Can I ask where you got the amp from?
ALso there is a very knowledgeable forum on facebook, you could ask on there, But I think the USS$ will solve the problem.
Wiring up an amplifier confusion/ problem.
- Thread starter Skyliner33
- Start date
ALso there is a very knowledgeable forum on facebook, you could ask on there, But I think the USS$ will solve the problem.
I got the amp from Absolut5. It is their standard ”signature audio“ set up that I am installing. I was going to give Jason at Absolut a call tomorrow but saw your thread so thought I’d try here in case I had missed something.
Many on here have installed the system without issue so is was wondering if the issue was particular to my set up. I have VW Discovery Media head unit.
I have confirmed the amp now comes alive via the “remote in“ on the bench but now need to confirm it plays sound when alive in the van. Hopefully, I’ll get chance tomorrow to test this.
I’ll also research the USS4. Thanks for the pointers
Many on here have installed the system without issue so is was wondering if the issue was particular to my set up. I have VW Discovery Media head unit.
I have confirmed the amp now comes alive via the “remote in“ on the bench but now need to confirm it plays sound when alive in the van. Hopefully, I’ll get chance tomorrow to test this.
I’ll also research the USS4. Thanks for the pointers
yep sounds good . . follow the guide . .
wire the Vans radio OUTPUT speaker feeds - to the AMPS FRONT HIGH LEVEL INPUT
Connect the vans front left / right door speakers - to the AMPS FRONT SPEARKER OUTPUTS
Conect POS and NEGfor the amp.
SET AMP ART switch to ON
power up radio and turn up volume . .
get a sperate speaker with you to test the radio is outputing audio by tapping a speaker across the feeds coming from the head unit.
I think the RADIO tests the speaker outputs on evey IGN cycle and every time the radio is switched on . . . .
as you say . . . look for the audio sound & AC voltage here going into the AMP.
with a test speaker or a multimeter.... make sure the AMP stays connected. just tapp it on for a quick test.
if you have a good signal then the amp should turn on . .
if you have NO SIGNAL, the radio may have detected a problem with the speaker circuit and disabled the channels output.
do the same test when you apply a 12v pos REMOTE signal too.
.
with a test speaker or a multimeter.... make sure the AMP stays connected. just tapp it on for a quick test.
if you have a good signal then the amp should turn on . .
if you have NO SIGNAL, the radio may have detected a problem with the speaker circuit and disabled the channels output.
do the same test when you apply a 12v pos REMOTE signal too.
.
I like the diagrams Dell...you are definitely quick in the draw (pun intended).
You have me thinking though. Does the VW Factory Radio shut down channels IF it detects a problem? If so this may be why there is no sound through the amp (and why the amp is not switching on using ART).
The speakers all work fine when driven from the head unit (Radio).
When I plug the RADIO into the amp the speakers are silent - although the selected track is showing on the RADIO screen
This is with ART on
When I bench test the amp using the Remote In then it fires up
Tomorrow I will recheck and confirm all connections
confirm whether I get sound when wiring Remote In direct to 12V ( which does switch the amp is on)
measure AC voltage at the RADIO speaker connector ends (although as there is sound when connected directly then there will be voltage).
I got the amp from Absolut5. It is their standard ”signature audio“ set up that I am installing. I was going to give Jason at Absolut a call tomorrow but saw your thread so thought I’d try here in case I had missed something.
Many on here have installed the system without issue so is was wondering if the issue was particular to my set up. I have VW Discovery Media head unit.
I have confirmed the amp now comes alive via the “remote in“ on the bench but now need to confirm it plays sound when alive in the van. Hopefully, I’ll get chance tomorrow to test this.
I’ll also research the USS4. Thanks for the pointers
I'm sure Jason will have the answer. Out of interest what speakers did you go for?
Make sure to post the solution here please. I would like to know how you solve it.
I went for the Nertz Mille Pro MPK 165.3 fronts with the JL Audio 10 V3 Sub.
Will definitely post the resolution here once I find it.
Cheers
Will definitely post the resolution here once I find it.
Cheers
Quick update.... I tested the amp by connecting the “Remote In” to 12V feed and the Amp switched on and played music.
If I disconnect Remote In the the amp turns off.
If I now switch ART on the Light on top turns Red - this is new and I haven’t had this before. This indicates that there may be a fault (Audison engineer picture in the manual).
I spoke to Jason at Absolut and he confirmed this amp has an internal USS4 sensing switch so that is not necessary. He also stated that these amps are ”bullet proof”.
I am think there is a fault with the ART switch on the AMP.
If I disconnect Remote In the the amp turns off.
If I now switch ART on the Light on top turns Red - this is new and I haven’t had this before. This indicates that there may be a fault (Audison engineer picture in the manual).
I spoke to Jason at Absolut and he confirmed this amp has an internal USS4 sensing switch so that is not necessary. He also stated that these amps are ”bullet proof”.
I am think there is a fault with the ART switch on the AMP.
so what about a full power down of the amp to reset it...
then set the ART switch on . . . then a full power up and test . . . Does the RED fault light come on?
or does it just not power up unless the+12v REMOTE is applied?
whats Absolute saying? . . . .not a faulty amp surley?
then set the ART switch on . . . then a full power up and test . . . Does the RED fault light come on?
or does it just not power up unless the+12v REMOTE is applied?
whats Absolute saying? . . . .not a faulty amp surley?
Full power down and then on with the ART switch on (as per above) leads to no light - nothing - nada.
If I power up with the Remote In - it works. If I then switch ART on I get the RED light.
One test I want to try is bench test with a separate independent head unit. I need to borrow one and try it. Just to rule out any funky issues with my VW Discover Media.
Absolute say they have never seen a faulty amp but of course will replace under warranty if it is. The problem is I will need to send it back for them to test so will be without it for a while so want to rule out as much as I can first.
Cheers
If I power up with the Remote In - it works. If I then switch ART on I get the RED light.
One test I want to try is bench test with a separate independent head unit. I need to borrow one and try it. Just to rule out any funky issues with my VW Discover Media.
Absolute say they have never seen a faulty amp but of course will replace under warranty if it is. The problem is I will need to send it back for them to test so will be without it for a while so want to rule out as much as I can first.
Cheers
it might also be worth running it passed the tech support team . . a direct email and also via the web contact form . . . cant hurt?
they might know something we dont?
www.audison.eu
they might know something we dont?
Audison - Car Audio Amplifiers, Speakers, Processors
Car audio DSP amplifiers, speakers, and subwoofers. Go beyond the ordinary solutions that are where our instinct comes in.
www.audison.eu
good idea . .
could you take the amp inside and run it off a car battery? . . . then connect to your home stereo speaker feeds?
or
just run a long cable out from your home stereo out to the van and the amp input?
or
just play some MP3 on your phone . . . then use a 3.5mm stereo lead and cut the end off? - (signal may be very low, depending on ur phone output level?)
Hi Dell
I can run the amp inside as I have a CTEK with 12V supply, I just wanted to run it on an actual car stereo so it was most like for like. I think I might have sourced one so will hopefully be able to try both tests tomorrow (with 3rd party car stereo and/or house stereo).
I’ll also ping audison direct and see if they reply.
Will update my findings here...
I can run the amp inside as I have a CTEK with 12V supply, I just wanted to run it on an actual car stereo so it was most like for like. I think I might have sourced one so will hopefully be able to try both tests tomorrow (with 3rd party car stereo and/or house stereo).
I’ll also ping audison direct and see if they reply.
Will update my findings here...
SOLVED....
It’s amazing how possible solutions/idea come to you at 3am in the morning...
SOLUTION...
Ensure their is a common earth between the head unit and the amp power inputs.
Here was my mistake...As I have the van in bits to fit the upgraded stereo I obviously wanted to test the setup before putting everything back together. In order to test I connecting the amp directly to the leisure battery positive and negative posts. But, of course the battery had been disconnected from the chassis earth.
The Head unit which is sending RMS voltage into the amp to trigger the ART function (auto switch on) is obviously earth earthed via the chassis so there was no common earth between the input power supply of the amp and the ART switch. I had inadvertently created two isolated circuits through the amp.
Obviously, this is why the amp worked when I connected the Remote In as this switch shared the earth with the Leisure Battery.
Lessoned learned: Sometimes its the simplest things that create problems for yourself and much head scratching.
Thanks to @Skyliner33 and @Dellmassive for trying to help solve a problem of my own creating.
....as always, if there is no picture it never happened.
It’s amazing how possible solutions/idea come to you at 3am in the morning...
SOLUTION...
Ensure their is a common earth between the head unit and the amp power inputs.
Here was my mistake...As I have the van in bits to fit the upgraded stereo I obviously wanted to test the setup before putting everything back together. In order to test I connecting the amp directly to the leisure battery positive and negative posts. But, of course the battery had been disconnected from the chassis earth.
The Head unit which is sending RMS voltage into the amp to trigger the ART function (auto switch on) is obviously earth earthed via the chassis so there was no common earth between the input power supply of the amp and the ART switch. I had inadvertently created two isolated circuits through the amp.
Obviously, this is why the amp worked when I connected the Remote In as this switch shared the earth with the Leisure Battery.
Lessoned learned: Sometimes its the simplest things that create problems for yourself and much head scratching.
Thanks to @Skyliner33 and @Dellmassive for trying to help solve a problem of my own creating.
....as always, if there is no picture it never happened.
Glad you sussed it and thanks for posting the solution.
LOL . . . . oh dear!!! (#burry head in hands)
such a simple mistake/issue . . . im glad you have it sorted now.
and just goes to show how important pics can be in remote fault finding . . . and how assumptions should never be made. !
at no point did i assume that the AMP, Radio, Leisure and starter battery would be in bits and that a common ground may NOT have existed. . . i assumed that the amp was being powered from either a fitted leisure battery or starter battery feed. (that was installed and working)
that pic above would have run alarm bells and provoked a few questions as to why the amp was being powered off a jumper clamp . . . LOL . .
lesson learned by all i think.
such a simple mistake/issue . . . im glad you have it sorted now.
and just goes to show how important pics can be in remote fault finding . . . and how assumptions should never be made. !
at no point did i assume that the AMP, Radio, Leisure and starter battery would be in bits and that a common ground may NOT have existed. . . i assumed that the amp was being powered from either a fitted leisure battery or starter battery feed. (that was installed and working)
that pic above would have run alarm bells and provoked a few questions as to why the amp was being powered off a jumper clamp . . . LOL . .
lesson learned by all i think.
Actually the jumpers were part of the solution not the problem as they are connected to the CTEK 25 which is now providing 12V supply and from the pic below you can see the NOW COMMON ground.
It was when I was running off the leisure battery (removed from pic) that I didn’t have a common ground.
But still a school boy error and maybe useful for others in the future.
It was when I was running off the leisure battery (removed from pic) that I didn’t have a common ground.
But still a school boy error and maybe useful for others in the future.
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