Crankshaft seal no 2 has gone.

Unbelievable. What causes that belt to slip off ?
Defective tensioner, misalignment, damaged pulley, damaged belt, foreign object in the belt run....
@Niknak mentioned the alternator free wheeling clutch earlier in the thread, have they checked that?
 
@flyingging Here’s the belt check procedure:
F5B437BC-DB8A-4746-A52C-5A52E9E0C616.png3C0539C9-667F-4979-8FBF-25F3884BB050.png

Highly unlikely but a damaged AC compressor could also cause issues with the belt.
 
The latest is that somehow now the timing belt is out of time now and they're renewing that tomorrow ? Maybe bits of the auxiliary belt f... it up. Only drove 100mts with it broke. Was lucky to be so near home.
 
The latest is that somehow now the timing belt is out of time now and they're renewing that tomorrow ? Maybe bits of the auxiliary belt f... it up. Only drove 100mts with it broke. Was lucky to be so near home.
I think you should get on to VW Customer Services and complain by email, IMO it’s obvious that you don’t pay for the re-work but you should also get a partial refund on the original work that was obviously defective.
 
I think you should get on to VW Customer Services and complain by email, IMO it’s obvious that you don’t pay for the re-work but you should also get a partial refund on the original work that was obviously defective.
Definitely not paying more. It only lasted 20 miles at the most. They can't blame me for that !
 
Just reading this thread and some of @flyingging earlier posts and it looks like this engine has always used oil (quote - Mine used about 2 litres doing 20000 miles ! - 22 April 2017). If this has continued, then I'm considering that this is something that has failed much earlier in this engine's life. At what point was the first crank oil seal replaced (was this done at the cam belt change when your local independent garage realised it was leaking more than usual) and also what other engine maintenance has been done, including the fuel system?

I'm not convinced the crank will be bent, the movement is more likely to be the other main bearings wearing prematurely due to increased load allowing the crank to have more vertical movement a bit like a cantilever pivoting on No.5 main (this will most likely cause irregular wear on the big ends, small ends, piston skirts and thrust bearing). If the VW garage ever removes the sump again, I'd be asking for No.2 main bearing cap to be removed and the two bearing halves to be inspected to confirm the wear.

Something else to be aware of is that the rolled throughput yield (RTY) of engine plants is not as high as we, the consumer, would expect (I worked across the quality and engineering functions of one for 12 years) so their is a chance that your engine was subject to rework in the factory too.

The best advice I've seen on this thread is from @DXX - once it's working, get rid! If you don't end up with a new short or long engine, you'll just be waiting for the next internal failure.
 
Just reading this thread and some of @flyingging earlier posts and it looks like this engine has always used oil (quote - Mine used about 2 litres doing 20000 miles ! - 22 April 2017). If this has continued, then I'm considering that this is something that has failed much earlier in this engine's life. At what point was the first crank oil seal replaced (was this done at the cam belt change when your local independent garage realised it was leaking more than usual) and also what other engine maintenance has been done, including the fuel system?

I'm not convinced the crank will be bent, the movement is more likely to be the other main bearings wearing prematurely due to increased load allowing the crank to have more vertical movement a bit like a cantilever pivoting on No.5 main (this will most likely cause irregular wear on the big ends, small ends, piston skirts and thrust bearing). If the VW garage ever removes the sump again, I'd be asking for No.2 main bearing cap to be removed and the two bearing halves to be inspected to confirm the wear.

Something else to be aware of is that the rolled throughput yield (RTY) of engine plants is not as high as we, the consumer, would expect (I worked across the quality and engineering functions of one for 12 years) so their is a chance that your engine was subject to rework in the factory too.

The best advice I've seen on this thread is from @DXX - once it's working, get rid! If you don't end up with a new short or long engine, you'll just be waiting for the next internal failure.
My engine has been good as gold until this drama. It's all back together and running nicely at the moment. I'd lose too much money selling. It's a tatty 4wd kombi. I use my vehicles. That's why i bought it but i have been particularly nice to the engine. No abuse there. The original guy was right and his idea was that i could get something from vw so he gave it back but of course vw say he's not a vw mechanic and tough. I'll put together a letter to vw soon as the whole saga cost nearly £2000. I thought my next van would be a hybrid as diesels will be outlawed in the near future.
 
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