Fridge power requirements

[Ann3x]

I over specified the cable to the fridge as I had heard that the surge current could be quite high. This resulted in a larger voltage drop than expected at fridge start-up, which meant it could fail to start.

Will try and find out what gauge I used.

Pete

My fridge says that draw should be ~3A (see below) so perhaps I'd be ok with a 10A fuse in the box and my current cabling.

Vitrifrigo C50i Compressor Fridge Technical Information
Dimensions (mm) 395 W 634 H 345 D (387 D flush)
Capacity (litres) 50
Power (volts) 12/24 Volt
Current (amps) 2.8/1.4
Absorption (kw) 0.31 (kW/24h)
Weight (kg) 15.7

I assume that the draw figure is average not peak.

 

[Dellmassive]

yeh looks like 3A @ 12v so you should be ok.

Vitrifrigo C50i Fridge

but if your looking to add more loads to that rear fuse box . . . . . i would uprate the main feed cable to a larger/thinker one, as per @Pete C above.

and if you do that, you will need to uprate the ground cable from the rear bus-bar to 0v ground as well. So basically the main feeds to your rear fuse box will be capable of carrying the higher loads.

.

 

[Ann3x]

yeh looks like 3A @ 12v so you should be ok.

Vitrifrigo C50i Fridge

but if your looking to add more loads to that rear fuse box . . . . . i would uprate the main feed cable to a larger/thinker one, as per @Pete C above.

.

Not a load, probably a water pump, maybe a 12V socket. At least my fridge cabling can stay I guess! I'll just put it on a 10A fuse.

 

[mmi]

The criteria for fuse/cable size in referenced site is just 3% voltage drop, which of course should be considered if/when critical.

However, purely from safety point - for fuse size vs. wiring size VW has following requirements (for wirings in T6). And as above never hurts to have smaller fuse or thicker cable.

Body builder guidelines - The Transporter --> Body builder guidelines: Transporter - BodybuilderDatabase

 

[Ann3x]

The criteria for fuse/cable size in referenced site is just 3% voltage drop, which of course should be considered if/when critical.

However, purely from safety point - for fuse size vs. wiring size VW has following requirements (for wirings in T6). And as above never hurts to have smaller fuse or thicker cable.

Body builder guidelines - The Transporter --> Body builder guidelines: Transporter - BodybuilderDatabase
View attachment 40770

Nothing about length of run in that table which is a bit strange as it should play a big role in choice of wire....

 

[mmi]

Nothing about length of run in that table which is a bit strange as it should play a big role in choice of wire....

True, but not from safety point of view - this table just defines what size of fuse is needed to protect which size of wire so that it won't get too hot to cause problems - whatever the length it is as the heat distributes evenly along wire's length. So I would say the table just gives absolute minimum size of wire vs. fuse.

Certainly it won't make any sense to have a long minimum size wire at maximum current - the voltage drop would just eat all the energy. So for acceptable voltage drop vs. wire size the table you referenced can be used.

 

[travelvolts]

GThe fridge may only use 3 amps when it is running but on start up the compressor can draw 15 amps + and this is where the problems start. If your cable is insufficient the voltage drop will be too much and the fridge will think you have a low battery and will shut down. On a run like yours I would up the fuse box feed to 16 mm and the fridge supply to 6 mm

 

[Ann3x]

GThe fridge may only use 3 amps when it is running but on start up the compressor can draw 15 amps + and this is where the problems start. If your cable is insufficient the voltage drop will be too much and the fridge will think you have a low battery and will shut down. On a run like yours I would up the fuse box feed to 16 mm and the fridge supply to 6 mm

I guess I'd see that straight away on fridge start then? Intermittent issues or poor cooling?

 

[travelvolts]

More likely that you will see the fridge shutting off earlier than it should as the battery voltage falls.

 

[Ann3x]

More likely that you will see the fridge shutting off earlier than it should as the battery voltage falls.

And I guess symptom of this would be higher fridge temperature.

So in summary not a safety issue per se with my current wiring, but sub optimal in terms of utility performance.

 

[travelvolts]

It won't be a safety issue as long as the fuse is appropriate for the cable.

 

[Ann3x]

It won't be a safety issue as long as the fuse is appropriate for the cable.

Thanks everyone for the input. Super useful.

I think I'm going to go with my current setup for now, put a 10a fuse in the fuse box and monitor the fridges performance + limit number of additional items from the fuse box.

If the fridge flakes out I'll uprate the fuse box supply cable as suggested.

Great advice as always from this forum.

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Hi,

It mentions wiring in the instruction manual and states 15A fuse (from memory), we always use a 15A. That said, if a 10A does not break then you will be fine. Always ensure that the fuse is not rated higher than the cable or the cable may burn out before the fuse breaks. Don’t forget about volt drop as previously mentioned, thinner cable over same distance = more volt drop. We have used 4mm in the past for longer runs of cable (to minimise volt drop) but generally use 2,5mm when the fridge is typically within 4m. As long as the fuse is correct, the worst that will happen is that the fridge may cut out sooner as it is effectively receiving less voltage due to volt drop. It is really hard to determine this effect however as there are many factors affecting the fridge operation, ambient temp, amount of times the door is opened etc.

All the best,
Ian
Eclipse Campers

 

[Nuttymike]

Hi I'm a complete newbie here and was wondering if I Can I run a 50watt fridge on 12v? I have no idea when it comes to electrics

 

[Pete C]

Most people on here will have dedicated 12v fridges, designed for campers, boats etc. I guess this is what you mean. A common model is the WAECO Dometic CRX50 - have a look online to see what it looks like.
Fridges like this are designed to run off 12 volts, but will empty a typical vehicle or leisure battery in a couple of days, unless you have a battery charging solution - DC-DC convertor when driving the vehicle, solar, mains hook-up etc.

What do you need the fridge for ?

Pete

 

[Nuttymike]

Cheers Pete.just need it to keep a few cas cool and the dogs food fresh on weekends away and the odd bits like bacon for a sarnie

 

[Fluff34567]

Look at dometic even though its a parent company of waeco and they offer same/similar models the dometic is norm cheaper

 

[tonyteeth]

Hello everyone,I have just picked up my first t6 and do a lot of fishing,possibly looking at fitting a really small fridge in the back just for everyday essentials,can anybody recommend the cheapest and easiest way to do it please

 

[Pete C]

First question, how long will you want it to run for once you have stopped driving ?

Pete

 

[tonyteeth]

A few hours I would think,it doesn’t need to be on all the time,when I am not fishing it can be turned off,is there a way to run it off a sports battery