Renogy inverter to battery cables

Dellmassive said:
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Click to expand...
Everyone loves a discount code! Thanks for the extra info on the Roamer, too. With all the know how on here, definitely makes the project less daunting!
 
Hi All,
I've currently got battery and DC to DC charger under drivers seat and looking to install my new 1000w renogy inverter under my single passenger seat. I'm going to have my own cable made up, my question is, I'm concerned about cable route between the 2 seats, how have you guys done this? Have you gone straight under cab matting(I'm concerned about heat with this option), or, have you routed cable to underside of van i.e. coming down and then back up.throigh grommets in floor(concerned about cable being damaged exposed to the elements).

Cheers
 
Gazza1 said:
Hi All,
I've currently got battery and DC to DC charger under drivers seat and looking to install my new 1000w renogy inverter under my single passenger seat. I'm going to have my own cable made up, my question is, I'm concerned about cable route between the 2 seats, how have you guys done this? Have you gone straight under cab matting(I'm concerned about heat with this option), or, have you routed cable to underside of van i.e. coming down and then back up.throigh grommets in floor(concerned about cable being damaged exposed to the elements).

Cheers
Click to expand...
i used 16mm / 20mm copex (split or not) tubing, and run the 16/25mm2 cable in that.

along the groves in the bodywork,



1738909594319.png

+++++++++++++++


pics from @Deaky van

but you can see there are two low section where the seat base bolt are. .

i pushed the tube allong there,


green being the feed in from the engine bay to the charger, and yellow being options for the interlink between the seat bases.


1738909837017.png


++++++++++++++++







1738909471071.png


++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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Last edited:
Dellmassive said:
i used 20mm copex tubing, and run the 16/25mm2 cable in that.

along the groves in the bodywork,




View attachment 273679


++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure

moving on from the mechanicals . . . its time to start enjoying the van. the first official campout of 2024. T6F Spring Camp. - T6F Spring Gathering 2024 - (April 19-21st) - VENUE CHANGED to Brook Meadow we had a blast . . . the van done a great job,. . . but the added EHU was nice to...
www.t6forum.com www.t6forum.com


Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure

I can wholeheartedly recommend the diesel heater, they really do warm the whole van up really quickly. And it's handy not just when camping. Picking someone up/waiting around for someone with it's cold and don't want to sit there with the engine running for heat? Stick on the diesel heater...
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Click to expand...
Hey thanks for the reply.
Would this not add to my concerns re heat not being able to be dissipated in the cable, or, did you you run the cable external shielded in the copex. Thanks
 
I used cable sock for slight cable protection,

And copex for heavy cable protection.

I run mine under the carpet.

The cable will only get hot if it's under rated.

For 1000w inverter you should be looking at around 25mm2 cable gauge and under a 2meter run, with the 0v going direct to chassis.... Basically keep the cables as short as possible.
 
this . .

1738911409239.png


Renogy say you need 1x 100ah lithium per 1000w inverter power.


++++++++


they show 4awg cable for 3ft/1meter max. . .


which is 25mm2 for 1meter max.




1738911505789.png

1738911604096.png


+++


and a 150A fuse to protect the cable,,


1738911765405.png


++++++++++++++

assuming you have a lithium battery - so running about 13v ish, (and using the 25mm2 cable for less than 2meters)

the volt drop is in the green zone,

1738911898136.png

.....


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Dellmassive said:
I used cable sock for slight cable protection,

And copex for heavy cable protection.

I run mine under the carpet.

The cable will only get hot if it's under rated.

For 1000w inverter you should be looking at around 25mm2 cable gauge and under a 2meter run, with the 0v going direct to chassis.... Basically keep the cables as short as possible.
Click to expand...
Great advice, thanks, I'll go with that
 
Madpasty said:
my renogy 1000w inverter running off a fogstar 105ah battery, won't run a 600w kettle :(
Click to expand...
something wrong there then. .

i can easily pull the full 1000w from mine no worries. .


post some pics of your setup - are your link cables fat enough to the battery?


1738913254177.png
 
Gazza1 said:
Hi All,
I've currently got battery and DC to DC charger under drivers seat and looking to install my new 1000w renogy inverter under my single passenger seat. I'm going to have my own cable made up, my question is, I'm concerned about cable route between the 2 seats, how have you guys done this? Have you gone straight under cab matting(I'm concerned about heat with this option), or, have you routed cable to underside of van i.e. coming down and then back up.throigh grommets in floor(concerned about cable being damaged exposed to the elements).

Cheers
Click to expand...
I'm planning to route the cables under the rubber foam matting just where it meets the plywood floor as it gets thinner here and it simply flaps back quite easily. There's enough space to route the cables and no worries about heat issues really. I would not bother going under the van outside, as it's not necessary and adds further complications for the future. Far better to contain it in the van interior space for inspection and maintenance reasons.
 
If you are concerned about potential heat issues from the cables, just increase the diameter a bit. Though to be honest, I really don't think it's going to be a problem for you as long as you size the cables correctly for the current it should be fine. The cables will be half against a steel floor so that will help. Even better if you use silicone insulated cables as these are better at handling higher currents than the usual pvc insulated cables.
 
i'm using a fogstar 105ah battery with about a metre length of 25mm cable to the renogy 1000ww converter
 
Madpasty said:
i'm using a fogstar 105ah battery with about a metre length of 25mm cable to the renogy 1000ww converter
Click to expand...
Fuse?. Neg connection?

Pics will help.

Put your multimeter on the inverter terminals, and then turn on your 600w kettle... Post your readings..

And screenshot your Fogstar app .

.
 
Dellmassive said:
Fuse?. Neg connection?

Pics will help.

Put your multimeter on the inverter terminals, and then turn on your 600w kettle... Post your readings..

And screenshot your Fogstar app .

.
Click to expand...
the neg is direct onto the battery, it did use to run a 1000w kettle but no longer does.

battery with no load
20250126_160618.jpg


battery with kettle load then it beeps and shuts down for a few seconds then trys again
20250126_160645.jpg

and battery app with no load
Screenshot_20250207_174852_Fogstar Drift.jpg
 
There's the problem.

Extreme volt drop....

The volts is dropping to 9v under load.

So something no right.... You say it used to work?

Do a screenshot of the app on load... Does the app show 9v? Or still above 12v?

Are the inverter Cables thick and short?

If so, id imagine you have a corroded, loose,burned connection somewhere?.

Maybe a melted fuse/holder?

Post some pics of the inverter link cables/connections and the battery connectors.

I've seen similar with a melted 100A fuse holder, causing poor connection.


...


Screenshot_20250208_113157_Chrome.jpg



...
 
the app still shows 13.8v i guess i'll take it out and check all the connections again, it's only been in a few months so can't see it has corroded in that time,
one thing i don't understand is the battery doesn't work (totaly Dead) unless the ignition it on?
 
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