I have Been supplied with a travel volts dcdc charger wiring kit xl. Cable size is 16mm and includes a 50amp fuse. Is this sufficient for a 120ah agm of which i will be running lighting, usb sockets, fridge and diesel heater Only by that chart i could protect with up to a 110amp fuse if needed
Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Yes its more than suffucient, its more of what current the wire will take. Treat is as a fuse, so a 16mm 2 wire can take 'roughly' 110 amps. Trying to say don't run your electrics off a fishing line wire!!!
With regard to what you're running, from the +ve of the battery to the fuse box, add up all the available current, led, usb, heater etc and fuse that wire for the load, I would hazard a guess at about 20amps ish but check the spec of each item. Then fuse each output to the load on the required current limit, 1amp for led, 5amp for usb etc. The fridge is ran straight from the +ve of the leisure battery as it has a on off switch in it, again, this must be fused when coming off the battery.
Any questions then fire away.
With regard to what you're running, from the +ve of the battery to the fuse box, add up all the available current, led, usb, heater etc and fuse that wire for the load, I would hazard a guess at about 20amps ish but check the spec of each item. Then fuse each output to the load on the required current limit, 1amp for led, 5amp for usb etc. The fridge is ran straight from the +ve of the leisure battery as it has a on off switch in it, again, this must be fused when coming off the battery.
Any questions then fire away.
@mrdanielmh @Dellmassive I like the wiring diagrams what are you using to make them?
Ok, I'll have a bash, thanks.Great. Thankyou for your reply. I will add up what i plan to install/run and work it out from there like you said.
Renogy Lithium with Smart Battery Protect & Smart Shunt V3
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Dell, can you get rid of that alternator and put a battery instead mate? I am already being asked "how do I connect the Victron to my alternator?"
Yes sure . . .
edit: Done, Replaced with V3 showing "Engine starter battery" instead of the Alternator Icon.
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@Dellmassive the Victron Orion tr smart gas the option to be switched by the ignition or not. Would you advise it's connected?
It must be connected to work properly with intelligent alternators
A few questions about the schematic for Lifpo4 battery:
1) There is a fuse each at end of the cable running from the starter battery to the dc-dc charger. Is this a mistake, or are 2 necessary? If so why?
2) My battery has a bluetooth monitor in the BMS, does this make the BMV-712 temp sensor and BM2 for the leisure battery redundant?
3) Is the PV isolator necessary or a choice?
4) Is the Battery protect essential for all installations? The battery I have just bought states it has a built in 'safety shutdown', I have emailed to ask if shutdown before full discharge is part if the functionality.
1) There is a fuse each at end of the cable running from the starter battery to the dc-dc charger. Is this a mistake, or are 2 necessary? If so why?
2) My battery has a bluetooth monitor in the BMS, does this make the BMV-712 temp sensor and BM2 for the leisure battery redundant?
3) Is the PV isolator necessary or a choice?
4) Is the Battery protect essential for all installations? The battery I have just bought states it has a built in 'safety shutdown', I have emailed to ask if shutdown before full discharge is part if the functionality.
1) That cable doesn't go directly to the battery. It has the DC-DC charger in between. You need to fuse the starter cable and also the cable from the charger to the leisure battery
2) If your battery has a smart BMS built in then there is no need for a separate battery monitor and temp sensor
3) There is no PV isolator in that diagram. I don't have one in my system but I am able to turn off my MPPT charger via bluetooth.
4) Safety shut down will probably monitor the Temp and balancing of the cells in the battery. A battery protect device is a good idea.
Thanks @Deaky
1) In the diagram: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/diagrams-schematics-wires-how-i-done-it.16329/post-225627 I see a fuse at each end of the cable between the dc-dc charger and starter battery, and also at each end of of the cable between the dc-dc and the leisure battery. I'm curious about the double up.
2) good news, save some £
3) I see a PV for the solar, but like you I can turn the MPPT on/off by bluetooth so I'll miss this out.
4) I'll report back what Sterling power say about what their safety shutdown functionality.
1) In the diagram: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/diagrams-schematics-wires-how-i-done-it.16329/post-225627 I see a fuse at each end of the cable between the dc-dc charger and starter battery, and also at each end of of the cable between the dc-dc and the leisure battery. I'm curious about the double up.
2) good news, save some £
3) I see a PV for the solar, but like you I can turn the MPPT on/off by bluetooth so I'll miss this out.
4) I'll report back what Sterling power say about what their safety shutdown functionality.
Ah, just seen there are other schematics in the thread.
I guess, if the cable connecting the DC-DC to either of the batteries is long then it's good practice to have a fuse each end.
Mine isn’t connected and seems to work fine. Could you explain more please.
Am I correct in thinking I need to connect the Victron Orion to the BCm? If so which location? And what pin do I need to make the lead?
Thanks in advance.
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@JBR80 re the double fuse. from starter to dc-dc to leisure.
as @Deaky has mentioned above . .
ALL battery connections must be fused. . . . at the battery within a few inches of the POS terminal ( or as close as practicable )
the second fuse at the DC-DC end of the cable is optional.
I've shown it as some of the install diagrams detail a fuse at this location.
it also mimics the VW OEM setup of a 100A fuse under the starter battery and a 80A fuse next to the VSR/Relay under the seat.
it also gives you an easy isolation and test point next to the DC-DC charger.
Provided the main battery fuse is identified and accessible - this second fuse is just optional
.
Thanks for the full explanation @Dellmassive
The Victron Orion has a very cleaver "Engine Run Detection" algorithm that enables it to run without a IGN signal.
to work properly it needs setting in the settings via the APP.
see page -8 in the user guide. - https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa..._Isolated/Orion-Tr_Smart_DC-DC_Charger-en.pdf
if you can get a IGN signal then you can wire that in for more accurate setting. (page 6 )
the recomended Victron install schematic also details the use of an IGN signal. - https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...-Batt-smallBMS-MPPT-100-30-Orion-Tr-smart.pdf
+++++
so to answer the question - do you NEED it?
No you dont NEED the IGN for the Orion to run,
But if you can get a ENG RUN signal from the BCM then that is best.
the middle ground will be a basic IGN signal . . . just remember that with that configuration the DC-DC will remain ON and effectively be draining the starter battery if the IGN is ON but the engine is NOT RUNNING.
++++
see how to get the ENG RUN signal here: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/guide-dc-dc-charger-for-leisure-battery-how-i-done-it.15066/
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EDIT:
Victron has now detailed a sperate sheet : https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...on-set-up-Orion-Tr-Smart-DC-DC-Charger-EN.pdf
Thanks @Dellmassive. The electrics course of my T6 open university degree is progressing nicely
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