Of course, thanks!Personally I would go 13 pin. It has more capabilities and future proofs the towing electrics.
Of course, thanks!Personally I would go 13 pin. It has more capabilities and future proofs the towing electrics.
I asked question 2 at Exploria (Brighouse) and they recommended a second rear camera fitted onto the bike rack itself.Firstly thanks everyone @here for taking the time to post feedback and pics, much appreciated!
Thanks to your help it looks like I'll be going for the Atera STRADA DL 3 for my T6.1 (tailgate). Right now I have the 4-bike VW rack and physically I'm unable to lift a 25Kg bike up that far.
I'll need to get a towbar fitted too, so ... two questions if I may:
1) Do I really need a detachable towbar to keep the parking sensors working when the rack is unmounted? Or is this just raising extra revenue for the vendor?
2) The T6.1 also has the factory-fitted reversing camera. Is there *any* chance I'll have a usable image with a bike mounted on the rack?
I can't visualise where the rack and bike will stand vertically on the van, to work out whether it'll cover the camera. Knowing my luck ...
Ah, so coding the electrics correctly means the reversing screen is basically disabled, key bit of info, thanks!I put a Witter fixed flange commercial tow bar on my T6, partly because I'm a skinflint and partly because I want to fit a flange mounted motorcycle carrier. They fitted at home in about 3 hours, did the the necessary wiring, software and coding updates, and fitted an OEM bumper support (£30 and needed if your van isn't trailer prepped). It causes no problems whatsoever with the reversing sensors and I don't have a camera so that's not an issue.
Fitting the Atera rack to the van and loading bikes takes me no more than 10mins and disables the sensors so the reversing screen shows you have a trailer attached. It's as easy as falling off a bike - wait scrub that bit...
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Can the 13-pin electrics handle the signal from the second camera? Might that be how it works? (Thanks for your patience, I’m completely new to this!)I asked question 2 at Exploria (Brighouse) and they recommended a second rear camera fitted onto the bike rack itself.
If Exploria are offering a second camera as a solution, then I'm confident it's doable. However, I didn't ask them how they were intending to make it to work - sorry.Can the 13-pin electrics handle the signal from the second camera? Might that be how it works? (Thanks for your patience, I’m completely new to this!)
Ah, so coding the electrics correctly means the reversing screen is basically disabled, key bit of info, thanks!
Thanks once again @Wholigan, the towbar fitters I've been in touch with mentioned the bumper support too, so that gives me a little extra confidence in their abilitiesIndeed. the coding/software update makes the van recognise there's something plugged into the rear socket, disables the reversing sensors and tells you it thinks there's a trailer attached when you select reverse. It should also let you know if any of the bulbs have blown in the rack/trailer. The Witter wiring also has it's own fuses and is presented near the van's battery so may not look as "integral" as the VW OEM fitment. However, I believe some other 3rd party tow bars put a separate fuse box under the drivers seat which struck me as a pain in the posterior
If your van isn't VW trailer prepped then it will probably need a VW bumper support. When they fit the tow bar they may have to take out the existing support which would leave the top of the bumper quite flexible, so, for example, it won't like being stood on (like I do to clean the roof)
This little modification has saved us a huge headache. 10 minute job and now I can open the tailgate fully with the bike rack on. Thanks for pointing this out!@Spaghetti. By coincidence, I posted this on Saturday.
@Ayjay @MarkS I sort of understand what you have done mod wise to the easyfold rack, but if you have a picture or two to show more clearly it would be gratefully appreciated and helpful.@Spaghetti. By coincidence, I posted this on Saturday.
Thanks for taking the time to reply @Ayjay however the pics don’t seem to have attached correctly. I don’t think it’s just on my devices. Can anyone else confirm these pictures have not downloaded correctly?@huxwar. Photos as promised. The two important ones are 1st and 2nd. The 1st shows the small amount of clearance (about 8mm!) allowing the tailgate to open (you didn't say what van or towbar you had but mine's a T6 with Westfalia Detachable). The 2nd picture shows the bolts (marked 1 - on each side) which need to be taken out to get the top section of the rack off which then allows you to take the thick plastic bungs / stops out to cut the ends off of them (marked 2 - on each side). When I did it, I first cut them in half but it wasn't enough - there's about 9mm left now. I first got the idea from some YouTubers (California Time, I think) but they just removed them completely. I didn't do that as I thought they played a part in stopping the bolts from being over-tightened and crushing the tubes. Hope this helps but If you want anything else, just shout.
Correct - they're just broken links.Thanks for taking the time to reply @Ayjay however the pics don’t seem to have attached correctly. I don’t think it’s just on my devices. Can anyone else confirm these pictures have not downloaded correctly?
i have same setup as in, t6 tailgate with detachable westfalia