I’ve only used mine twice, and one of those was someone else’s car, but they didn’t suffer any damage, even the sharp little teeth are still intact.
Getting Stuck In The Mud
- Thread starter sofakingwrong
- Start date
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- esc esp traction control
2wd drive camper with DSG - traction is crud which is why I always try to avoid going onto grassy slopes and insist on hard standing for camping between around September and May.
When I do have to park up on grass, to move off I just stick it into drive but keep my foot off of the accelerator and let the electronics do their thing - carry some grip mats at all times but so far not had to use them.
When I do have to park up on grass, to move off I just stick it into drive but keep my foot off of the accelerator and let the electronics do their thing - carry some grip mats at all times but so far not had to use them.
Mud tyres work in mud mainly because of the "bars" on the side walls, once any tyre treads are full with mud they will spin.
getting out of a stuck situation, depends on where, and who is around to help you.
Often just the push from a passenger is enough to get some momentum, but I find "Keep going" is the trick, once you are moving, don't slow down as a couple of tons of momentum stops you getting stuck in the first place.
Then if you are stuck, don't spin the wheels as you just drop deeper into a hole that is even more difficult to climb out of, rocking back and forwards definitely works. I once spent a hour getting out of sand and going back and forwards without spinning flattened out the hole until I had enough momentum to keep going and ride up out of the hole.
If you are in holes, on your own, you need to fill each side of the tyres with "Stuff" and then continue the back/forwards method into you ride up over it using the "Stuff" for extra grip, then keep going until you are on firm ground and then walk back for your gear. If you have a compressor onboard, then drop the tyre pressures down to 1 Bar.
getting out of a stuck situation, depends on where, and who is around to help you.
Often just the push from a passenger is enough to get some momentum, but I find "Keep going" is the trick, once you are moving, don't slow down as a couple of tons of momentum stops you getting stuck in the first place.
Then if you are stuck, don't spin the wheels as you just drop deeper into a hole that is even more difficult to climb out of, rocking back and forwards definitely works. I once spent a hour getting out of sand and going back and forwards without spinning flattened out the hole until I had enough momentum to keep going and ride up out of the hole.
If you are in holes, on your own, you need to fill each side of the tyres with "Stuff" and then continue the back/forwards method into you ride up over it using the "Stuff" for extra grip, then keep going until you are on firm ground and then walk back for your gear. If you have a compressor onboard, then drop the tyre pressures down to 1 Bar.
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Pretty standard practice with off roaders on soft ground and sand - you flatten the tyre out to increase the surface area of the rubber in contact with the ground.
Many times. But using a decent compressor that has a good duty cycle.
Also just to add, Know where your steering wheel is pointing, so many times I see 4x4s going along ruts with their front wheels at 45 degrees. That is because they didn't count the turns and have not properly straightened up the wheel. This just slows progress and adds drag.
If you are in ruts you will find it very difficult to climb out of ruts if your wheels are spinning, what you do is keep up your speed right up until you need to make your turn, then lift-off and turn, then return to the power once you have popped out. If you fail then reverse back (with wheels straight) and repeat.
If you are in ruts you will find it very difficult to climb out of ruts if your wheels are spinning, what you do is keep up your speed right up until you need to make your turn, then lift-off and turn, then return to the power once you have popped out. If you fail then reverse back (with wheels straight) and repeat.
Guess what I’ve been trying today
Bigtrucknuts
Member
Pauly how the hell did you find this out! I searched all over the place and got nowhere.
So I tried it out tonight on the way home and yes completely works. Not sure why the other fella is cancelling after a meter because mine stays off until the ignition is cycled.
I am so happy about this. I also fitted Mud and Snow rated tyres but on very slippy serfaces the stability program just has a melt down and will not move the van.
I fully understand that spinning the tyres is usually not the answer but the ability to switch off traction control is essential in some situations.
So thanks Pauly and how did you find this out, I must know!
So I tried it out tonight on the way home and yes completely works. Not sure why the other fella is cancelling after a meter because mine stays off until the ignition is cycled.
I am so happy about this. I also fitted Mud and Snow rated tyres but on very slippy serfaces the stability program just has a melt down and will not move the van.
I fully understand that spinning the tyres is usually not the answer but the ability to switch off traction control is essential in some situations.
So thanks Pauly and how did you find this out, I must know!
Can we not pin this instruction on a locked down thread titled. What to do in mud and snow or anything slippy.
Bigtrucknuts
Member
One more thing, Alter, I almost went for BFs myself but got a very good deal on an alternative. How do you find the BFs to live with. Particularly the noise level and have they had any effect on fuel consumption?
... with the BF I find myself very well, at the beginning the noise that, at least on my T6, it feels more 'between 50-80 km / h, gave me a little annoyance. When I mounted these tires I knew that they would be noisier, but the benefits of having them are greater than the discomfort ... Now I'm used to it and I do not notice it (I'm also old and deaf) ...
I tried several times the procedure to exclude traction control, it seems that it works (the buzzer sounds and the warning light turns on) but as soon as I move, both forward and backward, everything is reset, too bad.
I tried several times the procedure to exclude traction control, it seems that it works (the buzzer sounds and the warning light turns on) but as soon as I move, both forward and backward, everything is reset, too bad.
.... I forgot ... sorry ... with the BF consumption does not seem to me to increase because with these tires it becomes normal to have a less fast and sporty pace ... last week I bought a Jeep Renegade, also on this machine I will assemble BG K02 as soon as possible ....
I tried the hazard light/ accelerator trick and sure enough, a dash indication comes up to say traction control and tyre pressure monitor is deactivated. However, as soon as I put it in Drive, it resets back to normal.
Anyone got this to work with a DSG box, so that it stays deactivated when you move off?
Anyone got this to work with a DSG box, so that it stays deactivated when you move off?
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Bigtrucknuts
Member
Ahh that’s the difference, it works on mine because I have a manual gear box.
