External 240v hook-up options?

[drinfinity]

It specifies it switches both conductors.

It measures the current on the Phase ( live), so in any scenario where current is over the limit, it will trip both switches.

(Edit B is the B curve, meaning how it behaves in response to overcurrent)

 

[roadtripper]

With a simple extension you have to consider the metal body of the van and faults. It's safe to use in a tent (or indeed an awning) because there is no metal for anything plugged into it with a frayed cable to touch that should trip the protection before you do.

Realistically if you are going to camp for a couple of weekends to see how things are going or as you convert the van or possibly a one off then make a personal judgement. If you do use one take a bit of extra care to check the cables of what you plug in and take care of where they go so they are not trapped. I've seen some folks on here mount the extension and ground it.

What you must have is a way of disconnecting both conductors because EHU points live out in the wild in fields and marinas and with the best will in the world I've found them reversed in even very expensive marinas.

I also wonder these days if you need full EHU in the van at all. I've done two camps in the Caravelle with no EHU or fixed leisure system and just kept the starter battery charged via the towing socket. If you have a full 12v based system maybe all you need is a way to safely connect a mains charger the occasional times you need it. That could be a tent type extension in the awning and a quick connect on the starter and extension lead under the van into the bonnet - that'll keep both batteries topped off but doesn't put mains anywhere near the van body.

 

[Ayjay]

@Badjamin 'liking' my post from June'20 (#120 on Page 6) reminded me about a minor mod that I adopted with my EHU to make things easier which might be worth sharing. As can be seen in the pictures, my EHU socket is fixed to the plastic divider in the battery compartment and I have always found plugging the cable in a pain in the aris as it's quite a tight fit (probably necessarily so) and the plastic partition isn't the strongest fixing point . On that basis, I now use a fly lead which is permanently plugged in and into which the EHU cable now goes - it's now a lot easier attach and remove the EHU with the plug and socket in either hand. There's also a second socket on the cable to use with an RCD protected mains extension block if required in the awning. As can be seen from the picture, I put a tennis ball over the piug when it's not in use to protect the pins from any dirt and dust that might get into the engine compartment.

 

[roadtripper]

Nothing wrong with a tennis ball but you can get a variety of dust covers for the "male" end of the classic 16A connector:

16A Surface Mount Hook Up Point Dust Cover Cap

LOOKING FOR MAINS ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR CAMPER BUILD? - FAST DELIVERY - WE'RE RATED EXCELLENT ON TRUSTPILOT - CAMPER VAN SPECIALISTS - BROWSE OUR RANGE TODAY!

www.wiredcampers.co.uk

A handy trick with those is when you take them off put them on your dash or clip to your steering wheel as a reminder not to drive off...

 

[Ayjay]

@roadtripper. I always tie a short length of orange cable to the steering wheel to jog my memory.

 

[Dellmassive]

6amp wouldn't be enough, surely?

On this one, it says it is Type B, but the spec says number of protected poles = 1

That's how I read it too...

1p. Single pole...

However they offer a double pole version with the DP in the model number...

Eg.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-6a-30ma-type-a-dp-b-curve-mini-rcbo/3505x?ref=SFAppShare

.





****

And @Deaky was using 6A breakers as he was only powering two 12v support chargers (victron, one pic the sb and one on the LB)and not heavy duty 240v stuff.

 

[drinfinity]

That's how I read it too...

1p. Single pole...

However they offer a double pole version with the DP in the model number...

Eg.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-6a-30ma-type-a-dp-b-curve-mini-rcbo/3505x?ref=SFAppShare

.


View attachment 281520View attachment 281523


****

And @Deaky was using 6A breakers as he was only powering two 12v support chargers (victron, one pic the sb and one on the LB)and not heavy duty 240v stuff.

The Wylex model number is the same here. NHXS1B06. The difference is in the Screwfix description compared to the Electricals online description.

 

[roadtripper]

If you click through the link and look at the specifications then the magic line is:

Concurrently switching neutral conductor Yes

So those will break both conductors

Unfortunately in this area there is confusion with the short hand "P" as it can be used to mean both "Phase" and "Pole"

When you see "1P+N" it means one PHASE and Neutral, not one POLE and Neutral (as opposed to a three phase device that would be "3P+N")

Always check for evidence that both poles are broken if using an RCBO to save space over an MCB+RCD as "1P" is dangerously ambiguous here and a lot of descriptions can be misled too. Personally before trusting them I'd physically confirm the disconnect with a meter before fitting.

Why is there a difference? Because getting 2 sets of contacts, the arc quenching, the slow thermal trip, the rapid electromagnetic trip and the current imbalance trip - plus 2 complete sets of conductors and terminals - all in a single unit space - is a hell of a bit of engineering. And the vast majority of them are going to be used in a consumer unit and structured wiring where there is a separate device to give the full "both conductor" isolation if needed, so many RCBOs only need to break the one conductor,

 

[roadtripper]

Just to add to the "POLE" vs "PHASE" confusion look at this RCBO from Crabtree - which states

Single pole with switched neutral

Crabtree 61/BM2530 25A 30mA SPswN B Curve 6kA Type A Miniature Bi-Directional RCBO

At Electricals Online find all your Electronic brands on our Online Store. Lighting, Heating, Ventilation, Cable management, you name it.

www.electricalsonline.co.uk

So that is going to break both conductors but it's described as one pole...

RCBOs that break both conductors can make a very compact yet safe EHU - just really double check what it does before you commit to installing it!

 

[doncarlyon]

I'll just stay at home I think

 

[Dellmassive]

just to clarify

1p - single phase. ( what we use on the van )




vs


3p - three phase RCBO





+++++++++++++


the buz words are:


SP & N - single phase & Nutrual switched


SPswN - single phase with switched nutrual

&

3P+N - three phase + Nutural switching

.


so the switched Nutural implys that is double pole and disconercts bothe the L & N.

 

[Skyliner33]

Just to add to the "POLE" vs "PHASE" confusion look at this RCBO from Crabtree - which states

Single pole with switched neutral

Crabtree 61/BM2530 25A 30mA SPswN B Curve 6kA Type A Miniature Bi-Directional RCBO

At Electricals Online find all your Electronic brands on our Online Store. Lighting, Heating, Ventilation, Cable management, you name it.

www.electricalsonline.co.uk

So that is going to break both conductors but it's described as one pole...

RCBOs that break both conductors can make a very compact yet safe EHU - just really double check what it does before you commit to installing it!

I am not convinced that that will break both poles.

I believer that it will just switch the Neutral but not the Line.

 

[Dellmassive]

 

[Dellmassive]

just to wrap this up (for me)

I've decided to go with:

1x wylex 3mod IP65 CU
2x wylex 16A RCBO DP A/B Mini
1x wylex blank kit.





++++++


use case:

3kva victron inverter, 240v out to CU,
1x 16A RCBO for internal 3pin sockets (3x dble skts)
1x 16A RCBO for external 3pin outlet. (for ext EHU to awning)

all run in 2.5mm2 Blue arctik cable


+++++++++++++++


my 240vac IN will be a Victron IP65 25A charger with a EXT 240v EHU socket - 12v out wired to LB side 12v system for charging.


no 240v in or pass through

no transfer switches



+++++++++++++++

 

[Badjamin]

just to wrap this up (for me)

I've decided to go with:

1x wylex 3mod IP65 CU
2x wylex 16A RCBO DP A/B Mini
1x wylex blank kit.


View attachment 281562


++++++


use case:

3kva victron inverter, 240v out to CU,
1x 16A RCBO for internal 3pin sockets (3x dble skts)
1x 16A RCBO for external 3pin outlet. (for ext EHU to awning)

all run in 2.5mm2 Blue arctik cable


+++++++++++++++


my 240vac IN will be a Victron IP65 25A charger with a EXT 240v EHU socket - 12v out wired to LB side 12v system for charging.


no 240v in or pass through

no transfer switches



+++++++++++++++

Now all you need to do is get a fresh diagram sorted and you're good

Very much looking forward to your next 'How I done it'

 

[Badjamin]

If anyone has a min to add to my list please?

Thread 'Excuse me but what the eff are you plugging in to my van?!'

4 Apr 2025

I've had a look and can't see much if anything for this.

To try to justify an integrated electric hook up install alongside 12v setup (with additional 1000w+ power station perhaps) we need a list of potential items for EHU please.

I have created the below tiny list, if anyone has anything to add for their set up or even just a comedy suggestion (especially if it's a comedy suggestion)

please copy and paste add your addition and re-post. Cheers

AC to DC battery charger - obviously
CPAP machine
Toaster
Kettle
Laptop charger - if not USB-C
personal interior windmill

• Badjamin
• 230v 240v ehu electric hook up shore electrics
• Replies: 42
• Forum: Electrics, Lighting, ICE, Security

• 

 

[rod_vw]

6amp wouldn't be enough, surely?

On this one, it says it is Type B, but the spec says number of protected poles = 1

But it also says...

• Number of poles (total) 2
• 
  
• Concurrently switching neutral conductor Yes

 

[Dellmassive]

This is probably why it can be so confusing to people,,,, and normally why every RCBO will have on the reviews and comments... " Does this switch the natural?"

..




...


AI Overview




No, not all RCBOs switch the neutral; single-pole RCBOs (1P+N) do not switch the neutral, while double-pole RCBOs (2P) do.

Here's a more detailed explanation:


Single-Pole RCBOs (1P+N):
These RCBOs switch the live conductor (line) but not the neutral, leaving the neutral connection intact.



Double-Pole RCBOs (2P):
These RCBOs disconnect both the live and neutral conductors during a fault, providing additional safety.


UK Standard:
In the UK, RCBOs are permitted to be single-pole devices for circuits having neutral conductors reliably at Earth potential (TN-S or TN-C-S systems).
When to use double pole RCBOs:
Double-pole RCBOs are preferred for enhanced safety, particularly in installations with higher safety requirements.


Regulations:
Regulation 531.3. 1 requires an RCD to disconnect all live conductors (line and neutral in a single-phase circuit), however, Regulation 531.3. 1.201 permits single-pole switching where the neutral is in a TT or TN system.



,....,....

So basically you need to check that the individual item has the feature


The wylex DP version has.

But the cheaper BG brand doesn't.

Both are 30mA 16A RCBO

The layout is normally stamped on the side of casing.

 

[roadtripper]

Yep, the use we put them to in a van is a bit niche. They're not massively expensive so do your best to research but confirm both conductors are behaving as needed with a meter.

It would be nice if the industry came up with a clearer designation, but then I guess the folks working with them everyday know how their preferred brand behaves and there is a vested interest of the "this is confusing I'll just pay the sparky my mate recommends"

 

[dhardyuk]

Today I fitted my DEFA mains hookup socket and a Magcode point on the front of my Caravelle.







Magcode on the left and DEFA on the right.

I bought a couple of 2 metre Victron extensions which gave me options for how to wire it up. Two weeks ago I made the power clip end up from a Victron socket wired into the Magcode power clip end whilst I was waiting for a 28.3mm panel punch to arrive.

I spent yesterday evening walking around the van looking for a good spot for the Magcode and settled on the strip along the bottom of the front bumper between the number plate and the fog light.

2 hours watching videos of spritely young men whipping the front end off effortlessly persuaded me to crack on. Apart from some crappy plastic clips I had to cutoff in the wheel wells it was pretty straightforward. I have a folding foam mechanics mat which I plopped it into, disconnect the parking sensors and fog lights. Easy.

Once the front was off there seemed to be enough room to also fit the DEFA socket so that went on as well.

I already had a Victron socket wired through a small fuse box to the battery and the 1 metre length of extension cable was just about enough to get from the Magcode to the existing Victron socket.

If I was advising someone else thinking of doing this I would suggest using a longer length for the Magcode to battery lead so there is plenty of slack for when it all needs to come off again for some reason. My idle thumbs had the 2 metre extension cut in half without actually considering if that was the right thing to do.

Any hoo - first significant holes made in the van and I’m pretty happy with it