Euro 6 remap

Well to add into the pot on brakes (sorry guys!), all I know is my big powered bikes feel better on the finger control with larger brakes, less pressure required for more braking than the girlfriends little 125 brakes.. So bigger brakes on a bigger bike exerting more force through bigger multi Pistons feel & work better than the brakes on a 125 which is a single pot similar piston size calliper.. Hmm bigger brakes for me to lads, defo pull up quicker on a multipot large bike than if it had. Single pots :unsure: that's my take Anyways... oh and at high and low speeds, so not just about heat, it's about clamping forces as well as feedback... but each to their own.. :whistle::thumbsdown::thumbsup::speechless::sleep::sleep:
 
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oh and someone explain please why then twin disk multipots brake better than single disk single pots on same bike.. It's not all about heat build up.. Btw finger feedback is same.. It's all about higher forces being able to be applied correctly as well as protecting against fade through heat dissipation..
 
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Plus with bigger disks you are applying a braking force to a faster rotating area of the disk.
It will stop you quicker. End of.

Never heard such nonsense as I've read on some of these posts.
 
The thing with brakes is its physics...

You are moving in a forward direction at 60mph to slow you need to convert forward motion into a different energy.. In this case heat.

To do this you need to apply a clamping affect using a friction material to convert the energy to heat stored in the brakes, the more heat you can generate through the clamping of the friction material to the disk, and get rid of through heat dissipation the quicker you will stop.. This is why we now have vented disks as they cool better as are effectively two surfaces and allow hot gasses to escape.. (Hence the performance grooved disks as well). Hot gasses push the pad away from the surface requiring more pressure in a vicious cycle.. This is brake fade.. and the grooved disks help with the release of the hot gasses generated at the pad to disk contact surface, which helps combat brake fade. Brake fade is also when a brake As well is not being able to put anymore heat into the energy store which is because the disk is full through overheating, until it is able to convert more motion into heat.. once it has sufficiently cooled.. But this is brakes overheating really.. And you have cooked them at this point and probably warped the disk..

You also need to stop the rubber breaking grip with the road surface, but this is another matter..

So... Bigger brakes stop faster and last longer before brake fade as they can convert more kinetic energy into heat faster, and in greater quantities (Stopping quicker) and before brake fade is encountered due to having a bigger heat store/dissipation device (disk) through simple physics..

"Simples" :eek::D (physics lesson over) :whistle::thumbsup:
 
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Here's a real life example;
Slam on the brakes of a BMW 118d: measure stopping distance.
Do the same in an M135i (or now M140i); measure braking distance.

The 118d is LIGHTER so why is the M135i distance SO much less?

Magic fairy dust? Or those much bigger brakes?
 
And I thought it was all to do with the pads you used
Brake fade - Wikipedia
Disc brake - Wikipedia
Not bothered about big disc any more, as long as it stops me quick I'm happy. Just be grateful you have servos on your vans an cars because when I learned to drive there was no such thing as disc brakes or servos on cars.
 
As I say.. Physics, bigger brakes give more braking thorough better & larger energy conversion due to bigger size
 
So much fail.

Go and educate yourself properly on big brakes Vs better tyres. There are so many YouTube engineer bloggers that explain it.
Bigger brakes not stop faster. They stop you more efficiently.

Are you saying my engineer lectures at uni are chatting crap regarding this subject. Did I waste 4 years at uni doing vehicle design no be told on a vw forum it's all lies.


simon said:
Sorry to bring things back to basics but how do I find out which ecu I have got with my T6 2016 1.9tdi bluemotion t-line?
Click to expand...

There isn't a 1.9 available on the t6. Only 2.0. Euro 5 or Euro 6 with the adblue filler under the diesel filler cap.
 
Stopping more efficiently; well I'd say that is exactly the same as stopping more quickly.

How do you explain my example?

Oh and you do like to bang on about your degree; I have an engineering degree too from a decent red brick university that is rather closely linked to several auto manufacturers some of whom funded the department because it had such huge expertise.

And a lot of experience.

Bigger brakes are better. Up the power, you need to upgrade the brakes. And the gearbox.

The short sighted remap only industry is part of the throwaway society we live in. A remapped vehicle is wrecked IMO just the same as crashing it into a wall or starving it of oil.

Simple common sense.
 
Polzeylad said:
Here's a real life example;
Slam on the brakes of a BMW 118d: measure stopping distance.
Do the same in an M135i (or now M140i); measure braking distance.

The 118d is LIGHTER so why is the M135i distance SO much less?

Magic fairy dust? Or those much bigger brakes?
Click to expand...
The M135i will have bigger tyres so larger contact patch with the road and therefore more ultimate grip. It will also have high performance tyres with stickier rubber and less tyrewall movement, stiffer suspension to reduce dive under braking, and probably a more sports orientated braking circuit and pad compound.

Bigger brakes can give better modulation and therefore help hugely with car control and heat dissipation, but ultimately it is the mechanical grip from the tyre that determines deceleration. Its the same on my mountain bike. I could run 183/160 rotors front/rear and lock the wheels quite happily, but I choose to run 203/183 because they give better modulation and reduce arm pump. Unlike a car, the bike obviously does not have electronics to work out if a wheel is losing grip so modulation is critical
 
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Captain Mainwaring said:
The M135i will have bigger tyres so larger contact patch with the road and therefore more ultimate grip. It will also have high performance tyres with stickier rubber and less tyrewall movement, stiffer suspension to reduce dive under braking, and probably a more sports orientated braking circuit and pad compound.

Bigger brakes can give better modulation and therefore help hugely with car control and heat dissipation, but ultimately it is the mechanical grip from the tyre that determines deceleration. Its the same on my mountain bike. I could run 183/160 rotors front/rear and lock the wheels quite happily, but I choose to run 203/183 because they give better modulation and reduce arm pump. Unlike a car, the bike obviously does not have electronics to work out if a wheel is losing grip so modulation is critical
Click to expand...

Add M sport spec and it'll have the same size tyres...

I run 160 rotors and XO brakes on my bike because it's light, I'm light and I'm not a loony DHer.
If I had a heavier bike, often hooned down mountains and was a chunker, I'd go bigger.

But while Cornwall is hilly, it has no mountains.
 
Take a solid disk and spin it fast. Now squeeze that disk between your fingers and thumb across as much of the disk as possible to slow it down then stop it.
Now attach a much smaller disk next to it on the same axle and squeeze what you can between your fingers using the same force.

Which stops the quickest?

Then lets take some examples that I know of in my head.

BMW 118d - small disks, option of 18" staggered wheels and tyres.
BMW M135i - 340mm disk up front, 345mm rear (bizarre but true), Brembo made.

The M135i stops MUCH quicker. In fact it has the same braking time (60-0) as a 997 911 Turbo...

Porsche 911 Carrera - 330mm disks all round.
Carrera S - 350mm front, 330mm rear - almost identical weight.
911 Turbo S - 380mm all round.

Note the way the more powerful a Porsche you have the bigger the brakes. They all weigh a similar amount. You can have a range of wheels and tyres. Are the Porsche engineers wasting their customers time and money? Is it just for looks? I'm sure you'll still find a way of trying to argue that we should all have 22" wheels with weeny little saucer brakes trying to slow down our 2++ tonne vans...but I can't find a single reason when bigger brakes aren't worthwhile.
 
Lmfao! Yep.. Physics's, as stated by myself and others.. Big brakes work in conjunction with tyres.. They are needed if you want to upgrade the stopping ability's of your vehicle due to better heat dissipation! The author of that article thinks brake fade is only caused by boiling fluids.. Not the case I'm afraid.. It is true you need friction at the road via the tyre, but if you have small brakes and big tyres, you wont be able to take advantage of the increased friction of thr tyre as your brakes will have faded.. They are not isolated component, they work in conjunction with each other!

Note that the author states that the kinetic energy transfer or change is at is max at the point of sliding of the tyre.. This enrgy change is... HEAT! Or friction! And its main area is the brakes, as that is the retarding force YOU are applying with the brake pedal! This I'd why you brakes get f'ing HOT!
 
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The original discussion was about brakes and mention was made that tyres are another aspect. IMHO best stopping effectiveness is a function of both brakes and tyres. The braking efficiency is brought about by causing the most available retardation of the wheel rotation without actually stopping it rotating as the tyre will lose grip on the road surface and not slow the vehicle until grip is regained. The YouTube Engineer talks of absorbing kinetic energy, talks about heat dissipation and brake fade yet he fails to state the obvious. It is the brakes that are absorbing the kinetic energy and converting it to heat which has to be dissipated. In other words the YouTube Engineer has glossed over the link between braking and tyre grip/wheel rotation.

Hand grenade tossed and I'm ducking the fallout.:whistle::whistle:
 
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