T6 Caravelle electric sliding and latching door dead - please help

[Aron]

Caravelle T6 sliding door stopped working this morning

Complete dead

Electric sliding and latching

Checked 2 40amp fuses under the passenger seat - both ok

Left door fuse is getting around 11v with ignition on

Right door fuse is getting around 6v

No communication with door via VCDS

No issues before and very low mileage T6.

Anything else to look at?

 

[Aron]

Check voltaged voltage again and incoming is 12v and when fused drops to 4.5v. Is it door controller or motor?

 

[roadtripper]

If you are getting different voltages across a fuse then I'd strongly suspect the fuse - they should be very low resistance.

Oddly enough some folks have had success with the slider doors of just disconnecting the door controller from power for a few days and then reconnecting it - it seems to ensure it reboots.

 

[Aron]

Sorry checked without fuse.

Door controller in the back near wheel arch?

 

[n10n]

Oddly enough some folks have had success with the slider doors of just disconnecting the door controller from power for a few days and then reconnecting it - it seems to ensure it reboots.

I can testify this to be true. Though I went over the top and kept the fuse off for couple of months

 

[Aron]

I can testify this to be true. Though I went over the top and kept the fuse off for couple of months

Was yours completely dead?

 

[roadtripper]

Power-closing door problem

Yesterday my electric slider (ie it has both slider motor and soft close) refused to work with button blinking. I had OBDeleven with me and got the following code: I was able to operate the door manually though so not a real issue although the door is pretty heavy to use with motors...

www.t6forum.com

 

[roadtripper]

I was just linking to your thread @n10n

Can't claim the credit for the original fix but I remember linking the two threads!

 

[n10n]

Was yours completely dead?

No. Intermittent sliding motor not working and yellow light flashing on the button.

 

[Aron]

Thank you.

No blinking lights or VCDS communication with the door at all. It's stuck at open position so can't even close the back as soft close is stuck at open position. Never had issues before.

 

[n10n]

I had the same issue with soft close. As long as the fuse was in place could not close the door. Fuse out and worked manually. Heavy to operate but worked.

 

[n10n]

incoming is 12v and when fused drops to 4.5v.

Have a clamp meter? If you do, check the current from fuse wire.

Anyway keep the fuse off for now except when testing, might even burn something. Or at least kill the battery.

 

[n10n]

Door controller in the back near wheel arch?

Both controller and sliding motor are near wheel arch

Power-closing door problems

Hi help needed with power sliding doors. I’ve checked all forums without being able to the fault. Van: T6.1, 2020, Combi. NS door, dash light flashing. Checked the 1.27 ohms on the trap sensor strip ok. Changed over the control units between doors, not the issue. Cleaned rails, no good. When I...

www.t6forum.com

 

[Pauly]

if you don’t have a 12v supply to the door system then it’s never going to work
If you are dropping voltage across the fuse then that is the very first thing you need to address, anything else is a waste of time until you get power back in the system

 

[Aron]

Checked under the seat and all ok, getting 11.7v at pink plug PIN3

Cluster is also not showing as door being open .

 

[Aron]

Fault found:

 

[Aron]

Door controller 7E0 959 243D required.

No stock in UK, on back order

 

[n10n]

Good stuff, well done!

Was it hard to get at? I've only had the cards off couple of times but never looked into if the heater blocks the access to door control module / motor

 

[Aron]

Had to drop exhaust and lift rear blower, proper pain in the back.

Rear panels need to be removed, not the door card.

 

[n10n]

Had to drop exhaust and lift rear blower, proper pain in the back.

Ouch... thanks, good to be prepared in case I ever have to go tinkering there

Rear panels need to be removed, not the door card.

Yeah I meant the panel

Hmm my first thought looking at the pics was water damage but after staring couple of mins I'm not sure anymore, almost looks just like a burned component / bad soldering and that the fumes would have left the markings also on the exterior of the CU housing