Solar Technology International

[ceej]

Agree with @Dellmassive dont over complicate the install. As i said in my previous post and what Dellmassive has posted extracts out of, thats the best way to get the job done without messing about. The panels are flexible enough to take most of the ridges out anyway.

The Silka will give a good bed in the gap if you pump enough of it in to build up. By having to bond the poly carb, you are effectivly double bonding for no value imho.

The only way to get a true flat look is to have a true flat roof with no ridges. everything else will be as high as the ridge regardless.

As highlighted above two key bits to make sure you do, 1) Seal the wind loaded end( ie when you are driving you dont want the panel ripping off by having wind get under it) and 2) leave air ciruclation gaps in the adhesive bed (as per image above).

 

[zoomequipped]

Thanks for the response.

Ye quite possibly I'm just overthinking it all. I guess what makes me nervous versus other ridged roof examples I have seen is that my roof just has 2 very thin ridges going lengthways, versus some that have more, wider ridges (hence more surface area on the raised section to give a good hold).

@Dellmassive interesting point on the vinyl sheet underneath, I had missed this in other pages/posts. I am quite surprised that the hold is strong enough on the vinyl stickering, will look into where I could get this done.

Ok, just to make sure I've understand then, I've drawn a rough guide of where I need to apply adhesive too on the roof, let me know your thoughts?

So a line across the front to seal the wind out, length-ways lines down the sections too narrow for width-ways (ridges, and outside of ridges), and then 2 separated lines along the middle section also.

Thanks (I appreciate your patience)

 

[ceej]

Yep that looks alright to me!
Because you have thin ridges just make sure you cover the width of the ridge with adhesive but not too heigh like 0.5-1cm height tops.

Then along the length of the ridge each side run a heigh thick bead kind of tapering away from the ridge, what will happen is that when you plonk the panel on top there will be squeeze out along the ridge and it will move towards the build up you made and give you a good bond and the panel will naturally fall to your outside beads.
(If that description makes any sense I’m away from laptop so can draw it)

also make sure you exaggerate the gaps in the central bit as all that area will get squashed so adhesive will need not to join.

 

[zoomequipped]

Yep that looks alright to me!
Because you have thin ridges just make sure you cover the width of the ridge with adhesive but not too heigh like 0.5-1cm height tops.

Then along the length of the ridge each side run a heigh thick bead kind of tapering away from the ridge, what will happen is that when you plonk the panel on top there will be squeeze out along the ridge and it will move towards the build up you made and give you a good bond and the panel will naturally fall to your outside beads.
(If that description makes any sense I’m away from laptop so can draw it)

also make sure you exaggerate the gaps in the central bit as all that area will get squashed so adhesive will need not to join.

Thanks

I’m not sure I fully understand the tapering it away from the ridge point, but again that is likely just me being slightly slow (/clueless)

Will definitely make sure just to apply a thin layer onto the ridges though and thicker beads elsewhere.

 

[ceej]

Like this and on the outer side of the ridge where the arrows point. Effectivly if you angle the Adhesive nossle on the ridge edge along that surface, it will increase your surface area there and give you a better hold. You're kinda exagerating the ridge width with this method.

Also, just to make sure i've added the horizontal lines make sure you leave a gap from ridge to the line and the line spacing around 70-100mm or so. Probably be alright with 100m using that adhesive. Reason leaving the gaps next to the ridge is to allow the circulation if you close that and only have a single channel down the middle you wont get the air ciculating under the pannel. (might be ok but why take the risk)

 

[zoomequipped]

Like this and on the outer side of the ridge where the arrows point. Effectivly if you angle the Adhesive nossle on the ridge edge along that surface, it will increase your surface area there and give you a better hold. You're kinda exagerating the ridge width with this method.

Also, just to make sure i've added the horizontal lines make sure you leave a gap from ridge to the line and the line spacing around 70-100mm or so. Probably be alright with 100m using that adhesive. Reason leaving the gaps next to the ridge is to allow the circulation if you close that and only have a single channel down the middle you wont get the air ciculating under the pannel. (might be ok but why take the risk)

View attachment 108484

Ok i’m with you, makes sense!

Right i’ll wait for all the parts to arrive and hope for a few days of dry weather, will post some pics once it’s done!

Thanks again

 

[zoomequipped]

Hi All,

Just realised i've ordered the below cable (I want to combine wiring into one dual core cable in the roof and then run this down through the cupboards etc.)......but realised the description only sales 2.5mm cable.

Solar panels for motorhomes, boats, narrowboats and caravans

Motorhome solar panels, narrowboat and canal boat solar panels, caravan solar panels. Expert advice from the originators of the dual battery charge controller.

sunworks.co.uk

Will this be OK, or is it too small? I have 6mm cable to go between the MPPT and the battery, and the panel comes with 1m of 4mm cable.

If not, does anyone know where I can get a similar product with thicker wire? I struggled to find many dual core cables with MC4s already connected to one side (appreciate I could buy a dual core cable and split it and connect the MC4s myself, but the split won't be as neat if I do it myself, and given it'll be on show in the roof, ideally I would buy one pre-done.

Thanks in advance

 

[Dellmassive]

use any cable you like / find. . . Crimp on your own ends, and make neat with heat-shrink.

though that cable above is only 4mtrs, so should be ok at 2.5mm for under 200w

+++

you will need the MC4 tool anyway to get the MC4 open


get a MC4 crimper set. : https://amzn.to/3lnBhVP




then finish cables with heat-shrink : Heat Shrink Tubing Electrical Insulation Heat Shrink Packaging Cable Kit 5 Colors 12 Specs, 560Pcs: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science




.

 

[zoomequipped]

Thanks!

How comes I need an MC4 connector kit, I thought they just plugged/unplugged using your hands?

I was going to connect the MC4 at the end of the solar panel, with the MC4s on the end of that 2.5mm dual core wiring i've ordered with connectors attached, and then just cut the wire to length, crimp, and plug into my MPPT?

Clearly i'll need to take the MC4 connectors off fully to run the wire through the gland on the roof, but I managed to just take these off with hands and a small micro screwdriver, and then was going to refit, or fit a spare pair I have ordered.


Also, just did a quick test run of the panel/MPPT, it worked fine, but getting the 6mm cable i'm using for MPPT to battery into the MPPT connectors was extremely difficult, i.e. too much wire for the size of the hole?


Thanks

 

[Dellmassive]

How comes I need an MC4 connector kit, I thought they just plugged/unplugged using your hands?

they do just click together . . . but VERY TIGHT.

undoing them is the issue. . . . it depends how strong your finger are.

i find the Tools come in handy as a third hand.

they keep the tags pressed in leaving you with two hands to pull the connectors apart.


i use these style . .





you can get the tools separately. : Renogy® MC4 Assembly Tool Spanners/Wrench for Solar Panel: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors







.

 

[Dellmassive]

Also, just did a quick test run of the panel/MPPT, it worked fine, but getting the 6mm cable i'm using for MPPT to battery into the MPPT connectors was extremely difficult, i.e. too much wire for the size of the hole?

trim the wire down by a few strands and finish off with a wire Ferule like these . . : 800pcs 10-24 AWG Wire Copper Crimp Connector Insulated Cord Pin End Terminal Ferrules Kit for Electrical Projects: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools




.



or

again just trim the wire down till its fits nice.

Then finish off with Heat-shrink to make a nice finish with no exposed strands . . : Heat Shrink Tubing Kit,14 Sizes Black Heat Shrink Tube, Shrink Ratio 2:1 Electrical Shrink Tubing Wire Large Wrap Industrial Shrink Tubes Assortment for Wires Repairs, Soldering, Automotive Wiring: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science




or . . (for a perm install)

decouple the wire onto a connector block or strip or pluggable connector . . . then use smaller gauge wire for the last few inches to the solar controller.


.

 

[zoomequipped]

Was going to fit the panel today to the roof but noticed the roof is actually slightly curved, and concerned I will get good contact between right in the middle of the roof (where i planned to leave an air gap as per above diagram), but then very big gaps on the outside of the ridges

not sure if the below picture shows it fully but the outside edges of the panel really do stick up somewhat.

should I be concerned? Just don’t want to start laying down adhesive to the roof if an issue