OOOO, Was it this video? - just watching it now
Warning, you will get dizzy watching this, the camera is all over the place!
ECO-WORTHY 12V 100Ah lifePO4 Internals
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EcoWorthy
- Thread starter Steve1978
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Warning, you will get dizzy watching this, the camera is all over the place!
ECO-WORTHY 12V 100Ah lifePO4 Internals
Thats one of them.OOOO, Was it this video? - just watching it now
Warning, you will get dizzy watching this, the camera is all over the place!
ECO-WORTHY 12V 100Ah lifePO4 Internals
I fitted a renogy 100ah lithium battery underneath the drivers seat, battery laying on its side terminals forward, split charge relay in front, had to fabricate a bracket for the battery to sit on but quite straight forward with plenty of room, bit hard to get pics now because my seat is refitted.
I've got one in a battery box.
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www.t6forum.com
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Lithium LifePo4 12v Batteries - Time For An Upgrade?
Did I mention i bought a ECO-Worthy Lifepo4? this was OCT/NOV 2023. . . . but looks like i missed doing the post? 100Ah 12.8v Right, so getting back to this. . . ECO-WORTHY 100Ah Lifepo4 while abroad sunning it up in Spain for a while this popped up. . . £279.99 seemed like a good...
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Hi @ginkster, thanks for the pic, do you by any chance have a wiring diagram? I want to include a DC-DC charger, smart shunt and a battery protect. I think I will get all Victron so that I can control/monitor them through the app. I am not doing 240V hook up or solar so I think it should be fairly straight forward.
I don’t have a diagram to hand I’m afraid but Nohma.com are a good source.
It’s pretty simple - you will need the following:
Short cable from Starter battery (SB) to a 60a midi fuse then cable to the DC-DC pos input there is a grommet behind the SB into the cabin.
Neg from DC-DC to chassis ground point (there are ones under the seats) or a neg busbar.
DC-DC pos output to a pos busbar. Fuse this cable close to the busbar.
From leisure battery (LB) pos a short cable to a midi fuse (size tbc) then cable to an isolator switch (not mandatory but recommended) then cable to pos busbar (the one mentioned above).
LB neg short cable to shunt input then cable from shunt output to chassis ground (or a neg busbar if using one). Nothing else must be connected LB side of the shunt otherwise you will get false readings. You need a fused pos cable from shunt to LB pos (supplied with shunt). You get another thin cable that can be added to the shunt aux and connected to the DC-DC input to also get SB voltage in the app.
You don’t need a battery protect with lifepo4 as this role is done by the battery BMS.
Any power sources then take the pos feed from the busbar with a suitable size fuse at the busbar end to protect the cable. Sources can either take the neg from the neg busbar or local chassis point, whichever is easier/shorter.
That is about it. Cable/fuse size can be worked out from the diagram below.
If you draw up your plan (inc length of cable runs) we can check it and help advise on fuse/cable sizes.
Depending on your use case I’d really recommend solar. It is a game changer when combined with a lithium battery. I find I very rarely use the DC-DC and haven’t even bothered fitting the mains charger as solar is sufficient for my use.
Meant to say, I would recommend also fitting an Ablemail AMT12-2 that will trickle charge your SB from your LB. It’s great if you are camping as opening doors, van interior lights coming on and central locking etc all drain the SB fairly rapidly. Ideal the AMT works best with solar keeping the LB topped up (or mains charger on EHU) but even without it’s best to sacrifice a little LB power to ensure your van will start.
Also, for the DC-DC there are 3 models to load on at. The 18A Orion isolated - cheapest and lowest powered (about 5 hours from empty to full). The 30A Orion non-isolated - mid priced, runs a little warm but fits fine under the seat (about 3 hours flat to full). The Orion XS (50A but selectable to lower amps) - newest, most expensive but smaller, cooler and faster charge (would recommend setting to 30A so similar to above charge wise). I have the 30A and it’s fine. All depends on your use case and budget really.
Also, for the DC-DC there are 3 models to load on at. The 18A Orion isolated - cheapest and lowest powered (about 5 hours from empty to full). The 30A Orion non-isolated - mid priced, runs a little warm but fits fine under the seat (about 3 hours flat to full). The Orion XS (50A but selectable to lower amps) - newest, most expensive but smaller, cooler and faster charge (would recommend setting to 30A so similar to above charge wise). I have the 30A and it’s fine. All depends on your use case and budget really.
