Cheers @LambethBoy
Drivers Door Adjustment
- Thread starter LambethBoy
- Start date
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- door seal
Sorry for jumping in on this thread but I had a right nightmare last week with my van and managed to let my van roll back with the drivers door open and hit the wall of my house pushing the door forward. As you can see from the pictures it had dropped a fair bit and (I think) bent the hinges. You can also see that the lower A pillar side of the hinge had moved so I unscrewed the bolt and with the help of the wife lifted it and re-tightened it. This aligned the door which stopped the striker catching on the lock when closing.
However, now I have to really pull the door hard to close it and when I open the door it flings open with force hence why I think the hinges may be bent. I have ordered a new upper and lower hinge and will change them.
I suppose what my question is, am I right in changing the hinges to see if this stops the door from flinging open?
I do have a video but I’m not sure how to upload it.
However, now I have to really pull the door hard to close it and when I open the door it flings open with force hence why I think the hinges may be bent. I have ordered a new upper and lower hinge and will change them.
I suppose what my question is, am I right in changing the hinges to see if this stops the door from flinging open?
I do have a video but I’m not sure how to upload it.
You might be able to save that!
As long as the bodywork behind the hinges isn't bent you should be a able to adjust that hinge back if you undo the nut and give the door a jerk upwards.
Is it just the bottom one thats shifted?
@LambethBoy @Dellmassive
Hi Guys, I have the same issue on my Van = Driver's door bouncing .... the lock mechanism all seems good in the door and clicks in to first and second position.
Thanks @dellmassiv
@Dellmassive @LambethBoy
Gents, similar problem on Driver's door. When closing it bounces if you just let it closes naturally or even with a slam.
The only way to get it to close properly is to hang on to door and apply pressure until it is fully closed.
The lock on door appears fine. 2 click process engages as it should - same as passenger door which is ok.
To undo the striker plate I know you need a star head and mark original position! But how much pressure on screws? I note LambethBoy you did mention lots of power? Also did you move it up/down first?
It is still under warranty, but 40 miles round trip and having people inside my van prefer not if I can. Thanks as always. PAUL
@LambethBoy @Dellmassive Meant to attach photos = STRIKE PLATE and confirm STAR M8 2nd photo is the size head I need to undo? Tia Paul.
M8 spline i believe.
i have this set, so just grabbed the right one.
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i have this set, so just grabbed the right one.
Silverline 881641 Hexstar Spline Bit Set 40 Pieces: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
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amzn.to
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Yes its definitely M8
I have this problem, door doest seem to shut unless you give it a firm push.
could be something to do with the air escape / pressure as if the windows are open its fine!
Then again when I insulated the van I removed the vw oem lower rear panels (with the holes in) insulated carpeted etc.
Try opening the opposite door before you close to see if that makes a difference.
i have that issue when the additional rubber dust seals fitted.
sound deadening the doors help . . . . (more mass due to the weight and door close)
but I've also found that not all door seals are equal . . . and that some are stiffer, softer, thicker, thinner, rounder, squarer. etc etc than others.
and cutting the door seals down and just using strips helps. (ie just a vertical strip, compared to going all the way round the bottom)
if your door is bouncing . . . . . . first thing to do is remove the additional dust seal.
then test . . . .
sound deadening the doors help . . . . (more mass due to the weight and door close)
but I've also found that not all door seals are equal . . . and that some are stiffer, softer, thicker, thinner, rounder, squarer. etc etc than others.
and cutting the door seals down and just using strips helps. (ie just a vertical strip, compared to going all the way round the bottom)
if your door is bouncing . . . . . . first thing to do is remove the additional dust seal.
then test . . . .
So I fitted the new lower door hinge today after giving it a quick spray of paint and it’s 99% better, luckily enough I didn’t need to change the top one although I did buy that as well. I’m chuffed to bits as I was worried I’d bent the actual door. I just need to fine tweek it now as it doesn’t quite close like the passenger one and I have to very gently pull it to close it properly. I’ve tried adjusting the Striker but it doesn’t seem to move any more, once the weather warms up I’ll give it another go.
The striker should move, probably stuck or the nuts on the back are set in the paint, give it a good tap. Don’t undo the bolts too far or the nuts can drop off the back into no mans land.
I’ve just remembered, there’s a metal plate (the plate can drop off) on the back, not nuts. If the plate is loose and the striker is moving then that’s probably your lot. My drivers door was about 10mm proud when I collected it brand new from the dealer, I could not believe they never picked it up on the PDI.
Thanks I tried that and it still "bounced" ... neighbour had a look and thinks it is the striking plate. Appreciate your thoughts and thanks you.
Thanks Sam will have a look when my M8 bit Turns up in the post!
Correct Ryan, bloody cold and just started snowing!
Thank you @Dellmassive ... just waiting on my M8 bit to arrive and then I can play! Appreciate you always taking the time to help so many. Be in touch. Cheers Paul
Jesus, a 10mm gap. Even I would picked that up at my age!
Sorry to bring up an old thread, my driver's door is a few mm out and has started making a rattling when driving especially on longer runs, if I pull on the inside of the door when driving it pulls in and rattle stops and in the mirror it's all level.
I have loosened the 2 bolts on the striker panel and it moves over a little but when I tighten it back up it pulls itself back into the position it was in before.
Any other ways of adjusting or am I stuck as it is.
I have loosened the 2 bolts on the striker panel and it moves over a little but when I tighten it back up it pulls itself back into the position it was in before.
Any other ways of adjusting or am I stuck as it is.
There's adjustment on the bottom hinge but not sure that'll help. Did mine the other week but that was because the door was out of alignment.
TBH the striker shouldn't be moving back like that. Summat not right there. Maybe go nuts when tightening it up?
Failing that, maybe a "sounds like a golf" door seal?
TBH the striker shouldn't be moving back like that. Summat not right there. Maybe go nuts when tightening it up?
Failing that, maybe a "sounds like a golf" door seal?
