[Guide] Clayton LPS II 2500 - 1kWh (leisure battery + Inverter) -- How I Done It --

[roadtripper]

There is only a single inverter in the Clayton regardless of if you are using the 3 pin socket on the front or other sockets wired to the 240v out.

Treat it as a single 13 pin plug - you wouldn't plug a hob and a kettle into a 4 plug strip and into the wall so don't expect that to work on a Clayton (and frankly the same is true of any EHU setup as they are all limited to a max of 16A by the connectors)

Every 240v appliance will have a rating plate on it listing the average draw in watts. Add those up and compare them to that rated output of the inverter. Keep to about 80% of total capacity as individual appliances vary. So if you have a 2000w / 2kw inverter don't use more than 1600w.

Be aware that any 240v appliance that has a motor or a resistive (glowing) heating element will draw quite a bit more when it switches on. Those types of devices you should probably only use one at a time if you are running off the inverter. So things like a microwave, coffee machine, hair dryer, oil radiator.

For runtime calculations then we need to account for about 80% efficiency in the inverter and the fact that the Clayton will cut off at 20% of charge to protect the battery. So for a 100aH battery you will have 80aH (100 x 0.8) of usable capacity for both the 12v and 240v systems. If you use that mostly for 240v then you will have 64aH (80 x 0.8) of usable capacity.

Then for each 100w of load you will use around 8aH (100w / 12v) of capacity per hour. For example a 2kw kettle would use ( 2000 / 100 ) x 8 = 160aH if left on for an hour; however if we assume 5 minutes than boiling a kettle will use (160 / 60) x 5 = 13.5aH

If you're now thinking "but that means I can only boil the kettle around 4 times before the battery is empty" - you're right. 240v heating appliances consume an enormous amount of power, you just don't notice it until you have to generate that power yourself.

A Clayton with a 2500w inverter and a 100aH battery has about 20 minutes of run time at full power on 240v. It will then take about 2 hours to recharge off engine, probably around 1.5 hours off EHU.

 

[30 Year Dream]

Thanks Al

Will be experimenting in sunny Ireland next week! First trip. Super excited!

Keith

 

[roadtripper]

Thanks Al

Will be experimenting in sunny Ireland next week! First trip. Super excited!

Keith

Enjoy! Take lots of pics and update us when you get back

 

[Jet]

I need to ask what is potentially a daft question, I have an LPS II 3000 just plonked in the back of the van, it's connected to 180 watt solar panel, the battery is 98%. What happens to the excess production from the panel, heat perhaps. I'm wondering if I should plug something in to protect the battery/panel?

 

[d8smt]

Hi, really interesting write up on the LPS, very useful, thanks.
I have a question about how I go with mine. I'm mulling whether it's better to expand what's already there or rip it out and start afresh. Would appreciate thoughts.

So I have the LPS 1 100Ah. After some niggling issues, I did a reset on it and it's now working as it should. I've just run it in a 1500 Mile trip round Europe, so have got to get with how it works and is set up now.
It has a 240v EHU correctly configured to both bypass (with separating fuse/RCD, conveniently placed beneath the sink) and charge the LPS, as well as 12v charging from the alternator. The EHU split allows electric cooking directly from the EHU feed to a 240v socket.
I'm only really running the Domestic CRX50 fridge from the 12v, but there are 12v LCD lights in the van as well as a 12v phone charger/USB and a water pump. Plus there is some device somewhere, yet to be located, that also occasionally draws minimal current. There's also the LPS remote.
If I need to cook, I'll use the 240v EHU for induction or microwave, or good old fashioned gas outside the van.

So the issue I have is that the 100Ah is inadequate to run the fridge more than about 18 hour, which sorry of makes sense since the available post from the LPS is only really around 80Ah. Also, the LPS can be configured to either time out after 10h if you want to leave the fridge running when your switch the ignition off, or your can run the LPS indefinitely until it drains but you then have to go into the back of the van and switch the 12v on each time you switch the engine off. Ideally I want both these options combined!

I'm planning off grid use for 3-4 days at a time. So I will need to add solar (which I think if possible if you route it through an mppt to the DC terminals of the LPS?) and ideally another LiFeO4 battery of ~ 250Ah into the mix.

So 2 questions (having already read the excellent advice and treating on the thread above):

1. - how best to add in the additional battery and solar based on experience ? Do you have the alternator and solar panel charge the additional lithium battery directly, then feed this into the LPS to drip feed the LPS? Or do you 'spilt charge' the 12v from the alternator to the LPS and the additional lithium battery, then use the additional battery to charge (top) up the LPS as the LPS is draining? With solar directly to the LPS?

2. Or, as I'm currently thinking, just replace the whole damn thing with a new inverter/charger/MPPT/RCD box and higher capacity battery since the wiring is already in there and sell the LPS on, since it's actually a decent unit for everyday needs?

Would appreciate thoughts given all the expertise you already have done on the skunk works programs on the LPS!

Cheers
Dave

 

[CAB]

I need to ask what is potentially a daft question, I have an LPS II 3000 just plonked in the back of the van, it's connected to 180 watt solar panel, the battery is 98%. What happens to the excess production from the panel, heat perhaps. I'm wondering if I should plug something in to protect the battery/panel?

Not a daft question.

It doesn't go anywhere.

Just like a Solar panel that is not connected, the cells are ready to provide a current, but if there is nothing taking that current, if just sits there, ready. Doesn't cause any damage to the panel or the cells.