Fridge ventillation for kitchen units with door covering fridge

[yoshimi]

Hi all, I
I've had a good search but can't seem to find an answer.

I have kitchen furniture similar to this with a door that covers the fridge. After installing a new Dometic CRX50, I was wonderiung about airflow. Can't help but think with the door shut that it it isn't ventillated properly.

Does anyone have anything similar and any issues to report or modifications you've made?

Thanks

 

[Jeff G]

@yoshimi, I have same type of installation and cannot leave the door open. For over a year now I have used this little gadget and it has worked very well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fridge-Deodoriser-Fresheners-Rechargeable-Eliminator/dp/B0BR5C4HG3?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2QELVWFG63M1S

It is rechargeable and usually needs a charge every two weeks or so when on the low setting. It does the job!

 

[yoshimi]

Thanks @Jeff G - thats a nifty idea, now on shopping list But I was more wondering about the fridge is meant to suck air in fron underneath the front if that makes sense - like this...

EDIT - or am I overthinking it and just make sure that round the back / compressor needs to be well ventillated - thinking of chopping a hole in the kitchen furniture around near the compressor fan. Basically my CRX50 clone made by Revace has packed up pretty quickly (I tried everything to get it back working) and as I bought the van 2nd hand and have no warranty it's been a painfully expensive replacement.

I've now installed a pukka Dometic one, also wired direct to my battery with 6mm2 wire and inline fuse to try and avoid any future problems...and now going down a rabbit hole thinking about ventillation.

 

[Jeff G]

@yoshima, From what I have seen, all of my cabinets are vented to allow air flow around the exterior of the refrigerator, and indeed all cabinetry. .... (Hillside Birchover conversion).

Apologies, I thought you were enquiring about having to leave the fridge closed and the concern was related to the inside of the fridge becoming stale, which was my main concern at the time of purchasing the van. Have a look around and inside your cabinets for venting 'cut-outs' in the units panels?

 

[rod_vw]

I've fitted a couple of CR65 fridges that are tight against the insulation at the rear and have fitted a ventilation grill in the side panel by the fan and an additional 12v computer fan located in the opposite side panel. I.e. no air circulation around the fridge at all, just across the top where the cooling unit is.

I wired the computer fan via this type of thermostat with a resistor in circuit to reduce the fan speed. The 'stat sensor was fitted on the plumbing at the back of the fridge and I found that a setting of 45 degrees was good to keep the fridge cool in hot European weather. As a 'just in case' I also fitted a fixed thermo switch like this at about 70 degrees located in the same place as the other sensor that shorts out the resistor bringing the fan up to full speed in exceptional circumstances.

That arrangement has worked perfectly for me in all sorts of climates even a couple of years ago when we were in Holland and the temperature was up to 43 degrees!

 

[roadtripper]

This thread is about the 4th result on a search for "Fridge Ventilation"

Ventilation for fridge compressor

I'm fitting my regular 12v compressor fridge to a kitchen cabinet. Should I be concerned about adding ventilation to the kitchen cabinet or are these things ok with the air space that is available at the back of the units? What have people done with theirs? Some photos would be helpful. Thanks!

www.t6forum.com

 

[yoshimi]

@roadtripper - I had read that one but in hindsight should have tagged my questions to that one.

I suppose its more that the fridge can't draw air from the front and go underneath as the door is in the way.

But from replies here - thanks @rod_vw - I'm now think that as long as I get cross flow across the compressor/fan/fins at the back then it should be ok.

I do have a gap between the back of the fridge and the van 'wall' and the air can travel upwards as its not sealed (i.e. the work surface doesn't sit tight against the van wall ( theres a splash back that sits away from the wall) - plus the back of the units aren't boarded out.

Aas the other thread and @rod_vw have advised, I'm going to cut a vent in behind the drivers seat next to the fridge fan so it can draw air easier and with the back not being boxed in and having a gap that might be enough. I like the idea of an extra fan @rod_vw but above my skill grade at the moment plus alls it would do is pull it into the next cupboard with my arrangement. Something to think about though.

My concerns were all around not being able to pull air from the front and under the fridge, but hopingt he new vent will be enough.

Appreciate all the replies, thanks

 

[rod_vw]

@roadtripper - I had read that one but in hindsight should have tagged my questions to that one.

I suppose its more that the fridge can't draw air from the front and go underneath as the door is in the way.

But from replies here - thanks @rod_vw - I'm now think that as long as I get cross flow across the compressor/fan/fins at the back then it should be ok.

I do have a gap between the back of the fridge and the van 'wall' and the air can travel upwards as its not sealed (i.e. the work surface doesn't sit tight against the van wall ( theres a splash back that sits away from the wall) - plus the back of the units aren't boarded out.

Aas the other thread and @rod_vw have advised, I'm going to cut a vent in behind the drivers seat next to the fridge fan so it can draw air easier and with the back not being boxed in and having a gap that might be enough. I like the idea of an extra fan @rod_vw but above my skill grade at the moment plus alls it would do is pull it into the next cupboard with my arrangement. Something to think about though.

My concerns were all around not being able to pull air from the front and under the fridge, but hopingt he new vent will be enough.

Appreciate all the replies, thanks

@yoshimi the adjacent unit to my fridge was fitted with a SMEV 555 grill which has a vented top panel so that worked well. The side of the van was modified with the bottom lip of the inner steel where the normal panel should fix folded down to allow the fridge to go closer to the outer panel which in turn was insulated. We ran this one for almost seven years and 82,000 miles fitted out like this.

This van is now sold and I'm running a LWB MAN TGE

 

[roadtripper]

As I said on the other thread you'll get best performance by keeping in mind hot air is bouyant and wants to rise, and the rising air leaves low pressure behind and sucks in the cooler air - it's why a chimney works. Air doesn't like sharp bends or "congestion" where air can move more than one direction.

The closer you can get to that the more effective the cooling will be.

For instance rather than a long vent along a side you might be more effective to have a inlet vent well down and an outlet vent at top, maybe with a short baffle on the bottom to guide the air so it rises right under the radiator. Whereas a long vent doesn't have a way of getting a consistent stable natural airflow, rising hot air leaving near the top will draw air in all along the vent (path of least resistance) and that will likely not flow usefully near the radiator.

Forced ventilation from fans can help, but the more you can make of the natural ventilation the fridges radiator heating the air can give you the more use you are getting out the energy from your battery.

 

[yoshimi]

@roadtripper "For instance rather than a long vent along a side you might be more effective to have a inlet vent well down and an outlet vent at top, maybe with a short baffle on the bottom to guide the air so it rises right under the radiator. Whereas a long vent doesn't have a way of getting a consistent stable natural airflow, rising hot air leaving near the top will draw air in all along the vent (path of least resistance) and that will likely not flow usefully near the radiator."

That actually makes a lot of sense - I'll have a play and think about a lower vent placement tonight when I get home

 

[DXX]

Air convection flow for cooling - lower to higher, the path of least resistance is best. If not possible, the next best option. Every fridge has an Manual with installation instructions, available online if no paper copy.