed or units anyway.
 
I just sound proofed my floor with Dodo DEADN once the battens were down. It may look weird the fact I've put DEADN on the battens too but its to keep the same height all the way through from floor to top of ridges

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Heat doesn't rise, hot air will rise if it can because it's buoyant, hence hot air balloons.

Not just pedantic physics (OK it is a bit) as if you have a good 5°C blow under your van over exposed metal floor that's going to chill it pretty well and any air near it. Heating is going to be blown air (van heating, 240v fan heater, diesel heater) so that will rise and not stay in contact much with the floor.

I think you need enough to make sure the floor isn't cold, because it's going to be cooled by the outside airflow and not well warmed by your heating. Good solid ply and carpet may well be enough but now is the easy time to give yourself a bit more, just be mindful of trapping water from damp air against the metal/ply in the underfloor area.
 
Heat doesn't rise, hot air will rise if it can because it's buoyant, hence hot air balloons.

Not just pedantic physics (OK it is a bit) as if you have a good 5°C blow under your van over exposed metal floor that's going to chill it pretty well and any air near it. Heating is going to be blown air (van heating, 240v fan heater, diesel heater) so that will rise and not stay in contact much with the floor.

I think you need enough to make sure the floor isn't cold, because it's going to be cooled by the outside airflow and not well warmed by your heating. Good solid ply and carpet may well be enough but now is the easy time to give yourself a bit more, just be mindful of trapping water from damp air against the metal/ply in the underfloor area.
So.. I am not 100% sure what you are saying in terms of advice.. I have my old 9mm floor for battons, which I will CT1 in place. Then which? Thermal liner or just 12 mm ply wood..
 
In my experience of many months of winter in the van with a good heater it will be 25 degC at the top and 3 degC on the floor. If you’ve ever lived in an old style caravan in winter it’s no different.
6mm of anything isn’t going to make much difference. It’s why wooly socks were invented.
 
So.. I am not 100% sure what you are saying in terms of advice.. I have my old 9mm floor for battons, which I will CT1 in place. Then which? Thermal liner or just 12 mm ply wood..
I've had good results with the proper building grade foil insulation (I used this from Wickes) in lining a garden shed which I need to heat above freezing as it has live steam models in, since doing it mostly doesn't need heating beyond the dehumidifier that's keeping it dry.

I've used the spare bits to line the coolbox we use in the XC70 and the coolbox in the Caravelle kitchen pod and even a single layer significantly increases the performance of both.

It's not magically going to be 100mm of kingspan but if you have the space and you're not going to use sound deadening in it a roll of that will help. I wouldn't bother with the unbranded shiny bubble wrap though, get decent stuff if you're going to do it.
 
I've had good results with the proper building grade foil insulation (I used this from Wickes) in lining a garden shed which I need to heat above freezing as it has live steam models in, since doing it mostly doesn't need heating beyond the dehumidifier that's keeping it dry.

I've used the spare bits to line the coolbox we use in the XC70 and the coolbox in the Caravelle kitchen pod and even a single layer significantly increases the performance of both.

It's not magically going to be 100mm of kingspan but if you have the space and you're not going to use sound deadening in it a roll of that will help. I wouldn't bother with the unbranded shiny bubble wrap though, get decent stuff if you're going to do it.
I'll grab a pack of that stuff you have linked from Wickes.
 
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