RCD330+ Headunit
- Thread starter Jimbobadini
- Start date
is ign live and non ign live mixed up you think?
im on with putting in t6, have the wiring convertor and just on with sorting the rear camera which having got factory one i just need to fit the blue connector block out of the original in to the new...space for it..
plus the green/brown connector block...anyone know what this is for?
im on with putting in t6, have the wiring convertor and just on with sorting the rear camera which having got factory one i just need to fit the blue connector block out of the original in to the new...space for it..
plus the green/brown connector block...anyone know what this is for?
Just bit the bullet and ordered one of these. I’ll be dismantling it to fit a rear usb and also wiring in a line level converter to run it through an amp, in addition to connecting in my switchable front and rear cameras. I have too many projects on the go so will have to declare “to-do list bankruptcy” and write some off to make way for this 
im just on with cameras and trying to restore phone functionality to original dash display
can you share more on that if possible mate? two wires wrong way round for? we oughta do a mini diagram for this lot to help each other out....i have coming a lead that extends both blue plug and green plug so that it matches my converter quadlock adaptor so in theory i have made the extension wiring all the same length and all plugs covered bar the aerial/dab ones that are now surplus.
yeah sure that would be good if pos...i bought these two lots of adaptors for mine....
Rcd330 VW T6 Caddy Mk4 Wiring Adapter | eBay
and then to sort the blue and green....this...(i know a bunchof these wires will not be used...) so this sorts out them all being same length....
Most Plug Extension 2x 12 24 Pin Contacts Quadlock Adapter Blue Green 4250800615423 | eBay
theres some kind of theory here..lol..hoping i can sort and share...
thanks chris
Rcd330 VW T6 Caddy Mk4 Wiring Adapter | eBay
and then to sort the blue and green....this...(i know a bunchof these wires will not be used...) so this sorts out them all being same length....
Most Plug Extension 2x 12 24 Pin Contacts Quadlock Adapter Blue Green 4250800615423 | eBay
theres some kind of theory here..lol..hoping i can sort and share...
thanks chris
bigwig74
Member
They could be different as I bought mine from audio tech direct but the wire should all do the same job, from what I can gather the blue plug is for reversing camera/sensors and the microphone and the green plug is for the usb. So on the 1st pic there’s two orange wires for the CAN , they just needed to be changed with each other
Yes just to clarify
8 cables on left are all speakers
Large red/yellow and the black cable are power supply
2 x orange cables are Can high and low
Green block - 2 wires are 5v & 0v for usb (power not data, the data is handled through a 4 pin fakra connector separately)
Blue block - 2 wires are for rear camera (pins 6 & 12)
8 cables on left are all speakers
Large red/yellow and the black cable are power supply
2 x orange cables are Can high and low
Green block - 2 wires are 5v & 0v for usb (power not data, the data is handled through a 4 pin fakra connector separately)
Blue block - 2 wires are for rear camera (pins 6 & 12)
ok so im going to be dumb here...and i obviously need to take mine out and take pic of wire situation....swapping the two can wires does....?
when i get my next wiring it will be good to get the extra functionality
its good to be able to share and sort this between ourselves..thanks!
when i get my next wiring it will be good to get the extra functionality
its good to be able to share and sort this between ourselves..thanks!
righty ho...couple of quick pics my end...
thoughts....
thoughts....
Mine arrived today, won't be fitting till the weekend but I connected up a 40 to 52 pin quadlock adapter, wired in an RCA plug to the camera input for using my non-VW camera, and identified and labelled all the wires in the loom with the help of the pinout from the forum downloads section.
I have a question though, it appears there is no input for a reverse trigger, I'm assuming it gets this information via the CAN bus. Now this is fine for the reversing camera, but I want to be able to force it to switch to camera input via a switch so I can use my front camera too. Feeding the correct camera (depending on which way I'm moving) to the RCA is handled by my camera system, I just need to force the headunit to switch to the video input. Is there any way of doing this or am I going to have to go into the headunit menu and select the input each time, which would be very clumsy?
I have a question though, it appears there is no input for a reverse trigger, I'm assuming it gets this information via the CAN bus. Now this is fine for the reversing camera, but I want to be able to force it to switch to camera input via a switch so I can use my front camera too. Feeding the correct camera (depending on which way I'm moving) to the RCA is handled by my camera system, I just need to force the headunit to switch to the video input. Is there any way of doing this or am I going to have to go into the headunit menu and select the input each time, which would be very clumsy?
Ok another angle then, can anyone who's got one fitted plus a camera confirm whether or not pressing the parking sensor button activates the camera too?
Anyway having a bit of time tonight I thought I'd quickly plug it into the van and check that it all works ok before I do any other mods to it. Disappointed to see it not power up at all with the ignition on or off and I thought I'd bought a dud until I checked the little diagram label on top of the unit and noticed that the +12v and both CANbus connections were on completely wrong pins on my adapter, presumably because I didn't use a specific VW plug. Anyway a quick bit of repinning later and voila
Carplay works perfectly first time and the sound is definitely better than my old unit (the bottom end basic one) with significantly more punch, which was a relief as I'd read a couple of reports of people unhappy with the sound. It turns out that there are at least 3 versions of the RCD330 so this may be something to do with that. That's before I feed it to my amp too so very happy about that. Unable to test my camera as it's been so long since I fitted it that I'd forgotten it terminates in a little 5 or 7 pin socket rather than RCA so I'll have to google the pinout of that and either cut an RCA into it or find an adapter.
So far so good
Anyway having a bit of time tonight I thought I'd quickly plug it into the van and check that it all works ok before I do any other mods to it. Disappointed to see it not power up at all with the ignition on or off and I thought I'd bought a dud until I checked the little diagram label on top of the unit and noticed that the +12v and both CANbus connections were on completely wrong pins on my adapter, presumably because I didn't use a specific VW plug. Anyway a quick bit of repinning later and voila
Carplay works perfectly first time and the sound is definitely better than my old unit (the bottom end basic one) with significantly more punch, which was a relief as I'd read a couple of reports of people unhappy with the sound. It turns out that there are at least 3 versions of the RCD330 so this may be something to do with that. That's before I feed it to my amp too so very happy about that. Unable to test my camera as it's been so long since I fitted it that I'd forgotten it terminates in a little 5 or 7 pin socket rather than RCA so I'll have to google the pinout of that and either cut an RCA into it or find an adapter.
So far so good
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Photo heavy post coming up, this is for anyone who wants to fit a rear USB input to this unit instead of having to use the front one. Much of the knowledge for doing this comes from the excellent post by the Russian guy I linked to earlier in this thread.
So first, unit reduced to its constituent parts to get access to the circuit board. You'll need a T9 driver and just go gently and it comes apart easily. There are no ribbon cables that need unplugging to do this.
This is the circuit board we need access to, the 4 solder points circled in red are the back of the USB where the wires need soldering. This unit uses an internal microphone, if you wanted to use an external roof mounted one, the area circled in yellow is where the signal goes in. You would need to unplug the little plug to the right of that and solder two wires, which could then be pinned into the quadlock in the appropriate positions. I'm going to see how it goes with the internal one and may revisit this if that doesn't work well.
Next to solder the wires on. They're very close together so a magnified view and a very fine tip is needed. Not shown here, but after soldering I covered the contacts in a big blob of hot glue and taped the wire to the circuit board to prevent movement.
Now to pass the USB plug through the gap in the metal backplate. This is where I deviated from the Russian post, I preferred to run the cable out the back where it didn't risk being crushed or damaged and would allow an easier run.
Finally I drilled a hole in the back of the case big enough to pass the USB plug through after fitting a grommet to protect it
I will probably try and connect this to the existing USB socket in the glovebox, but for now plugging in a female-female adapter allows me to plug a Lightning cable in and test it.
I have ordered an adapter to do this, and also had to order the correct double Fakra connector for the antenna, which have added another £20 to the price. Even so, that's still coming in at under £200, which for upgrading to a new Carplay/App Connect stereo with a bigger screen still seems like a bit of a bargain to me if you have the basic unit.
So does it work? Certainly does Here's Carplay on the 330+ using the rear connection.
Parking sensors working fine too
.
My 360 camera turned out to use a 6 pin mini DIN which was unexpected, but Google to the rescue showed that it carries both S-Video and composite so I just needed to connect to 2 pins to get an RCA adapter. Not just that, but it turns out that the pin configuration is identical to the old IBM PS/2 plug so I was able to make an adapter out of an old Y splitter cable I had and a phono jack. Unfortunately it didn't work when I tried it but I remembered afterwards that I'll need to code the camera in VCDS, but I'll do that next time.
Then next I'll cut the front speaker cables on the loom and wire them up to a line level converter. The connections to the underseat amp are already in, along with a remote turn on wire (I put them in more than a year ago!) then take the amp to speaker cables, which are currently tucked in behind the headunit, to their final connections.
So first, unit reduced to its constituent parts to get access to the circuit board. You'll need a T9 driver and just go gently and it comes apart easily. There are no ribbon cables that need unplugging to do this.
This is the circuit board we need access to, the 4 solder points circled in red are the back of the USB where the wires need soldering. This unit uses an internal microphone, if you wanted to use an external roof mounted one, the area circled in yellow is where the signal goes in. You would need to unplug the little plug to the right of that and solder two wires, which could then be pinned into the quadlock in the appropriate positions. I'm going to see how it goes with the internal one and may revisit this if that doesn't work well.
Next to solder the wires on. They're very close together so a magnified view and a very fine tip is needed. Not shown here, but after soldering I covered the contacts in a big blob of hot glue and taped the wire to the circuit board to prevent movement.
Now to pass the USB plug through the gap in the metal backplate. This is where I deviated from the Russian post, I preferred to run the cable out the back where it didn't risk being crushed or damaged and would allow an easier run.
Finally I drilled a hole in the back of the case big enough to pass the USB plug through after fitting a grommet to protect it
I will probably try and connect this to the existing USB socket in the glovebox, but for now plugging in a female-female adapter allows me to plug a Lightning cable in and test it.
I have ordered an adapter to do this, and also had to order the correct double Fakra connector for the antenna, which have added another £20 to the price. Even so, that's still coming in at under £200, which for upgrading to a new Carplay/App Connect stereo with a bigger screen still seems like a bit of a bargain to me if you have the basic unit.
So does it work? Certainly does
Here's Carplay on the 330+ using the rear connection.Parking sensors working fine too
.My 360 camera turned out to use a 6 pin mini DIN which was unexpected, but Google to the rescue showed that it carries both S-Video and composite so I just needed to connect to 2 pins to get an RCA adapter. Not just that, but it turns out that the pin configuration is identical to the old IBM PS/2 plug so I was able to make an adapter out of an old Y splitter cable I had and a phono jack. Unfortunately it didn't work when I tried it but I remembered afterwards that I'll need to code the camera in VCDS, but I'll do that next time.
Then next I'll cut the front speaker cables on the loom and wire them up to a line level converter. The connections to the underseat amp are already in, along with a remote turn on wire (I put them in more than a year ago!) then take the amp to speaker cables, which are currently tucked in behind the headunit, to their final connections.
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Coded the camera in with VCDS today and it still doesn't work. Plugged the little monitor I was previously using in and the picture was fine, so I don't know what the issue is. I need to plug something with an RCA composite output into the camera input to eliminate that being at fault and the only thing I can find is my old Wii, so if that works then it's down to being unable to get a composite signal out of the camera box.
On a more positive note, the Bluetooth phone connection works fine, with all the contacts etc transferring ok, and all the steering wheel controls work inc Siri.
On a more positive note, the Bluetooth phone connection works fine, with all the contacts etc transferring ok, and all the steering wheel controls work inc Siri.
Well I went out armed with several ideas of how to troubleshoot the non-working camera, but it turned out all me and the van needed was a little time apart. The BCM must need the shutdown to take effect as it works fine this morning
I'm going to fit a switch into one of the blanks that will interrupt the reverse feed to the camera control box which will allow me to switch between front and rear cameras, and I have one of those little power delay relays to keep the camera alive for a few seconds after leaving reverse on its way, but I'd still like to find a one-touch solution to bring the camera up. I can do it by hitting the Parkassist button and then switching to the camera on the screen for now.
Other than that, the connection of line level converter to the JL Audio amp, which was wired in under the passenger seat a year ago, then back to the speakers went without hitch and the Rainbow speakers sound much better than when they were fed direct from the headunit. The levels needed 30 secs tweaking and that was it. It's only a cheap little unit, <£13, but the sound is much improved now.
Almost done then, but I haven't been able to put it all back in as I'm waiting for that video delay, the Fakra antenna connector and the adapter to use the existing glovebox USB socket which are all still on the way from China. Hopefully it'll all be here in time for me to have the first trip in it next weekend, but if not it won't be the end of the world as it's perfectly useable at the moment.
I'm going to fit a switch into one of the blanks that will interrupt the reverse feed to the camera control box which will allow me to switch between front and rear cameras, and I have one of those little power delay relays to keep the camera alive for a few seconds after leaving reverse on its way, but I'd still like to find a one-touch solution to bring the camera up. I can do it by hitting the Parkassist button and then switching to the camera on the screen for now.
Other than that, the connection of line level converter to the JL Audio amp, which was wired in under the passenger seat a year ago, then back to the speakers went without hitch and the Rainbow speakers sound much better than when they were fed direct from the headunit. The levels needed 30 secs tweaking and that was it. It's only a cheap little unit, <£13, but the sound is much improved now.
Almost done then, but I haven't been able to put it all back in as I'm waiting for that video delay, the Fakra antenna connector and the adapter to use the existing glovebox USB socket which are all still on the way from China. Hopefully it'll all be here in time for me to have the first trip in it next weekend, but if not it won't be the end of the world as it's perfectly useable at the moment.
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Been doing some more messing about fine tuning things and have a couple of little VCDS nuggets for anyone with this unit (to clarify, it's the Desay 187B version of the RCD330, can't say whether the other versions will work the same but this seems to be the one that is being supplied by most sellers on Ebay).
First, it's supposedly possible to change the vehicle silhouette shown in Parkpilot to a Transporter. I say supposedly as it didn't seem to change anything when I did it. I did a headunit reset and a power cycle of the ignition but was still left with a Golf shaped car when I started up again. It could be that, like the camera, it needs to be left overnight to sort itself out, I'll report back. To do this, go into 56 Radio (not 5F as some other VW headunits use) and enter Hex 14 into Byte 6. As I said, nothing's happened so far but the description does change to the one below
Next, want to get rid of the option for "Baidu Carlife" on the app screen? Still in '56 Radio' , change Byte 0 to Hex 06. This does work and it disappeared immediately from my screen. As well as Carplay there's still the option for Mirrorlink which can also be deleted. I don't know what it is and I can't imagine I'll use it, but I'll leave it there for now.
First, it's supposedly possible to change the vehicle silhouette shown in Parkpilot to a Transporter. I say supposedly as it didn't seem to change anything when I did it. I did a headunit reset and a power cycle of the ignition but was still left with a Golf shaped car when I started up again. It could be that, like the camera, it needs to be left overnight to sort itself out, I'll report back. To do this, go into 56 Radio (not 5F as some other VW headunits use) and enter Hex 14 into Byte 6. As I said, nothing's happened so far but the description does change to the one below
Next, want to get rid of the option for "Baidu Carlife" on the app screen? Still in '56 Radio' , change Byte 0 to Hex 06. This does work and it disappeared immediately from my screen. As well as Carplay there's still the option for Mirrorlink which can also be deleted. I don't know what it is and I can't imagine I'll use it, but I'll leave it there for now.
Carplay is what I use but I've not come across Mirrorlink. Presumably out of date now Android Auto has come out? Thanks I can delete it now then
