Battery cable crimping tool recommendation please

next up is this beauty . . . my first port of call and go to large crimper.

it will crimp most large lugs and crimps . . . . if it fits on the gap . . . it will crimp it.

I've have some tough crimps before . . . and even with 15stone leaning down on it its not broke.

its big at 13 inches long.

this is the most used crimper for large cables.

i cant remember where i got it from now . . . but been using it a couple of years now.


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next up . .
 
next up is the other daily driver . . . .

if im not usning the yellow set above im using these . .

the good old HS-16 crimper . . . 1.5-16 mm² (15-5AWG)


i use these for everything else . . . Andersons, but connectors . . etc etc etc . . . i even used them for the red,blue,yellow crimps.

love them . . . . and they work great. - everyone who does some electricals should have a set of these.


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If you‘re not an electrician it’s probably not going to get much use.
I picked up a good quality almost new item on Ebay at a fraction of the new price, there was plenty of choice.
 
Those cheap hydraulic ones work but fiddly. I had to use next size down dies as @Dellmassive says not a tight crimp so be careful. I've used hydraulic tools for cables to 300mm2 so a good set works well. The hand held ratchet type work well also. You really need to try them to see if they work well or get a decent set from a electrical wholesalers. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
On the back of this thread..... Does anyone use soft solder rather than crimp... I’m about to re cable my solar panels using Anderson Powerpole connectors and watched a YouTube Australian clip ....didn’t realise how easy ....but is it a better conducive joint :)

ps My solar setup is mobile and find the MC4 connectors don’t like being pulled apart
 
It is surprising the amount of solder that will wick into a crimped joint, it shows how the corrosion can start.
 
an interesting watch re-soldering lugs








hyro crimp + solder (Marine)





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next up is this beauty . . . my first port of call and go to large crimper.

it will crimp most large lugs and crimps . . . . if it fits on the gap . . . it will crimp it.

I've have some tough crimps before . . . and even with 15stone leaning down on it its not broke.

its big at 13 inches long.

this is the most used crimper for large cables.

i cant remember where i got it from now . . . but been using it a couple of years now.


View attachment 105191View attachment 105192

next up . .
Dellmassive, I suppose you dont happen to have a supplier for this crimper do you...??????
 
sure . . . .

basically same thing . . .




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Thanks matey.... I did put the letters and number on the smaller pic of the head into google but came up with nothing... and also looked through the images on google...saw loads of various kinds but not the exact ones... but if this is the same thing... then I will get one ordered... cheers.... Boysan..
 
Couple of points on crimping ...

If crimped properly there is no space inside the crimp for solder to wick into ... therefore it wicks up inside the wire instead.

Cross-section of a good crimp looks like this ....

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Solder wicking up the wire creates stress points in the conductors and can lead to premature failure.

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Soldering before crimping means your conductor no longer has the correct cross sectional area for the crimp, and the compression characteristics of the conductors are changed, so the crimp tool will most probably damage either the connector, the conductors, or both.

Always use the correct connector for the wire size and a good quality crimp tool is all that is required. In the aeronautical industry, and the automotive industry, crimp connections are never soldered.

There is a use-case for soldering when the wire is connected directly to a device, but If it is a removeable connection, it should be crimped.
 
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