First time help with ecoflow setup

MarcoUK said:
Hi all, I hope this is the right place for my ignorant question: is it possible to have fast charging for an Ecoflow unit as with the Clayton (Power LPS II 1500 or similar)???

My acknowledge about these systems is limited to me being able to switch on my River 2 Pro, that's it. It would be great to be able to charge it quickly with the engine running... Instead of the slow cigar plug option
Click to expand...
First advice is have a read of the extensive trials that @Dellmassive has done in this area.

The Clayton units have high power DC-DC systems in as they are designed as vehicle system rather than general purpose so you are unlikely to get the same performance.

Dellmassive has found if your system has an MPPT capable input and you are able to put in place a dedicated ignition live cable with suitable size and fuse they will often charge faster than the 8amps a cigar plug can do.
 
roadtripper said:
First advice is have a read of the extensive trials that @Dellmassive has done in this area.

The Clayton units have high power DC-DC systems in as they are designed as vehicle system rather than general purpose so you are unlikely to get the same performance.

Dellmassive has found if your system has an MPPT capable input and you are able to put in place a dedicated ignition live cable with suitable size and fuse they will often charge faster than the 8amps a cigar plug can do.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I started reading @Dellmassive tests but I get lost, sorry
 
This thread has saved me doing my own and post and lots of research! I was thinking this exact question yesterday 'Can the Delta 2 power a CRX50 for a few days'
 
However, the Clayton Power LPS 3000 does look a lovely bit of kit ha ha (many ££££)
 
I'm considering a Clayton for the new bus.......

But that's a way off ATM.
 
The Clayton pitch on paper looks very attractive and the design looks well thought through (even if not perfect for every case)

I'd be very interested in one getting the Dellmassive Real World shake down...
 
black_trany said:
HI all,

This is my first thread as i can't seem to find the answer to my question. Apologies if its been answered but hopefully you can help or point me in the right direction

I have a T6.1 that i am about to start the conversion i have a few questions but the main one is about wiring and the ECOFLOW delta.

I already have the ecoflow delta 1 (not the newer version 2 but the older version 1) Its a great unit and i use it for external power when i need.

My plan is to use the ecoflow delta as my main power source in the campervan conversion and not bother with a leisure battery setup.
I will plan to install a crx50 fridge, some kind of led lighting and probably a few usb sockets in the back with a reading lamp or similar. My question is how do i wire up the different options to run off the ecoflow. Most builds and wiring diagrams i see run LED lights and fridge off the leisure battery. I think the crx50 fridge runs off 12v so would that plug into the cigeratte style socket and would i simply need to wire the male adaptor to the loose wires at he back of the fridge? What about the LED lights and usb points in the rear and roof of van should they plug into one of the main sockets of the delta

I like van furniture U shape furniture and the ecoflow would fit in the cupboard,I will probably install solar which i think will help when stationary and there is sun. If and when it run out of power i would simple remove and plug into 12dc in the front or chage when i get home. Is ther away to wire a simple charging point to the cuboad so i dont have to remove the ecoflow if it runs out

All thoughts are helpful and what i was really looking for is some kind of wiring diagram for the delta and way to make to work

Thanks for you help
Click to expand...
Exactly what I’m looking to do with a ply guys setup!
 
The plan so far. EFD2 worked OK in summer (without everything hard wired in at that point). Not so much when cloudy. I've got a spare lead acid leisure battery I might incorporate to trickle charge EFD2 as @Dellmassive mentions.


WIRING DIAGRAM SNIP.JPG
 
That's a handy adaptor as soldering to the small lines in USB-C is a PITA. Just remember if you want the high speed charging then the data lines need to be connected too (unlike USB-A where generally you can just connect the power lines and most phones will just draw current at 5v until the voltage sags)

How are you finding the need to turn on the Ecoflow (rather than the always on of a traditional Leisure system) in actual use? I'd always considered that would be annoying?
 
roadtripper said:
That's a handy adaptor as soldering to the small lines in USB-C is a PITA. Just remember if you want the high speed charging then the data lines need to be connected too (unlike USB-A where generally you can just connect the power lines and most phones will just draw current at 5v until the voltage sags)

How are you finding the need to turn on the Ecoflow (rather than the always on of a traditional Leisure system) in actual use? I'd always considered that would be annoying?
Click to expand...
Thanks I didn't know that. That may change my plan slightly!

I just leave it on. Turn it on when I leave home, turn it off when I get back. I'm always using the app to turn on/off certain outputs to reduce power use. But it's not too much hassle really.
 
You should still get moderate fast charging with just the power lines connected and good low voltage drop cable but it will only be at 5V and top out at between 1.0 to 1.4 amps.

The data lines need to be connected so the device and socket (in the Ecoflow) can talk to each other and pick either 9v or 12v charging which is how you get higher wattage. No communication means 5v only to stay safe. High voltages are possible (15v and 20v are common in USB-C charged laptops) in the standard though often not provided inherently by 12v sources to avoid needing additional voltage step up electronics.

Current wise you generally want to think 3A (5A is possible but needs special cables with a marker chip to enable)

You can't daisy chain devices here either due to the 1:1 nature of the device to charger voltage negotiation - so your diagram is right about having one extended socket per port on the Ecoflow.

This also applies to any "traditional" USB-A socket with the blue insert.

Like all these things worth a dry run of your approach on the kitchen worktop before committing to running wire and drilling holes in the van.
 
roadtripper said:
You should still get moderate fast charging with just the power lines connected and good low voltage drop cable but it will only be at 5V and top out at between 1.0 to 1.4 amps.

The data lines need to be connected so the device and socket (in the Ecoflow) can talk to each other and pick either 9v or 12v charging which is how you get higher wattage. No communication means 5v only to stay safe. High voltages are possible (15v and 20v are common in USB-C charged laptops) in the standard though often not provided inherently by 12v sources to avoid needing additional voltage step up electronics.

Current wise you generally want to think 3A (5A is possible but needs special cables with a marker chip to enable)

You can't daisy chain devices here either due to the 1:1 nature of the device to charger voltage negotiation - so your diagram is right about having one extended socket per port on the Ecoflow.

This also applies to any "traditional" USB-A socket with the blue insert.

Like all these things worth a dry run of your approach on the kitchen worktop before committing to running wire and drilling holes in the van.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Thanks for the advice.

I don't think this is really how the EFD2 was designed to be used, so I'm expecting to have to change a few things along the way.
 
Just to update my experience from the previous posts in this thread.

The EF didn’t hold up sufficiently when it was cloudy/autumn just being charged by the 155w solar, and I didn’t drive far enough to trickle the measly 100w via ignition live. My power requirements were very modest compared to fridges etc.

So every week I was having to run mains power out to the van on the drive and fully charge the EF.

So sold it and have reverted to plan a - dc-dc and lithium leisure battery. I am struggling to discharge it now and my 25 min each way commute is keeping it charged.

Not even reconnected the solar back to it yet and may not bother.
 
Hey Guys,

Just to update you on the Ecoflow delta 2 Max that i set up in my T6 instead of a leisure battery system.

Everything works pretty good except for the diesel heater. The fridge lasts a good few days off grid and i have a cable run to the cigarette lighter so when i need to drive it tops it up ok.

I recently got the autoterm 2d installed and it doesn't work with it unfortunately. I didn't realise there would be such a high start up current with it, so there is a voltage drop to about 8/9 volts, and an undervoltage fault comes up on the diesal heater control panel and it shuts off.

The max output on the 12v supply on the ecoflow is 10amps and the diesel heater requires around 130-140 watts on start up for the first few minutes to heat up the glow plugs on it. So im short about 10-20 watts to get it going.

So now i need to install a leisure battery system anyway to power the diesel heater. If i was to do it all again I wouldnt bother with the ecoflow as I think its a bit restrictive.

For example If you want to power the lights of it, you would need to first switch on the unit and then the light switch, if you keep it on all the time it slowly uses up a small bit of power. Its ok if your off on a trip for a few days and you need it on anyway powering the fridge.

The other thing i noticed last month when i was testing the two 100w ecoflow solar panels i installed. With no power being drawn on the ecoflow i actually lost more power then gaining any. That being said there was hardly any sun out, i think the max i got off the 2 panels was about 30w for about 4 hours. So im not sure where it was using the power, maybe its checking to see if theres enough sun to take in the solar, not sure. If anyone has any ideas on this please let me know.

Now because i have the diesal heater pipe coming in under the driver seat im a bit restricted with the space under there to put in a battery next to the pipe. Does anyone know of a good battery to use that would fit in a space 33x18x19cm (LxWxH) as i need to try and fit it to the side of the pipe. And would anyone know of a good solution on a setup where i could have a leisure battery set up which could also charge the ecoflow unit.

I think the best thing i can do is have the fridge, diesal heater, lights etc running of the leisure battery, and use the ecoflow for powering the moniter that i will be installing for work. And also use the ecoflow as a backup to the fridge when going off grid. I just cant get my head around how im going to wire it up, any ideas would be a great help.

And if yas have any more questions about the ecoflow unit just let me know il be glad to help

Cheers!
 
rubbertoa said:
Hey Guys,

Just to update you on the Ecoflow delta 2 Max that i set up in my T6 instead of a leisure battery system.

Everything works pretty good except for the diesel heater. The fridge lasts a good few days off grid and i have a cable run to the cigarette lighter so when i need to drive it tops it up ok.

I recently got the autoterm 2d installed and it doesn't work with it unfortunately. I didn't realise there would be such a high start up current with it, so there is a voltage drop to about 8/9 volts, and an undervoltage fault comes up on the diesal heater control panel and it shuts off.

The max output on the 12v supply on the ecoflow is 10amps and the diesel heater requires around 130-140 watts on start up for the first few minutes to heat up the glow plugs on it. So im short about 10-20 watts to get it going.

So now i need to install a leisure battery system anyway to power the diesel heater. If i was to do it all again I wouldnt bother with the ecoflow as I think its a bit restrictive.

For example If you want to power the lights of it, you would need to first switch on the unit and then the light switch, if you keep it on all the time it slowly uses up a small bit of power. Its ok if your off on a trip for a few days and you need it on anyway powering the fridge.

The other thing i noticed last month when i was testing the two 100w ecoflow solar panels i installed. With no power being drawn on the ecoflow i actually lost more power then gaining any. That being said there was hardly any sun out, i think the max i got off the 2 panels was about 30w for about 4 hours. So im not sure where it was using the power, maybe its checking to see if theres enough sun to take in the solar, not sure. If anyone has any ideas on this please let me know.

Now because i have the diesal heater pipe coming in under the driver seat im a bit restricted with the space under there to put in a battery next to the pipe. Does anyone know of a good battery to use that would fit in a space 33x18x19cm (LxWxH) as i need to try and fit it to the side of the pipe. And would anyone know of a good solution on a setup where i could have a leisure battery set up which could also charge the ecoflow unit.

I think the best thing i can do is have the fridge, diesal heater, lights etc running of the leisure battery, and use the ecoflow for powering the moniter that i will be installing for work. And also use the ecoflow as a backup to the fridge when going off grid. I just cant get my head around how im going to wire it up, any ideas would be a great help.

And if yas have any more questions about the ecoflow unit just let me know il be glad to help

Cheers!
Click to expand...
Unfortunately that is where I got to - sold the Ecoflow and went back to installing a dc-dc charger, lithium leisure battery and Victron mppt for the solar. And I don’t have a fridge or diesel heater so my power requirements are more modest than yours.

The Ecoflow and other similar products have their uses but I just don’t think they are right as a replacement for a leisure battery.
 
Did anyone consider (or try) hardwiring the van 12v (switched) to a suitable connector to plug into the EcoFlow Deltas solar input?
The spec sheet for my Delta 2 states this socket can accept 11-60v DC at 15W max. So that should give a better charging rate when driving.

Incidentally, I have encountered the same issue with permanently connected solar: on a dull day, the solar manages to “wake” the Delta 2 without putting enough charge into it to support the internal needs, meaning that the state of charge level actually drops even when there is nothing drawing from it.
 
Shaun Witts said:
Did anyone consider (or try) hardwiring the van 12v (switched) to a suitable connector to plug into the EcoFlow Deltas solar input?
The spec sheet for my Delta 2 states this socket can accept 11-60v DC at 15W max. So that should give a better charging rate when driving.

Incidentally, I have encountered the same issue with permanently connected solar: on a dull day, the solar manages to “wake” the Delta 2 without putting enough charge into it to support the internal needs, meaning that the state of charge level actually drops even when there is nothing drawing from it.
Click to expand...



Yes, I used an XT60 connector to plug into the solar input of the Ecoflow. This then connected via a changeover switch to both the 12v ignition supply and the solar panel input.



I was still only getting 12-14v in from ignition live which equated to around 100w which really didn't charge it very much at all on my daily commute.
 
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