Brake Discs + Pad replacement

[Badjamin]

I need to replace my brake pads. Can anyone recommend a standard (i think) set of pads for a 2018 T30? I'm gonna have to try DIY it I think. Is a set of pads all I need or do I need special tools? I have an anti clockwise caliper rewind tool, break cleaner, copper slip and some silicone lube. I think I need a 9mm allan key?

Quote for brakes ;

Front brakes,
£119.95 +VAT If we just need to change break pads
£297.45 +VAT If we need to do discs and pads

Rear Breaks,
£114.95+VAT If we just need to change break pads
£277.45+VAT If we need to change discs and pads

 

[Paynewright]

I’ve just done the rears on my T30 and used my Ford Sierra wind back tool which winds in clockwise.

I clamped the rubber hose off with a plastic clamp, undone the bleed nipple then wound the piston in. This avoids any crud getting pushed back to the master cyl / abs.

I had to re-use the caliper bolts as no new ones with the pads - These have been supplied when changed on previous VW group vehicles. These needed a dab of loctite.

Rotary wire brush in the cordless drill to clean up the wheel mounting face / collar.

Not sure what the silicon spray is for? I’d avoid getting it anywhere near brakes!

 

[keith baker]

Just did my fronts this May. Relatively straightforward but the caliper bolts took a lot of shifting. I got my pads and discs from A&E Motorsport.

 

[sparkzer]

I recall answering much the same question a few months ago...to save me repeating myself ill copy the link, there is probably other info in the thread that will be of interest - Brake Cost Replacement

 

[Badjamin]

I’ve just done the rears on my T30 and used my Ford Sierra wind back tool which winds in clockwise.

I clamped the rubber hose off with a plastic clamp, undone the bleed nipple then wound the piston in. This avoids any crud getting pushed back to the master cyl / abs.

I had to re-use the caliper bolts as no new ones with the pads - These have been supplied when changed on previous VW group vehicles. These needed a dab of loctite.

Rotary wire brush in the cordless drill to clean up the wheel mounting face / collar.

Not sure what the silicon spray is for? I’d avoid getting it anywhere near brakes!

Silicone lube was for slide pins on my mondeo not sure if I need it on a T6. So clamping brake line is new to me. Not sure if I'm comfortable takin off brake hose though so will just try windin piston back in with master cylinder vented - if it'll wind anticlockwise. Maybe justba squeeeeeze with a ratchet clamp...

 

[Badjamin]

I recall answering much the same question a few months ago...to save me repeating myself ill copy the link, there is probably other info in the thread that will be of interest - Brake Cost Replacement

Thanks for this

 

[Badjamin]

I recall answering much the same question a few months ago...to save me repeating myself ill copy the link, there is probably other info in the thread that will be of interest - Brake Cost Replacement

It's a good thread but am wanting recommendations on pads as am lookin on ebay and thinkin... maybe I should check in wi the lads... your link has me pondering maybe checkin halfords too though

I’ve just done the rears on my T30 and used my Ford Sierra wind back tool which winds in clockwise.

I clamped the rubber hose off with a plastic clamp, undone the bleed nipple then wound the piston in. This avoids any crud getting pushed back to the master cyl / abs.

I had to re-use the caliper bolts as no new ones with the pads - These have been supplied when changed on previous VW group vehicles. These needed a dab of loctite.

Rotary wire brush in the cordless drill to clean up the wheel mounting face / collar.

Not sure what the silicon spray is for? I’d avoid getting it anywhere near brakes!

Where'd you get your pads?

 

[Paynewright]

Opie oils Bosch brand pads though I think ECP / GSF are reasonable - just go for a brand you recognise like brembo, pagid, mintex

I’ve always avoided EBC after a poor experience 40 years ago so possibly ill founded now!

 

[Paynewright]

The plastic hose clamps are about a tenner and you’re just pumping out the surplus fluid in the caliper via the bleed nipple. Clamped off stops dirty fluid going back up the pipe and air getting in as you wind the piston back in.

Its definitely clockwise to wind it back in! No need to remove the hose - just clamp it and open the bleed nipple like you would bleeding the brakes. Sounds complicated but fairly straightforward.

 

[Paynewright]

Hilka Pro-Craft Hose Clamps 3 Pieces - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Lightweight with single-handed locking mechanism. Round, non-conductive jaw edges to prevent damage to hoses. Ideal for use on most flexible hose lines such as brakes, fuel, coolant, heater and radiators. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[Hilly64]

Hilka Pro-Craft Hose Clamps 3 Pieces - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Lightweight with single-handed locking mechanism. Round, non-conductive jaw edges to prevent damage to hoses. Ideal for use on most flexible hose lines such as brakes, fuel, coolant, heater and radiators. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Good link. I have mine to do T32 so the bigger front disks. Pads and new disks sitting in garage after VW said they were on the limit .... guess what they are not! worn yes but a few thousand left and fronts probably at 50%. I will grab some of the above as better than using mole grips

in the past I have just pushed fluid back into the reservoir and collected over spill but the idea of just letting it bleed out makes sense

To the original OP - I looked at Euro Car Parts etc and prices vary but in the end went to Nutexa Frictions Ltd. They are trade members on here and usually offer a discount to forum members. Have some very good reviews and their customer service was excellent. Product looks good but not got round to fitting yet

Not sure how to post a link but dive onto their web site

 

[Bigsidavies]

I’ve recently done my rears and used the discs and pads from Nutexa who feature on here. I’m very pleased with them. The discs have a high carbon content and don’t get surface rust even when the van stands for a week or more. Can’t really say they have improved braking performance as the rears do so little.
However, good quality, British made and cost £150 for rear discs and pads next day delivery. Came with the caliper bolts too.

Hello from Russ & Jan @Nutexa Frictions Ltd

Just a quick hello from myself and my Wife Jan, between us we run Nutexa Performance Brakes, specialising in brake discs/pads & big brake kits for VW commercial vehicles and VAG cars. we can also remanufacture old worn clutches, and make new uprated clutches for remapped vans and cars. I've...

www.t6forum.com

 

[Badjamin]

Let me get this straight in my miniscule brain. If i clamp the break hose and open the bleed nipple, when I wind the piston back in, the tiny volume of break fluid between the piston and the nipple will be forced out through the nipple. No air will get back in so no bleeding required...

 

[Paynewright]

Correct - clamp, open the bleed nipple, wind it in, tighten bleed nipple.

I’d have all your kit ready to go incl bit of tube and a bottle for the waste fluid. I wouldn’t go make a brew mid process but open long enough to wind the piston in is fine.

 

[DXX]

No air will get back in so no bleeding required...

I would recommend bleeding, it’s no extra work as is changing the brake fluid.
Not one of the jobs to get wrong or miss steps.
You have VIP membership, the manual is available to download.
The caliper bracket bolts need to renewed not re-used as they are stretch bolts.
Torque settings need to be followed.
Brake disc wear needs to be measured.
Disc run out should be checked with a DTI whether they are renewed or not.

 

[Badjamin]

I would recommend bleeding, it’s no extra work as is changing the brake fluid.
Not one of the jobs to get wrong or miss steps.
You have VIP membership, the manual is available to download.
The caliper bracket bolts need to renewed not re-used as they are stretch bolts.
Torque settings need to be followed.
Brake disc wear needs to be measured.
Disc run out should be checked with a DTI whether they are renewed or not.

I have none digital vernier callipers and no torque wrench... and am getting overwhelm...

Will have to get this all figured out somehow and formulate a plan.

Thanks to all

 

[DXX]

I have none digital vernier callipers and no torque wrench... and am getting overwhelm...

Will have to get this all figured out somehow and formulate a plan.

Thanks to all

The costs of running a vehicle need to be considered when purchasing, especially a needy T6.
Tools are a good investment and the £12 for VIP membership is cheap access to the necessary info’.

 

[Badjamin]

Thanks DXX. I obviously considered the costs. However, I didn't budget for an £800 outlay in the 1st month - this is after purchasing ghost The van is off the road til payday. I have already got VIP membership so no need to sell it to me.

Will hopefully have this sorted out soon and more tools .

Thanks once again to all for kind advice.

 

[Bigsidavies]

When I did my fronts I bought all the parts including torque wrench, axle stands, hydraulic jack, long 9mm(?) allen key and performance discs and pads for less than I was quoted by the garage just to do the swap.
Draper torque wrench from tool station is about £35.

 

[Drive Wayne]

I thought it was compulsory to have @Nutexa Frictions gear? Is it not a condition of membership? Are Russ and Jan back off their holidays yet? Lovely folk!