Drivers window won't go up with switch [Resolved]

[Jim Rey]

Drivers window won't go up with switch. I wound the driver's side electric window down using the door switch. The window will not come back up with switch. I had to remove the door panel disconnect the window motor and pull the window up manually. So it will wind down with the switch but not put it back up. In the down position, I have tried holding the switch in for 10secs, to reset, and can hear the motor clicking but it still is not winding back up.
I left the window open previously and the switch assembly got wet. I have ordered part number 1k3 959 857 c (double window switch) and hoping it's that. Any advice anyone, if the switch doesn't cure the issue?
On inspection, after removing the door panel, the door motor hasn't got wet. The comfort window down/up from the key fob isn't working either but hope that will just be a reset once I get the window working again.
I hear people speaking of the regulator. Is the window motor regulator on the window motor assembly or are there electronics inside the double switch itself?
Thanks for any assistance

 

[Loz]

Does it close with the key in the driver's lock turned and held to the right?
Does it go up if you press and hold the Fob( you may not have this option)

The module for that door is on the back of the motor.

 

[Jim Rey]

Thanks for response
I tried the key in the driver's door lock.The window opened the but it won't go back up even I turning the key to the left or right. I'll need to take the door card off again and pull it manually until I get the switch.
The long key fob press doesn't work either

 

[Loz]

If it goes down but not up, I don't think changing the switch will fix it, sounds like a module/motor issue to me. Do you have access to VDCS to check for diagnostic codes and test the switches etc?

 

[Jim Rey]

yes, i think your correct. i don't have VDCS. I have a Carista OBD2 module but don't know if that would help me reset anything

 

[Loz]

yes, i think your correct. i don't have VDCS. I have a Carista OBD2 module but don't know if that would help me reset anything

Probably not; with vcds you can measure the switch operations and see if it is operating outputs.
As a (nothing to lose), you could disconnect the starter battery for 1 minute and force the modules to reset.

 

[Jim Rey]

OK. I'll try disconnecting the battery. If that doesn't help I'll change the switch when it comes and failing that it might be a new motor assembly. I know that the passenger door is a mirror image of the driver door. If I swapped them over and checked the switch operation.. is that something that could perhaps point me in the right direction.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Jim Rey]

Might be worth me investing in a VCDS. Could you recommend where I could get a VCDS?

 

[Skyliner33]

Might be worth me investing in a VCDS. Could you recommend where I could get a VCDS?

Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM) Packages :: Gendan Automotive Products

www.gendan.co.uk

 

[Ayjay]

I had an issue with my Audi Q5 last year - in my case, the 'long press up' stopped working but if I kept my finger on the button it closed all the way. I replaced the switch module with one that I bought for £20ish on Ebay and it was all sorted in less than a couple of hours. Audi wanted close to £200 to do it - £100 for the part and the same for labour. Believe me, if an idiot like me can do such a job, anybody can.

 

[Jim Rey]

Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM) Packages :: Gendan Automotive Products

www.gendan.co.uk

Thanks again Loz. Just disconnected the battery...no luck. I'm about to take the door card off to manually pull the window up. I'll check the motor unit for any obvious issues. If I take off the passenger door card and plugged in that motor to try and see if the motor will move in both directions. I know that they are mirror images and can't install it fully but perhaps it would confirm motor module issue?

I had an issue with my Audi Q5 last year - in my case, the 'long press up' stopped working but if I kept my finger on the button it closed all the way. I replaced the switch module with one that I bought for £20ish on Ebay and it was all sorted in less than a couple of hours. Audi wanted close to £200 to do it - £100 for the part and the same for labour. Believe me, if an idiot like me can do such a job, anybody can.

Thanks for your input Ayjay. Yes your issue sounded like the switch but I think mine is perhaps not that. However, I should have new switch unit on Thursday...fingers crossed . I think I'm looking at a new motor and module.

 

[Mud Digger]

hi don't know for 6.1 sorry if i'm stating the Obvious but you did try the window reset anti trap thing for the windows holding the up button for 10 seconds sorry just stating one of the things seems only a few know about especially after a power down.

like holding the key fob door open for a while it opens the windows ....... well i didn't know till i got told in here lol ..

 

[Jim Rey]

hi don't know for 6.1 sorry if i'm stating the Obvious but you did try the window reset anti trap thing for the windows holding the up button for 10 seconds sorry just stating one of the things seems only a few know about especially after a power down.

like holding the key fob door open for a while it opens the windows ....... well i didn't know till i got told in here lol ..

hi there. Yes tried all of that. I removed driver's side motor and module. Removed module PCB and checked for moisture ingress..nothing there. I'll wait on an ordered switch and see if it works..failing that new PCB module or window motor complete. This is when I wish I knew somebody else with a T6 i.e. to swap bits and eliminate causes. I know the passenger side motor is a mirror image but I might take that out and see if the motor goes in both directions

Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM) Packages :: Gendan Automotive Products

www.gendan.co.uk

Thanks for link

 

[Ayjay]

@Jim Rey. Definitely the switch as you could actually feel a faint 'second click' when you pushed up the switch for the passenger window all the way and which I'm guessing activated the auto close. The click was absent on the faulty drivers side module. The point I was trying to make was don't be afraid of trying a DIY approach if if comes to replacement parts and saving money. As I said, if an idiot like me can do such a job, anybody can.

 

[Jim Rey]

@Jim Rey. Definitely the switch as you could actually feel a faint 'second click' when you pushed up the switch for the passenger window all the way and which I'm guessing activated the auto close. The click was absent on the faulty drivers side module. The point I was trying to make was don't be afraid of trying a DIY approach if if comes to replacement parts and saving money. As I said, if an idiot like me can do such a job, anybody can.

Thanks for that. Yes, I'm definitely a long way from giving up and asking a garage to resolve it (with no doubt a hefty bill). Amazon tell me my new switch is coming tomorrow so fingers crossed, that works. If not I'll be taking the passenger side motor and module out to narrow the issue down further. Don't really want the expense of a VCDS unit to explicitly determine the fault.... just yet.

 

[Jim Rey]

Had to cancel the original replacement switch from amazon and get another one which is coming Friday. Inside the double switch is a red led which comes on when side lights are on. Therefore, 1 x wire must be for the LED +ve and an 12v ground I assume is present in one of the 4 x wires (3 off which i guess go back to the ECU) My thinking is then 1 wire per switch provide the switch logic states (e.g OFF UP/DOWN) . There must be switching diodes within the switch itself, in that case, to send the output from one switch to the ECU. If that's true, then maybe the switch getting wet when i left the window down, has burnt out electronics within the switch.
I took the rocker off the switch and could see a surface mounted component. When I finally get everything working I shall break open the switch and investigate further to see if I can determine (if it is the switch) where the problem lies. I removed the motor and controller and it does not look if any water ingress is evident. New switch coming Friday..update then.
A VCDS would make this a lot easier I accept but can't afford that right now.

 

[Bigsidavies]

If you’ve got the door card off then can you not just take the window motor off the door thus disconnecting it from the window regulator. Not seen the T6, but it should just be a splined wheel on the back of the motor that rotates which in turn spins a wheel with cable on it.
You can then use the switch to see if the motor rotates both ways.
If it does then my guess is the regulator.
Just had exactly the same on my A4 and the cable on the regulator snapped and wound itself back around the regulator spool the wrong way so it would go up but not down.
This pic shows how the reg looks on the back of the inner door cover. The black bit top right is the spool mechanism that the motor attaches too.

 

[Loz]

Had to cancel the original replacement switch from amazon and get another one which is coming Friday. Inside the double switch is a red led which comes on when side lights are on. Therefore, 1 x wire must be for the LED +ve and an 12v ground I assume is present in one of the 4 x wires (3 off which i guess go back to the ECU) My thinking is then 1 wire per switch provide the switch logic states (e.g OFF UP/DOWN) . There must be switching diodes within the switch itself, in that case, to send the output from one switch to the ECU. If that's true, then maybe the switch getting wet when i left the window down, has burnt out electronics within the switch.
I took the rocker off the switch and could see a surface mounted component. When I finally get everything working I shall break open the switch and investigate further to see if I can determine (if it is the switch) where the problem lies. I removed the motor and controller and it does not look if any water ingress is evident. New switch coming Friday..update then.
A VCDS would make this a lot easier I accept but can't afford that right now.

If you were a VIP you could have saved yourself time and looked at the wiring diagram.
The switch uses resisters, also you can't swap the modules over as the coding is different for each door.

 

[Jim Rey]

Wow thanks! Great all of these diags were available on the forum. Looks like a single diode and resistors. Been pricing module/motor as per your advice but I thought I might stick in a less expensive switch first to see if it might cure it.

With this diagram and wire colours, I should be able to try & meter the corresponding pins on switch module.
Once I get over any expense to fix window, I'll look at getting the VIP membership.
You've been a fantastic help

 

[Jim Rey]

If you were a VIP you could have saved yourself time and looked at the wiring diagram.
The switch uses resisters, also you can't swap the modules over as the coding is different for each door.

Just metered the switches. Get a reading of about 1KΩ between chassis and red/w wire. When operating up and down driver switch. Same on green/w wire.

Like you said previously Loz, maybe not the switch.

If it turns out to be the part 7E0 959 801 P drivers side motor and control board module (which I removed) I might need to get that. I am confused with the suffixes at the end of the part number...some say P and others listed on eBay say K.
Do the replacement motors have to be coded for the VW T6 model year or is this a generic part?
cheers