Can I use a DC to DC charger to provide higher voltages to DC charger? (aka using an all-in-one solar generator in a van install)

- There is actually an MPPT controller installed as it is in the instructions, but what I don't understand: I connected my solar panels in series, but only had half the power as a result? So about 25W. Connected in parallel they brought 50W. I am a trained electronics technician and know that the performance should NOT change, only the voltage / current ratio.
I think this reflects what we are finding, that the voltage you present affects the charging detection and it makes decisions about what it can pull, as it's a combined DC and MPPT input.

My remaining query on this is what happens if you use a solar panel that offers more than the 120W? Will it error and shut down charging or regulate the input and retain the maximum it can?
 
Should be fine, voltage is the only consideration. The internal battery charge cct will limit the current and therefore the VA
 
In which case, since this is my thread :cool: what rooftop solar panel should I spec to provide 100W+ on a English spring or autumn day?

I have, and will read the solar panel threads, so it's more the power / size to offer that, not the model
 
Last edited:
I bought the 120W PowerOak fold out panel for the PS6S, I got bored of looking and just bought their package!! I didn't want anything on my van roof as mine is a work van with occasional camper use. Looking at the PowerOak site the minimum spec solar panel they sell as a package with the PS5 is 120W going up to 200W. Maybe go middle of the road 160W. Can you buy specific panels for roof mounting on vehicles ?
 
i show a various collection of panels connected to the ALLPOWERS over here:

1st test.
Lensun 110W panel VOC @ 21.24V
not ideal sun but its taking it in. (upto 60W max i think)
tested VOC with a Multimeter and had 21.9v in full sun.
just saw 52W in . . .


**

Solar test #2

Renogy Foldable 100W (just the bair panel direct to ALLPOWERS - not using panels own controller)
VOC@23.6V
ISC@3.13A


**


Solar test #3

Renogy suitcase 100W (just the bare panel direct to ALLPOWERS - not using panels own controller)
VOC@21.6V
ISC@2x3.0A (6A)


**


Solar test #4

ACCOPOWER 50W (just the bare panel direct to ALLPOWERS - not using panels own controller)
VOC@21.3V
ISC@4x0.76A (3.04A)



**


Solar test #5

Lesnun 220W (2x 110w in parallel0

(just the bair panel direct to ALLPOWERS - not using panels own controller)

VOC@21.24V
ISC@13.44A (6.72A + 6.72A )




**

compressor fridge test:



**

3way absorption fridge test:



**

camping test:



**

storage bags:


**


camping test #2


**
 
this might be worth a look too . .


Bluetti AC200 - Solar Charging in February





.
 
That ain't a problem if it's on the roof, that's the direction I'm going
So..... Resuming this thread, but with a twist..

Having decided that the only sensible way to charge this pack is solar, I now find that a 24V system might be useful for making the most of the 300W available from the inverter.

This is because 24V appliances tend to offer useful outcomes in the 100-300W range (24V 250W kettle for ~£15 boils 0.5l in <15 mins) where 12V appliances tend to offer terrible outcomes in the 0-150W range (same kettle above can only pull 150W and takes 25mins).

Of course, a 240V kettle can pull 2-3kW and boil like at home.

So, what to do?

1. Go with the original plan A and get a 12V to 24V DC-DC converter running off the alternator. Can charge the leisure battery quickly when the engine's running and open up the possibility of 24V appliances using the engine as a generator. Easy to mount the DC-DC next to the battery and bring in a big 24V cable into the van. Have to run the engine to use 24V/ high power. £

2. Go with a bigger separate inverter and run the original AC battery charger that came with the battery pack as well as 240V appliances when the engine's running. Easy to switch to EHU when available. Downside is taking me straight back into classic underseat build and additional expense which I had avoided. £££

3. Get a 240V to 24V PSU which could offer up the full 300W from the built in inverter on the battery pack to 24V appliances. Leave the charging to solar or EHU when available. Remain limited to 300W but have useful appliances. ££

4. Put a 12V to 24V DC-DC converter as charging circuit from the alternator, or just rely on solar entirely for charging, whilst adding a new bigger inverter wired to the battery pack's lithium cells directly (jump-start lead output). I don't think the battery pack regulates this output, so it would need additional protection but would remove the 300W limit. ££

This is why these packs are not yet 100% the answer if you are a high power user, which I wasn't when the thread started! I think I know the answer after thinking out loud - heat water with gas?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top