I tried gluing. It doesn't stick! Tried contact glue, epoxy and super glue. Maybe I am not skilled enough in glues to be able to say for sure.Pauly’s pic looks like they were made with lugs to plastic weld them into place. Otherwise i wonder if just glueing them would be enough?
And H looks like E?S looks like 5 when printed?
Definitely 7ES from both dealers.I would agree
never seen 7ES before so guess its a typo or misinterpreted
Thank you.Any 4-5kw heater (even chinese) will do (3kw might be fine as well - OEM is 3.5kw I think). There are 2 main advantages for installing non-OEM heater:
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- You can place remote control close to where you sleep. It is not comfortable to control OEM heater at night due to the control panel being in the overhead front.
- There is no possibility to install High Altitude kit if you go OEM.
If you drive into mountains, then this kit is important to have. I've camped at 2000m and above in my car.
There is a plan to try installing Hohekit as in experiment, since I have the Eberspacher Hohekit already purchased but Eberspacher told me they can't give instructions how to install it on the VW OEM heater so definitely not an option to go for.
Yes, I've seen mostly a case where intake is non original with the round vent drilled into the footstep.On the intace side are people fitting the OEM pipework or the flexible pipes that come with the heater?
Yes, 4-5kw is straight bolt on. If you can - go with this way and you won't have a headache.I am thinking that If I get a 4kW heater it is all a straight fit on the OEM kit intake and output if have the OEM cage ?
Two questions here. re fitting non OEM control to OEM eber - this is an interesting approach and I am sure can be done. The advantage of the original control is that it is connected via CAN to the car and has some special functions such as start to blow more air when you open a window or a door. I don't imply that these are absolutely essential features.Finally I have seen a company that adapt the OEM Eber heater to work with the aftermarket Eber loom etc. Would this be the best heater size for the van ie 3kW (I was told) as a 4kW heater would be overkill?
Thank you. Some information to digest. As far as I am aware the company that swaps the loom from the OEM heater to an aftermarket loom would make the OEM heater work as an aftermarket one so no canbus functions as far as I am aware.@Gsixty as you might have seen in this thread, fitting D2-type heater onto the original vents and cradle has been done before (see here for example). Personally, I would not do this as I don't like these reducer pipes etc. I think budget is what drives this decision.
Maybe someone can help you here by posting an aftermarket mounting bracket part link that could fit to the original vents - I've not seen or tried one. The original cradle costs a lot. If you can find an non OEM that fits right onto the rivets and positions the fan in the right way - you can reduce the cost a bit.
Yes, I've seen mostly a case where intake is non original with the round vent drilled into the footstep.
Yes, 4-5kw is straight bolt on. If you can - go with this way and you won't have a headache.
Two questions here. re fitting non OEM control to OEM eber - this is an interesting approach and I am sure can be done. The advantage of the original control is that it is connected via CAN to the car and has some special functions such as start to blow more air when you open a window or a door. I don't imply that these are absolutely essential features.
Second - 4kw is not an overkill. 5kw might be though. D3 that are fitted are close to 4KW (have a look at the sticker on this page). It just means it will work in smaller cycles to heat your van. I have seen many installations of non-OEM D4 implanted with original brackets and ducts. Everyone was very happy with this setup.
Drilling a hole = MoT fail? I have never heard of that. If you fit OEM the harness passes through the factory hole that is already there, other than that hole there is no need to drill through there whatsoever.Thank you. Some information to digest. As far as I am aware the company that swaps the loom from the OEM heater to an aftermarket loom would make the OEM heater work as an aftermarket one so no canbus functions as far as I am aware.
I have had a search around the internet and I cant find anyone selling a NON OEM cradle that fits into the OEM b pillar ducting. I am a but surprised as I think it would sell a lot. Especially as I have found out that drilling up into the seat base should be an MOT fail if anyone spotted it.