Removing wheelchair ramp / cassette lift

hciR

Member
VIP Member
Hi Guys

I've just purchased a van which has a wheelchair ramp installed:


Was just wondering if anyone else has already removed one of these, and if you've got any lessons you learned that may help?

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Why remove that at all? :cool:

Looks like it could be used to lift all kinds of things, not just wheelchairs. Of course depends how you are going to use the van but personally I would be happy to have such a system as there's always some stuff to carry around using the van, sometimes even pretty heavy items.
 
Make yourself a cuppa and have a forum search. Several members have done it and used different approaches - the one I liked was the chap who kept the ramp but bolted it in position and then removed the redundant motor gubbins, but others have gone as far as welding in new sections of floor and essentially fully restoring their van to standard.
 
Why remove that at all? :cool:

Looks like it could be used to lift all kinds of things, not just wheelchairs. Of course depends how you are going to use the van but personally I would be happy to have such a system as there's always some stuff to carry around using the van, sometimes even pretty heavy items.
Clearance is the main worry for me, we tend to drive through a fair amount of rough tracks and uneven road surfaces, so my worry is getting beached as it sits lower than the rest of the van!
 
Make yourself a cuppa and have a forum search. Several members have done it and used different approaches - the one I liked was the chap who kept the ramp but bolted it in position and then removed the redundant motor gubbins, but others have gone as far as welding in new sections of floor and essentially fully restoring their van to standard.
Been having a search but can't seem to find anything other than one thread with a different type or rear lift (which looked very impressive and like some serious work!!)

I'm looking to remove an underbody cassette lift which is slightly different
 
Last edited:
Rich hi,

Can’t give you a solution, but I have just bought a van and intend to do the same remove the cassette ramp.

I will let you know how I get on.

Tom
 
Rich hi,

Can’t give you a solution, but I have just bought a van and intend to do the same remove the cassette ramp.

I will let you know how I get on.

Tom
Hi Tom,

I managed to get hold of some info for the ramp

Currently planning on having a go at dropping the ramp on Saturday, I'll let you know how I get on if you don't beat me to it!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got a big chunk of the work done today!

Firstly you'll need to take the plastic undertrays off to access everything, then it's time to follow and strip all the wires...

There was a wire running from the ramp up under the passenger seat, under the carpet, and the along the underside of the dash, to a red bulb on the dash (which was met with a second wire that was coming out the back of the OB2)

There was a wire running down the B pillar from an aftermarket switch that checked if the door was closed, it ran down the inside of the pillar under the van and then up under the the passenger seat to meet the other wires. (Had to remove the gas filler cap section due to zip ties) but you could just leave this switch in place to cover the holes and leave the wire going up the B pillar.

There we're 2 wires (one think one thing) running from the positive side of the battery, the thick one to an aftermarket fuse next to the battery. They then ran down through the engine bay to the ramp.

There was a wire coming from the ramp up under the passenger seat to a detachable connector that was mounted to the rear seat base cover. (Other side of the connector is where the controller is attached.) You'll need a de-pin tool if you want to remove it without cutting wires)

I'm not planning on re-using or selling anything, so I've finished the day by just cutting all wires at the point they come out the ramp, then put all the plastic covers back. So essentially I now just have a big metal rectangle bolted via 4 bolts to the bottom of the van.

It's apparently weighs 200kg, so I'm likely going to try to pay a garage to take the last 4 bolts out and dispose of it for me (as I did all the work on a friend's drive and can't just dump the ramp there and walk off!)

Essentially the only modifications you're left with post wire strip, are one blank switch on the dash that has a hole in for the LED bulb (easily replaced £12) a hole in the back of the passenger seat base cover where the remote cable was passed through (easily replaced £25) one small hole in the passenger side sliding door shut where the switch was mounted. (But if you leave the switch in place, there's no exposed hole, and noone would ever notice as the switch is so small and looks factory.)

Hope that helps someone, I'll update further once the metal box comes off.
 
Last edited:
Mines a eu5 didn't realise this changed on the eu6 for a smaller tank :rolleyes: .
You'll have to see how much you can get in it when you fill it then and work out whether thats sufficient for you or buy a 2nd hand tank to refit .
 
Filled it full from shortly after the red light came on today (Think the remaining range was still 70miles) Took 52 litres to fill.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CAB
Got a big chunk of the work done today!

Firstly you'll need to take the plastic undertrays off to access everything, then it's time to follow and strip all the wires...

There was a wire running from the ramp up under the passenger seat, under the carpet, and the along the underside of the dash, to a red bulb on the dash (which was met with a second wire that was coming out the back of the OB2)

There was a wire running down the B pillar from an aftermarket switch that checked if the door was closed, it ran down the inside of the pillar under the van and then up under the the passenger seat to meet the other wires. (Had to remove the gas filler cap section due to zip ties) but you could just leave this switch in place to cover the holes and leave the wire going up the B pillar.

There we're 2 wires (one think one thing) running from the positive side of the battery, the thick one to an aftermarket fuse next to the battery. They then ran down through the engine bay to the ramp.

There was a wire coming from the ramp up under the passenger seat to a detachable connector that was mounted to the rear seat base cover. (Other side of the connector is where the controller is attached.) You'll need a de-pin tool if you want to remove it without cutting wires)

I'm not planning on re-using or selling anything, so I've finished the day by just cutting all wires at the point they come out the ramp, then put all the plastic covers back. So essentially I now just have a big metal rectangle bolted via 4 bolts to the bottom of the van.

It's apparently weighs 200kg, so I'm likely going to try to pay a garage to take the last 4 bolts out and dispose of it for me (as I did all the work on a friend's drive and can't just dump the ramp there and walk off!)

Hope that helps someone, I'll update further once the metal box comes off.
Did you ever get it fully off Rich?

I’d have had it as a spare, or at least the control box off of it as they’re like hens teeth.

PS yeah, you’ll have a smaller fuel tank and it’s best to never let it get too near empty because the senders are renowned for never being totally accurate afterwards, so rule of thumb is to keep it 1/4 full and above.
 
Did you ever get it fully off Rich?

I’d have had it as a spare, or at least the control box off of it as they’re like hens teeth.

PS yeah, you’ll have a smaller fuel tank and it’s best to never let it get too near empty because the senders are renowned for never being totally accurate afterwards, so rule of thumb is to keep it 1/4 full and above.
I've booked it in to get taken off by a local garage tomorrow. I'll be asking them to scrap it as I don't have room to store it, and it weighs like 200kg so can't remove it or manuve it by myself.

Good info on the fuel tank thanks!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top