Splitting solar power for our new Bluetti AC180 and our leisure battery

[andy greenwood]

Hi everyone, our current set up is a 150w solar panel that is wired into a victron 75/15 mppt charge controller. We have just bought a Bluetti AC180 power station which comes with some MC4 connectors and we would like to be able to charge the Bluetti when required , as well as charging our leisure battery with the Victron mppt controller. Is this set-up possible please guys ? Many thanks

 

[roadtripper]

No, you can only have one MPPT controller connected to a solar panel.

However you can cheat and use the solar input as a higher current DC input to recharge your Bluetti from your leisure battery, which will achieve the same thing.

 

[Dellmassive]

No, as above.

You can plug the panel.into either.... Or.

But not both at same time.

Or,

Leave the panel on the victron and leisure battery..

Then connect the bluetti to the leisure battery...

That's what I do, I call it a buffer battery setup.

Panel - LB - PPP.

.

 

[roadtripper]

With your Victron MPPT you likely have a set of unused "load" terminals that should be able to supply 15A

Your Bluetti can accept 10A at 12v.

So if you got a spare solar input cable, removed the MC4 connectors and wired that to the Victron MPPT load terminals you get an optimal DC charge for your Bluetti but with the advantage that the Victron can protect your main leisure battery from deep discharge.

 

[andy greenwood]

No, you can only have one MPPT controller connected to a solar panel.

However you can cheat and use the solar input as a higher current DC input to recharge your Bluetti from your leisure battery, which will achieve the same thing.

Thank you

 

[andy greenwood]

No, as above.

You can plug the panel.into either.... Or.

But not both at same time.

Or,

Leave the panel on the victron and leisure battery..

Then connect the bluetti to the leisure battery...

That's what I do, I call it a buffer battery setup.

Panel - LB - PPP.

.

Thank you

 

[andy greenwood]

With your Victron MPPT you likely have a set of unused "load" terminals that should be able to supply 15A

Your Bluetti can accept 10A at 12v.

So if you got a spare solar input cable, removed the MC4 connectors and wired that to the Victron MPPT load terminals you get an optimal DC charge for your Bluetti but with the advantage that the Victron can protect your main leisure battery from deep discharge.

View attachment 247941

So it looks like it comes with a solar cable, one end plugs into the Bluetti and the other end has MC4 connectors.
So if i buy another pair of cables , cut the mc4 connectors off one end and wire them into the LOAD on the victron, i can then connect the Mc4' to each other as and when needed, does that sound ok ?

 

[andy greenwood]

No, as above.

You can plug the panel.into either.... Or.

But not both at same time.

Or,

Leave the panel on the victron and leisure battery..

Then connect the bluetti to the leisure battery...

That's what I do, I call it a buffer battery setup.

Panel - LB - PPP.

.

So there seems to be 2 options, one is to connect to the LOAD on the victron, the other as you said is to connect straight to the battery. Is one way better than the other or does it not matter? Out of interest if i connected as you have, can i connect straight to the battery ( obviously mc4's taken off ) or do i have to put in a fuse? Cheers

 

[roadtripper]

If you connect straight to the battery you will need to fuse the feeds as near as possible to the battery. You don't need to do this strictly with using the LOAD terminals on the Victron but it won't hurt if you did.

Be aware if you connect direct to the battery there is no control to cut off charging your Bluetti so it may very well drain it flat. Essentially you have a "free" battery disconnect you can configure in the Victron.

You could certainly buy a set of MC4 tails and wire those into the LOAD terminals and then connect the Bluetti charge cable to that. It will work but I don't recommend it. MC4 connectors are PV connectors and there is a very great danger that at some point you end up plugging a solar panel into the output by accident and damage the controller or panel. I'd either wire dedicated or use a different connector. But a simple set of tails to see if it works would work, just I feel uncomfortable recommending that long term.

 

[andy greenwood]

If you connect straight to the battery you will need to fuse the feeds as near as possible to the battery. You don't need to do this strictly with using the LOAD terminals on the Victron but it won't hurt if you did.

Be aware if you connect direct to the battery there is no control to cut off charging your Bluetti so it may very well drain it flat. Essentially you have a "free" battery disconnect you can configure in the Victron.

You could certainly buy a set of MC4 tails and wire those into the LOAD terminals and then connect the Bluetti charge cable to that. It will work but I don't recommend it. MC4 connectors are PV connectors and there is a very great danger that at some point you end up plugging a solar panel into the output by accident and damage the controller or panel. I'd either wire dedicated or use a different connector. But a simple set of tails to see if it works would work, just I feel uncomfortable recommending that long term.

Thanks for the info , it sounds like wiring to the LOAD on the victron is the way to go. The best way may be to strip the mc4 connectors off the dedicated bluetti solar cable that comes in the box and just wire that into the LOAD , do you think that sounds ok ? Many thanks

 

[roadtripper]

If the lead is long enough to work for the location yes. I would make sure the lead is cable tied to something to stop any mechanical load on the Victron terminals - it's the sort of lead you may well be fumbling with in the dark!

If you don't fancy chopping the nice quality Bluetti cable until you are sure it's the right solution get this lead and chop it in half to form two tails for the Victron LOAD output. I don't think MC4 connectors are the best choice long term due to confusion but it's the cheapest way of doing a trial.

4mm² Single Core Solar Extension Cable With MC4-Compatible Connectors - 5m Length

4mm² single core, UV-resistant solar cable supplied as a 5m length. Ends terminated with male & female MC4-compatible connectors. Ideal as extension cables.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[andy greenwood]

If the lead is long enough to work for the location yes. I would make sure the lead is cable tied to something to stop any mechanical load on the Victron terminals - it's the sort of lead you may well be fumbling with in the dark!

If you don't fancy chopping the nice quality Bluetti cable until you are sure it's the right solution get this lead and chop it in half to form two tails for the Victron LOAD output. I don't think MC4 connectors are the best choice long term due to confusion but it's the cheapest way of doing a trial.

4mm² Single Core Solar Extension Cable With MC4-Compatible Connectors - 5m Length

4mm² single core, UV-resistant solar cable supplied as a 5m length. Ends terminated with male & female MC4-compatible connectors. Ideal as extension cables.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

much appreciated, thankyou, I'll give it a go

 

[roadtripper]

This section of the Victron manual will help.

5. Configuration and settings

www.victronenergy.com

I suspect the jumper will be on by default but I'm not sure on which profile, probably the first (pin 1 to 2 bridged)

The first profile will essentially prioritise charging the Bluetti, so the LOAD terminal will be on until the leisure battery is essentially flat. The low voltage cutoff there is very low and you probably shouldn't rely on it if your leisure battery is lead acid.

The second profile will essentially prioritise the leisure battery so the LOAD terminal will only be on when the leisure battery is reasonably well charged and there is generation. That's probably the one to start with. AFAIK the algorithm for the LOAD terminal is driven entirely by battery voltage not by solar input, so I'd expect this to also switch on when your battery is being charged from the engine even if it's dark.

If you want finer control remove the jumper and you can do custom settings in the app.

 

[Jeff G]

I am about to have my electrics upgraded to a full Victron system to include a Roamer 230Ah leisure battery and a roof mounted solar panel. I needed to overcome the problem of wanting to charge both the EcoFlow Delta 2 and the leisure battery from the same solar panel.

Both systems, van and EcoFlow having independent MPPT controllers, they presumably cannot run at the same time. I intend to add a DC isolation switch on the solar input and add a transfer switch (1-0-2). The intention is to be able to switch solar input to either EcoFlow or van leisure battery. While I appreciate the solar panel EcoFlow charging will likely be a lengthy process, it will be handy to have that option available.

As a backup, I have also bought a 100w Renogy suitcase solar panel, which can connect directly to the EcoFlow to provide simultaneous charging.......

 

[TallPaul_S]

I am about to have my electrics upgraded to a full Victron system to include a Roamer 230Ah leisure battery and a roof mounted solar panel. I needed to overcome the problem of wanting to charge both the EcoFlow Delta 2 and the leisure battery from the same solar panel.

Both systems, van and EcoFlow having independent MPPT controllers, they presumably cannot run at the same time. I intend to add a DC isolation switch on the solar input and add a transfer switch (1-0-2). The intention is to be able to switch solar input to either EcoFlow or van leisure battery. While I appreciate the solar panel EcoFlow charging will likely be a lengthy process, it will be handy to have that option available.

As a backup, I have also bought a 100w Renogy suitcase solar panel, which can connect directly to the EcoFlow to provide simultaneous charging.......

Jeez, that's 300Ah of battery capacity, plus (I'm assuming) a decent sized panel, 200w or more?

 

[roadtripper]

Both systems, van and EcoFlow having independent MPPT controllers, they presumably cannot run at the same time. I intend to add a DC isolation switch on the solar input and add a transfer switch (1-0-2). The intention is to be able to switch solar input to either EcoFlow or van leisure battery. While I appreciate the solar panel EcoFlow charging will likely be a lengthy process, it will be handy to have that option available.

Your EcoFlow should be able to charge at 15A if you fool it into using a solar charge limit. That's 180w so about the same as a 200w panel under optimum conditions.

Rather than the bulk and complexity of switches I'd just feed the EcoFlow via a cable from your main leisure battery on the days you can't deploy the additional 100w Renogy panels (those are a good idea though to boost overall generation)

 

[Jeff G]

@TallPaul_S .... The conversion is basically an upgrade of my Hillside stock setup. Solar panel will be a german made 180w? panel. I have had to sacrifice a bit of cupboard space as the solar isolator and the transfer switch are bulky items. However, most of the Hillside electrical installation is contained within that same cupboard so wiring won't be too much of an issue. The Roamer battery is the under seat version which will have the Victron DC/DC controller 240v charger and Shunt alongside, or under the driver seat. Cables need to be upgraded in size but I am hoping the conversion will suit my needs. I have tried to keep it simple and easily recognisable regarding electrical layout. Conversion is due to be completed on 4th Aug.

@roadtripper ... Thanks for your suggestions. I will look into it a bit further.

 

[TallPaul_S]

@TallPaul_S .... The conversion is basically an upgrade of my Hillside stock setup. Solar panel will be a german made 180w? panel. I have had to sacrifice a bit of cupboard space as the solar isolator and the transfer switch are bulky items. However, most of the Hillside electrical installation is contained within that same cupboard so wiring won't be too much of an issue. The Roamer battery is the under seat version which will have the Victron DC/DC controller 240v charger and Shunt alongside, or under the driver seat. Cables need to be upgraded in size but I am hoping the conversion will suit my needs. I have tried to keep it simple and easily recognisable regarding electrical layout. Conversion is due to be completed on 4th Aug.

@roadtripper ... Thanks for your suggestions. I will look into it a bit further.

Sounds good - tbh unless you're a heavy user then you're likely to have some (or a lot!) of solar going wasted so it might be prudent to set the ecoflow to charge from the MPPT load output, or at very least, directly from the 230Ah battery. This will mean it'll get topped up when your main battery is already full at 10am and you've got 150w of solar doing nothing!

 

[Jeff G]

@TallPaul_S ... Points taken! When out and about I suppose I could have periods of heavy use.

Regarding surplus energy from the solar, I am also looking into the 'Ablemail' reverse charger.. This is to help offset the power drain I see from the BM6 attached to the starter battery. I have a Thinkware U3000 dash cam with rear camera, Meta-Trak tracker and immobiliser. These all run from the starter battery as a 24hr continuous drain so I do see losses if the van is not used for a while. Each is set to power down if the starter battery falls below a certain voltage level. Luckily, I have had no issues so far.

The reverse charger will hopefully counteract that starter battery discharge. The solar will also support those items connected to the starter battery, via the trickle charge. Most of my use is away from EHU source so I hope in having the additional power to support the fridge, diesel heating and stand alone internet router, plus lighting, will be sufficient.

I suppose time will tell if it works!

 

[TallPaul_S]

I've just installed a Fogstar 230Ah seatbase battery and also have the Ablemail AMT12-2 - it works really well! I've left mine on setting 4 (default) so that it'll top up the SB regardless of whether the LB is being charged. I figured I've got 200+ Ah of capacity sitting in the LB so a few Ah going to the SB won't hurt.

It should keep the SB around 12.3v all the time. My van can sit for 2 weeks not being used and I've seen the SB drop to 12v quite often.