Yup, no problem at all - happy to tweak and can re-share if it works OK.
External 240v hook-up options?
- Thread starter mhill
- Start date
This is my first post and I’ve just started to convert my t6 kombi, so far I’ve had it all insulated and sound proofed, vapored and carpeted. I have had an 100ah leisure battery with victron Bluetooth b2b installed under the drivers seat. And the next step is to have EHU installed. So my question is where is it better to have the EHU located? Side of the van or under the bumper etc.. I always just assumed it would be on the side of the van but the lad converting it advised me that would be better not to cut holes in the side… and put it under the rear bumper, but as practical as it sounds I actually like the look of the side and feel like it’s a lazy and easy option to put under the bumper. My next question is.. can I have the electric hook up linked to the b2b victron and have it charge my battery from campsite hook up?i would normally just ask him but he’s away on holiday at the min and would like a second opinion
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B2B is battery to battery, so not going to be able to plug it into the mains.
You'll need a separate AC to DC battery charger.
And don't put the hookup on the side of the van, looks awful IMO.
You'll need a separate AC to DC battery charger.
And don't put the hookup on the side of the van, looks awful IMO.
I don't see anything wrong with the VW California combined EHU and water fill point, I've fitted them on at least three LWB T5s & T6 and they look (in my opinion) and work very well.
Here's mine, On the other side is the LPG tank filler and the diesel heater tank filler.
Can't beat a bit of over-engineering
I have some significant overwhelm. I have been on this van electrical carousel for three weeks now. I started by thinkin I'd get EHU plug under bonnet and cable through to the rear cupboard to a consumer unit and ignore the 2 meter rule as I don't want a consumer unit under the bonnet taking up room there. Then I decided that was too maverick and I need to copy @Deaky 's neat little setup with the little Wylex unit.
Rather than just try to copy what's in the CU, three hours trying to figure out what OCB's and RCD i think I need (still non the wiser) and I end up here in this thread thinking... Maybe I don't need integrated EHU. Why shouldn't I just buy a 3 or 4 gang extension with fuse protection and save myself weeks of over focus. I can plug my battery charger into it and my ecoflow can be charged when on hook up and run lights and USB chargers etc just off 12v... I swear there needs to be a medical condition recognized for van electric fatigue.
Can anyone please reassure me that I do need EHU integrated and a simple extension lead is not an option?
Rather than just try to copy what's in the CU, three hours trying to figure out what OCB's and RCD i think I need (still non the wiser) and I end up here in this thread thinking... Maybe I don't need integrated EHU. Why shouldn't I just buy a 3 or 4 gang extension with fuse protection and save myself weeks of over focus. I can plug my battery charger into it and my ecoflow can be charged when on hook up and run lights and USB chargers etc just off 12v... I swear there needs to be a medical condition recognized for van electric fatigue.
Can anyone please reassure me that I do need EHU integrated and a simple extension lead is not an option?
You can do whatever you want.... Being sensible.
I've used the Extension type EHU for the last 5 years, carried over from the tent camping days.
I've used the lead on the van as well.... Just cracking the window to get the cable in.
You need to do a risk assessment and decide on how often you plan on having external 240v inside the van,?
What are the chances of the cable getting caught on the van body making the chassis live? (Ie slammed in door, very possible)
What are the chances of a piece of class1 (metal) equipment going faulty and causing a fault?
Do you trust the external ehu trip/breaker?
Versus the cost of installing the CU and RCBOs inside the van.
......
In my case, we have decided to use inverter 240 inside only and limit external 240v to a class2 charger to keep the 12v system maintained.
........
So if you use 240v on a regular -ish amount of time and want piece of mind .... Then fit a CU with RCD and MCB, or RCBSo. (FYI that's what the UK electric reg say for a installed system in a mobile vehicle ie caravan)
And if you only use ehu a few times a year and just run the cable into the awning with no risk of a short to the van..then stick with a cable.
I've used the Extension type EHU for the last 5 years, carried over from the tent camping days.
I've used the lead on the van as well.... Just cracking the window to get the cable in.
You need to do a risk assessment and decide on how often you plan on having external 240v inside the van,?
What are the chances of the cable getting caught on the van body making the chassis live? (Ie slammed in door, very possible)
What are the chances of a piece of class1 (metal) equipment going faulty and causing a fault?
Do you trust the external ehu trip/breaker?
Versus the cost of installing the CU and RCBOs inside the van.
......
In my case, we have decided to use inverter 240 inside only and limit external 240v to a class2 charger to keep the 12v system maintained.
........
So if you use 240v on a regular -ish amount of time and want piece of mind .... Then fit a CU with RCD and MCB, or RCBSo. (FYI that's what the UK electric reg say for a installed system in a mobile vehicle ie caravan)
And if you only use ehu a few times a year and just run the cable into the awning with no risk of a short to the van..then stick with a cable.
Been on a similar merry-go-round myself recently.
Take a look at this vid.
Post in thread 'Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure' Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure
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Don't you need dual pole circuit breakers?
Looks like these from the part number...
Wylex NHXS1B06 6A Type B Miniature RCBO
At Electricals Online find all your Electronic brands on our Online Store. Lighting, Heating, Ventilation, Cable management, you name it.
www.google.co.uk
...
Double pole breakers are recommended,
As some EHU have the L & N reversed, more so in Europe.
So with a single breaker the chassis could still be live with respect to ground even when the breaker is off(if poles reversed)
As some EHU have the L & N reversed, more so in Europe.
So with a single breaker the chassis could still be live with respect to ground even when the breaker is off(if poles reversed)
NHXS1B is good. @Skyliner33 and @roadtripper and me had an interesting thread on this, where I found out my original installation was wrong, and I learnt exactly what I should put in.
The NHXS1Bxx series are 1P+N, and have overcurrent protection of xx amps.
1P+N means they break one Phase connection, and the neutral. So they break both wires if there is a difference in current between live and neutral.
If the current flowing is more than the rating, they will break both wires. So NHXS1B16 will trip* at 16 amps, and will trip if there is any current difference between live and neutral.
*the B defines the way it behaves with overcurrent
Edit to correct the B comment
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It's a bit of a minefield, as are most things... too many options 
Looks like these from the part number...
Wylex NHXS1B06 6A Type B Miniature RCBO
At Electricals Online find all your Electronic brands on our Online Store. Lighting, Heating, Ventilation, Cable management, you name it.
...
View attachment 281488
6amp wouldn't be enough, surely?
On this one, it says it is Type B, but the spec says number of protected poles = 1
