I will attach a photo tommorrow. And try and find link to velcro. I did find the link to velcro on here originally as that's where I got idea from.Be interesting to see pics and a link to the Velcro you used
Did you put the junction box to the front? Also did you seal all of the way accross the front edge? I have the same job to do on the same panel in the next couple of weeks!
Also, I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post
Yes, I put the junction box at the front to keep the length of cable short. I didn't seal across the front leading edge as I only had one tube of sikaflex, but I don't think it's necessary either.
I marked out the area then slightly sanded the area beneath the panel with 240 grit to help adhesion. The junction box is 30 mm and I used a 30 mm hole saw which jumped around a bit and gave me a 35 mm hole so may be could have used a 25 mm hole saw. After drilling, I used a few layers of Bostik Flashband over the hole to build-up the valley where the junction box sits to match the height of the ridges and then sikaflexed on top and around it (someone else advised just to do a massive blob of sika instead of the flashband, but it's a big gap and would need some formwork to hold the sika in place whilst curing). To the inner ridges of the roof i put down the sika in a zigzag pattern, and a straight line of sika along the outside ridges. I made sure not to create any air traps in the Sika. I didn't do an extra bead along the leading edges and in fact kept the sika slighlty back from the edges so it wouldn't bleed out when I pushed the panel down. I walked on the panel bare foot along the ridges to apply pressure to stick the panel down (probably not a good idea) then covered it in cardboard and a few bricks whilst it cured and i wired it up. It's all worked out fine, I've been on the motorway a few times and it's not flown off and there is no whistling.
I only took picture of boot closed from that angle as you cant really see the wires from behind or from the other side.Be interesting to see pics and a link to the Velcro you used
Here's a link to the velcro. Its been on roof for 2 years now and never had a problem. I left gaps so the panel wont overheat, water and air can get in and out aswell. Was a nervous first journey as day after we fitted we left for France for 2 weeks.
Velcro Brand Black Heavy Duty Stick-On Tape 5m x 50mm - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Heavy duty, weatherproof tape with moulded plastic hook feature and high strength adhesive. Can be cut to length and is reusable. Ideal for the most demanding of indoor and outdoor projects. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
Very interesting. I see you have a pop top installed. Is the top of your roof ridged like the standard van roof or is it flat? Just wondering if this would work for a standard van roof or if the airflow through the ridges would cause enough pressure to pull the panel off...I’d prefer not to drill holes in my roof if I don’t have to.I only took picture of boot closed from that angle as you cant really see the wires from behind or from the other side.
Here's a link to the velcro. Its been on roof for 2 years now and never had a problem. I left gaps so the panel wont overheat, water and air can get in and out aswell. Was a nervous first journey as day after we fitted we left for France for 2 weeks.
Velcro Brand Black Heavy Duty Stick-On Tape 5m x 50mm - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Heavy duty, weatherproof tape with moulded plastic hook feature and high strength adhesive. Can be cut to length and is reusable. Ideal for the most demanding of indoor and outdoor projects. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.www.screwfix.com
View attachment 79736
View attachment 79737
Mine is a flat roof but I honestly dont think wind would pull it off. You wouldn't believe how strong it is. I was the same I didnt want to drill roof and thought the velcro idea from someone else on here was a great idea.
We are now having our single solar panel removed and a new pair fitted. Originally we were going for a ‘traditional’ one where the wires exit via a connector block on the top. However our original converter, who is making the change, has just offered one with rear entry. But that means cutting holes in the roof at least one of which will be ‘inside the van’.
Are there any dos or don’ts on this? Can the holes effectively be sealed so as to exclude water ‘for ever’? It’s much neater externally but is the risk of water entry too high?
Panels are from NDS.
Are there any dos or don’ts on this? Can the holes effectively be sealed so as to exclude water ‘for ever’? It’s much neater externally but is the risk of water entry too high?
Panels are from NDS.
PU adhesive (Puraflex 40 from Toolstation) or Sikaflex, or Tigerseal or a tube of windscreen adhesive from your local AutoWindscreens man will do it.
All the same stuff, and sets firmer than silicone (with less acidic vapours to boot)
All the same stuff, and sets firmer than silicone (with less acidic vapours to boot)
Just sticking my 100W PV Logic panel on today, found some updated fitting instructions on a website selling these panels, looks like they need some air space to keep the heat from doing any damage with expansion.
My panel has the outlet at the middle of the long edge, which I have drilled a hole for through my Skyline Aurora roof, at the rear in the dead space between the edge of the roof and the canvas. Have put 2 lines of Puraflex down the centre rib, one on each of the outer ribs and one down the outer edge of the panel on each side. I've left a gap beneath the panel where this sealant doesn't touch.
I'll see if it makes any noise on the move once it's all set and post pics once I've removed the dining room table top from holding it all down while it does.
My panel has the outlet at the middle of the long edge, which I have drilled a hole for through my Skyline Aurora roof, at the rear in the dead space between the edge of the roof and the canvas. Have put 2 lines of Puraflex down the centre rib, one on each of the outer ribs and one down the outer edge of the panel on each side. I've left a gap beneath the panel where this sealant doesn't touch.
I'll see if it makes any noise on the move once it's all set and post pics once I've removed the dining room table top from holding it all down while it does.
I drilled a hole in my metal roof, stuck some velcro on the ridges and fastend the panel to that. Then put some black stuff across the gaps in the front, more for water protection than fixing.
So I've wired up the panels through the 'Diode Box' and I'm not getting what I expect.
Open circuit voltage of the panels is about 20V (wires not connected to the 'box')
Connected to the 'Box' this drops to .61V, same on the output and my Redarc isn't lighting up its 'Solar' LED.
I know it's late in the afternoon but I expected at least something.
Anyone with a multimeter confirm their panel outputs are similar/different to mine?
Thanks.
Open circuit voltage of the panels is about 20V (wires not connected to the 'box')
Connected to the 'Box' this drops to .61V, same on the output and my Redarc isn't lighting up its 'Solar' LED.
I know it's late in the afternoon but I expected at least something.
Anyone with a multimeter confirm their panel outputs are similar/different to mine?
Thanks.
Panel fitted
if you only have one panel why are you bothering with a diode box? (you should one drop around 0.6v across the diode)
also make sure you have the polarity correct.
20v open circuit to 0.61v would imply you are short circuiting the panel.
this time of day you should still see some power . . . .
solar on the REDARC . .
PV plus to the yellow wire . .
PV minus to body ground - 0v
Lithium example below / . . .
also make sure you have the polarity correct.
20v open circuit to 0.61v would imply you are short circuiting the panel.
this time of day you should still see some power . . . .
solar on the REDARC . .
PV plus to the yellow wire . .
PV minus to body ground - 0v
Lithium example below / . . .
That's what is supplied with it, there are three wires coming out of the panel, Black/Yellow/Red.
10v or so between Black & Yellow, and 10V between Yellow & Red.
Something to do with shading.
10v or so between Black & Yellow, and 10V between Yellow & Red.
Something to do with shading.
gotch, so its 2x 50w panels in parallel.
those diodes are polarity conscious . . . so make sure you have the box the right way round.
those diodes are polarity conscious . . . so make sure you have the box the right way round.
Well, it's wired as per the diagram on the lid, and the markings on the PCB, I'll see what it does tomorrow.
I’ve got the same panels on my Crafter.
320w for me, and I’m a very happy bunny.
The Crafter Superhigh roof is made of fibreglass and has a perfectly smooth surface with no moulded pressings, hence the panels fit really neatly.
320w for me, and I’m a very happy bunny.
The Crafter Superhigh roof is made of fibreglass and has a perfectly smooth surface with no moulded pressings, hence the panels fit really neatly.
So, what's wrong with this picture?
(PCB is in same orientation when looking at the rear)
(PCB is in same orientation when looking at the rear)
Hold on . . .
The screen print is wrong . . . panel / output
it should be like this . . .
yep . . .
defo . . .
The screen print is wrong . . . panel / output
it should be like this . . .
yep . . .
defo . . .
Last edited:
Wouldnt this connect the +ve of the panel to the -ve of the MPPT? Is that right?
