Bollocks. Sheared my brake line. Any idea how much this is going to cost me??

da_murphster

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My discs and pads were low so used the excuse to upgrade to 340mm front discs.

Bought nice shiny brake lines to use but have managed to shear my lines attempting to remove the rubber ones.

How much of a nightmare is this going to be?

In hind sight I think changing the rubber lines is more hassle than it’s worth, they all seem like they are going to be impossible to undo without breaking the hard lines 😞

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You should replace that section of brake line, and it looks like the section goes between the wheel and the brake ABS unit:
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You can cut the pipe, pop over a brake tube nut and then flare over the end of the pipe. Then make up a small section of pipe and piece it in. Only issue being, you'd have to beg, borrow or steal the tool for doing the job.

You could replace the whole pipe as @manfrotto has pointed out, but that could be a nightmare feeding the pipe into position.
 
You can cut the pipe, pop over a brake tube nut and then flare over the end of the pipe. Then make up a small section of pipe and piece it in. Only issue being, you'd have to beg, borrow or steal the tool for doing the job.

You could replace the whole pipe as @manfrotto has pointed out, but that could be a nightmare feeding the pipe into position.
Yep, It will depend on how hard it is to feed a new pipe in.
I'm not sure about MoT requirements in UK, but would suspect a join may be questionable. Also doing the flaring (double flare required) might be quite difficult in situ, so will be a matter of weighing up the options.
 
A joint is perfectly acceptable - many vehicles have them from the factory to aid assembly.

There are lots of kits on ebay with pipe, male fittings, female fittings and straight connectors.

Just need a flare tool!

I’ve changed most of the brake lines on my 996 911 and was pleasantly surprised how reasonably priced the rigid brake lines were from the dealers - all the bends in the right places!
 
MOT wise a joint is fine. You have no option with some cars as the pipes are installed before engine, suspension etc.
 
Did you hold the metal end of the hose (spanner / grips) when trying to undo the brake pipe nut? I find the once its cracked working backwards and forwards for a few goes frees the nut rather than just winding it straight out.
 
I bought this kit when I was doing double flares on my Boxster. It was easier than I expected to make a flare on the hard lines, while they were attached to the car. Practice on the new stuff first. The kit also has a bending tool and some joins.

 
Did you hold the metal end of the hose (spanner / grips) when trying to undo the brake pipe nut? I find the once its cracked working backwards and forwards for a few goes frees the nut rather than just winding it straight out.

The video I watched showed the nut being loose on the end of the hard line - mine are all very much solid.

Now too worried to replace the others.

I have a garage a few hundred metres away so going to get it there and hopefully they can fix easily/quickly.

Another one of those classic moments when me trying to save £100 or so diy-ing takes forever and costs me a fortune
 
How did you go with the garage down the road?
I had a quick look at mine and it actually looks like feeding a complete new brake line section would work, especially if it is the passenger side front.
The Hydraulic connection box is on that side in the engine bay with plenty of clearance around it.
 
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