Sound Proofing Roof Area of Kombi - what thickness should I use ?

[bttb]

Hi Guys & Ladies

Apologies in advance , if others have asked this question - but I've searched the forums and can't see the info.

So I'm really after your advice please before I pull the trigger

I've recently dodo deaden matted the rear of my T6.1 Kombi (sides, rear sliders, roof and tailgate) , but looking improve the soundproofing to make it more comforatble on our terrible UK roads.

I was thinking on adding a closed cell to the sides, rear sliders, roof and tailgate where I have fitted the sound deadening.

What thickness would you recommend to use and where ?

BTW - I haven't done anything on the floor as yet , as the T6.1 seems to have a nice thickish rubberised floor mat already installed - unsure if I need to add anything there to improve things so any tips or advice welcomed

Thanks

Garry

PS. I don't want to fit a rear bulk head though as I need the carry things regularly and need to remove the double seat to get things in and out ;0)

 

[Scruffy]

I intend on using 10mm closed cell plus a DoDo mat type material, plus an insulation material. Kiravans do a good step by step guide via their website or YouTube channel, and I will be basically following them for my Kombi.

 

[bttb]

I intend on using 10mm closed cell plus a DoDo mat type material, plus an insulation material. Kiravans do a good step by step guide via their website or YouTube channel, and I will be basically following them for my Kombi.

Scruffy, Thanks for your reply

Matt from Deadening.co.uk also emailed me the following info:

""""""""""""""""""""""""


We recommend using the following page and 3 videos for a guide on which products to use and how to soundproof and insulate the van:

Van Insulation & Soundproofing

Estimated quantities for a SWB Transporter:

1 x Dodo Medium Van Pro Kit

Dodo Medium Van Pro Kit

1 x Dodo Dead Mat Duo Twin Pack (floor)

Dodo Mat DEADN Duo Twin

Optional Extras
2 x Dodo Thermo Fleece 100mm (lower sides)

Dodo Thermo Fleece

1 x Dodo Thermo Fleece Slimline 50mm (upper sides)
1 x Dodo Thermo Fleece Slimline 50mm (roof)

Dodo Thermo Fleece Slimline

Kind Regards,
Matt

"""""""""

Hth others on the forum ;0)

 

[Scruffy]

I've watched that channel as well on YT, another good one.

 

[Dave Lawson]

I did 2mm silent coat, 10mm dodo mat then 35mm insulation (recycled plastic stuff).

 

[Scruffy]

I'm going to be controversial here and say, you apply a sound deadening to a panel that is thin/weak whatever and is prone to resonate. So why the roof? which is by design ribbed/contoured to give it extra strength. I will be putting a 10mm closed cell mat on my roof, but that is purely for thermal insulation, I won't bother with a SD material.

I await a the ridicule.

 

[Dave Lawson]

I'm going to be controversial here and say, you apply a sound deadening to a panel that is thin/weak whatever and is prone to resonate. So why the roof? which is by design ribbed/contoured to give it extra strength. I will be putting a 10mm closed cell mat on my roof, but that is purely for thermal insulation, I won't bother with a SD material.

I await a the ridicule.

No ridicule from me. It was so much easier than doing the floor, I actually enjoyed doing it! We were in full lockdown too, I had nothing better to do

 

[Paul Greathead]

Floor and roof is the best upgrade your do.

 

[Howzat]

I'm going to be controversial here and say, you apply a sound deadening to a panel that is thin/weak whatever and is prone to resonate. So why the roof? which is by design ribbed/contoured to give it extra strength.

I agree. Did a tap test. Side panels boom. Roof thud. So I'll be SD'ing the sides and doors @ 50% and the arches at 100% as recommended by the supplier.

We recommend a minimum 50% coverage over a panel to comprehensively remove vibration and resonance. 100% coverage will provide a blocking barrier for airbourne noise, which is useful for areas such as the floor and wheel arches.

In response to the OP the 2mm stuff seems to be the go to thickness.

 

[bttb]

Thanks for all your replies and advice

 

[C4BOS]

How easy did you find it and do i need to buys special tools to remove the panels?

 

[Scruffy]

A set of trim tools off eBay or Mr Besos will make the job easier, and probably a small allen key. I've done my whole van, ( and carpeted the ply panels ) and if I can do it, anyone can.

Just a note; the roof of my new T6.1 already had a fair amount of VW sound deadening material applied. I was in fact, quite surprised by the amount of various materials applied to the van at the factory, maybe VW are upping their game.

 

[Arrow]

I put sound deadening on the roof (does make a difference but arguably not really essential, no need to go full on, just fill the low ponts) then 25mm kingspan sheet in 3 parts. It flexes enough but use the longer plastic fixings to hold the slight increase in thickness.

For the sides I put the sound deadening, a layer of that black foamy stuff (about 6mm) then the recycled bottle insulation 25mm I think. Pushed it into every nook and cranny but not compacted. Then as a vapour barrier I put the silver bubble wrap stuff over it all to seal it. That doesn't really insulate but makes for a strong vapour barrier. Used spray glue to keep everything in place. Can easily remove overspray with some nail varnish remover.

Re-used all the original paneling. Layer of stretch carpet over those and some roof stuff to match the front head panel.

For the floor, a layer of carpet offcut does a great job. I used the foam floor as the template. Kept the foam floor in and put the carpet on top. Remove the plastic steps and all fits under clean and tidy.

Makes a huge difference! Was all rattley and cold before. Now heats up quick in sub zero. Stays warm.

Run in some cables (minimum 4mm black and red pair) from your passenger seat to the back with spare, you'll want to add usb or a 12v sockets down the road and it's upsetting to have to pull things up later.... Don't ask me how I know.

Also, you don't need to cover every square inch in sound deadening. Enough to deaden the panels. Heat them up on a wee oil radiator as you go along and they stick like shit, better off cutting them up cold though to stop gumming up the scissors.

Buy lots of new clips, the original ones you remove are as good as gone once removed. And don't buy from eBay, those are shite.

Dodo mat + Harrison trim supplies for everything you need!

 

[chazmanda]

I am about to get started with the roof first, I've got this pack - Dodo Medium Van Pro Kit plus some thin thermo fleece. Thought I would do this pattern (found pic online) for the SD... I've bought a small heat gun and some panel wipe spray to clean before applying. I am a total noob however I've spent a long time reading this excellent forum and watching the how to videos! Do you think that amount would be enough or shall I go full coverage?

 

[Scruffy]

I wouldn't bother with more than 50% sound deadening material on the roof, if that. I would though go full 10mm foam and then some type of insulation ( 25-50mm) on top of that.

 

[Arrow]

I am about to get started with the roof first, I've got this pack - Dodo Medium Van Pro Kit plus some thin thermo fleece. Thought I would do this pattern (found pic online) for the SD... I've bought a small heat gun and some panel wipe spray to clean before applying. I am a total noob however I've spent a long time reading this excellent forum and watching the how to videos! Do you think that amount would be enough or shall I go full coverage?View attachment 145979

Yea I've done just what they've done. Then a 25mm kingspan and loosely packed soft insulation into all the edges and holes. Sealed with aluminium tape.

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

We do all kinds of insulation specs depending on customers’ requirements. Some want sound deadening on the roof but as you say the roof pretty solid anyway and once the closed cell foam is fitted that does a pretty good job of sound deadening also.

It’s purely your call what you do as long as the insulation is not too thick and makes the roof panels bulge. I wouldn’t use king span, sorry. You have no ventilation above and any warm moist air which gets above the insulation can create condensation.

Also bear in mind that half of the van has uninsulated single skin glass windows so a balanced approach is needed with insulation

 

[chazmanda]

Thanks Arrow and Scruffy, that's what I'll do then. I hadn't thought of the aluminium tape though, is that for vapour barrier reasons?

 

[Arrow]

We do all kinds of insulation specs depending on customers’ requirements. Some want sound deadening on the roof but as you say the roof pretty solid anyway and once the closed cell foam is fitted that does a pretty good job of sound deadening also.

It’s purely your call what you do as long as the insulation is not too thick and makes the roof panels bulge. I wouldn’t use king span, sorry. You have no ventilation above and any warm moist air which gets above the insulation can create condensation.

Also bear in mind that half of the van has uninsulated single skin glass windows so a balanced approach is needed with insulation

Yea I was a little worried about condensation. I've tried my best to seal everywhere with the foil tape. I'll maybe remove one of the lights, pop a temporary hole in the foil and push a rod in with some tissue for a quick check after a long run in the cold.

Although, I do remember before I put any insulation on the roof, it would get pretty wet after a few hours driving. That moisture didn't really ever evaporate until the summer.

If I do find condensation I'll probably just stick a dehumidifier in the van and dry it out occasionally.

Made a huge difference to the overall comfort and sound deadening though!

I think you either completely insulate and make it airtight or go for a breathable insulation to assist with some air circulation and evaporation.

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Yea I was a little worried about condensation. I've tried my best to seal everywhere with the foil tape. I'll maybe remove one of the lights, pop a temporary hole in the foil and push a rod in with some tissue for a quick check after a long run in the cold.

Although, I do remember before I put any insulation on the roof, it would get pretty wet after a few hours driving. That moisture didn't really ever evaporate until the summer.

If I do find condensation I'll probably just stick a dehumidifier in the van and dry it out occasionally.

Made a huge difference to the overall comfort and sound deadening though!

I think you either completely insulate and make it airtight or go for a breathable insulation to assist with some air circulation and evaporation.

You can only do your best, if we are doing for a customer and we have condensation we will be in trouble. If it’s your own van you are only answerable to yourself. There are cold roofs and warm roofs, cold roofs need ventilation, warm roofs dont. What you have is close to a warm roof where no ventilation is needed, however, if you get warm moist air between the insulation and the van roof you will have condensation. Cheers