[Guide] Renogy IP67 50A DC-DC Charger + MPPT (for leisure battery) -- How We Done It --

[Dellmassive]

um. . . well the book says to mot use the EXTERNAL temp sensor for Lithium battery setup,

so the TEMP i see from the APP was 25c default with No temp sensor connected - and a second MPPT internal unit temp that always works.

...

will report here when renogy get back to me.
....


To Be Fair - Low temp charge protection should be a feature of the lithium battery BMS and down to the charger.


Some of the Renogy Bats have LTP.

the Cheap Budget Lifepo4s donr have it.

.

 

[steveratcliffe]

So if you were starting a new system from scratch, would you consider building around one of these rather than potentially 3 separate units from other manufacturers?

I'm looking at a system to manage charging leisure battery from system/starter battery and solar panel, plus trickle charging starter battery from leisure/solar when vehicle not run for a while. I've always been a bit of a Victron fan, but have to say I'm struggling to justify putting in individual DC-DC, MPPT, trickle charger, BMS etc. when units such as this seem to offer all the same functionality from a single unit, with a single point of configuration/monitoring etc..

Interested to know if your testing proved it's worth in maintaining starter battery from leisure/solar when vehicle not run for a while?

Cheers, Steve.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

FWIW my Renogy DC-DC system has worked really well for about three years now. (Full disclaimer the 50A unit was replaced by the latest version when the original burnt out with an internal fault, see another thread for details) It does everything I want very well in a small packaged unit that allows me to fit a 100ah Lithium battery and all the units including fusebox under the single passenger seat. I also have a Victron shunt fitted so have multiple means of checking all the parameters but to be honest I mostly just eyeball the standard voltage display in my cabinet.
The van has sat on the drive for a few weeks at a time summer and winter with the compressor fridge on. The Renogy uses a 160w solar panel to keep the house and vehicle battery charged. In the winter the Renogy also takes care of low temperature charging cut off.
So from my practical experience, yes it does what you want very well.

 

[steveratcliffe]

FWIW my Renogy DC-DC system has worked really well for about three years now. (Full disclaimer the 50A unit was replaced by the latest version when the original burnt out with an internal fault, see another thread for details) It does everything I want very well in a small packaged unit that allows me to fit a 100ah Lithium battery and all the units including fusebox under the single passenger seat. I also have a Victron shunt fitted so have multiple means of checking all the parameters but to be honest I mostly just eyeball the standard voltage display in my cabinet.
The van has sat on the drive for a few weeks at a time summer and winter with the compressor fridge on. The Renogy uses a 160w solar panel to keep the house and vehicle battery charged. In the winter the Renogy also takes care of low temperature charging cut off.
So from my practical experience, yes it does what you want very well.

Thanks for this, helps a lot! Does it keep the vehicle battery topped up from house/leisure battery bank even when little/no output from solar? That's the bit I'm having to read between the lines on a bit, as the spec/Dell's rundown talks about trickle charging vehicle battery from solar but the way I read it at least not necessarily from the other battery? This question maybe a little fuelled by my naivety having never had a solar source on a vehicle before, and just assuming there could be days in the winter where next to nothing will be generated from solar. Thanks again.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Thanks for this, helps a lot! Does it keep the vehicle battery topped up from house/leisure battery bank even when little/no output from solar? That's the bit I'm having to read between the lines on a bit, as the spec/Dell's rundown talks about trickle charging vehicle battery from solar but the way I read it at least not necessarily from the other battery? This question maybe a little fuelled by my naivety having never had a solar source on a vehicle before, and just assuming there could be days in the winter where next to nothing will be generated from solar. Thanks again.

I believe it uses Solar and not the house battery to keep your vehicle battery topped up. It's logic will fill the house battery first then go to work on the vehicle battery.
My van is parked in the north of Scotland on a sloping drive with the solar panel facing north and it seems to work fine. Guessing the longest I have left it is about three weeks and I almost never turn the fridge off but did for maybe a month last winter, think it was warmer in the fridge than it was outside then though.
Sure a suite of Victron kit would do the same thing but maybe not at the price of the Renogy

 

[morganwood70]

I've just installed one of these chargers into my T6. It's not charging the aux battery, I think it's because I have a smart alternator so it's looking for greater than 13.5v on the starter battery but it's only seeing 12.6v

Anyone got any ideas ?

 

[Dellmassive]

I've just installed one of these chargers into my T6. It's not charging the aux battery, I think it's because I have a smart alternator so it's looking for greater than 13.5v on the starter battery but it's only seeing 12.6v

Anyone got any ideas ?

Turn your internal blower into speed #2 or turn the headlights on.

That will jump up the system voltage and trigger the charger.

More info on the techy bit in this post..


Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure


Post in thread 'Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure' Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure



...

 

[Van Shack Benny]

Hi dellmassive

Thought I’d post here on this thread as it’s a bit more recent than the seat base electrics thread from 2021. After a fair amount of deliberation I’ve decided to put half of the install on a bulkhead behind the drivers seat. The main reason being wanting to avoid stuff overheating, I maybe being a bit too precautionary. Anyway, could you please have a look over the wiring plan I’ve used, which is based upon renogys own advice found online….



I got the Renogy installation kit from simply split charge, but I seem to have a spare 80A fuse, have I missed something? Here are a few more pics of the install



The cables to starter battery routed as follows



Coming out in engine bay, and fuse located next to starter battery



I was going to fit a Sargent, but it seems superfluous now, can I run fridge, lights, pump, heater, gas solenoid etc from a small blade fuse box located on the same bulkhead? I’ve got EHU coming in from the back, consumer unit will be in a cupboard half way down the van



Do I need to earth the small earth block in the consumer unit to the van chassis? I’ve taken a 6A feed from the consumer unit to the seat base for an AC charger. I’m looking at the victron blue smart 12/20 at around £122, but there’s also the fogstar drift charger at only £65, would that be adequate? Also, can the AC charger be permanently wired onto the 2 bus bars i.e. connected to the whole system but switched on only when connected to 240? And will the ac charger charge both the leisure and starter batteries if wired to the 2 bus bars?

Sorry if some of this is very basic entry level stuff, but I am finding the electrics the most difficult aspect of the conversion to get my head round. I have the Renogy One for monitoring and control, which will be next to double socket and gas solenoid above the kitchen worktop. It has 3 switches which I inten d to use for lighting. Can I run a single live feed from the bus bar to the Renogy One for all 3 light switches, or should they all have individual circuits and separate fuses coming from the 12v fuse block? The Renogy One has its own power input too, should this be fused or is there a fuse built into it?

Many thanks in advance for any advice greatly appreciated!!

 

[Dellmassive]

just a quick look. . .

RED - the 60A fuse needs to be moved as close as possible to the LB POS terminal.

Black - just ground the black NEG to chassis as close to the LB NEG terminal as poss, i wouldnt run back to the starter battery. ( i know the Renogy install guide shows that, but the vans bodywork is a much better NEG)

 

[Dellmassive]

if you really want to use that black NEG cable, you can GROUND it here,

but personally id just leave it as a spare for a later date,

or just pull it out.

basically dont connect it to the SB battery NEG post

.

 

[Dellmassive]

just a quick look. . .

RED - the 60A fuse needs to be moved as close as possible to the LB POS terminal.

Black - just ground the black NEG to chassis as close to the LB NEG terminal as poss, i wouldnt run back to the starter battery. ( i know the Renogy install guide shows that, but the vans bodywork is a much better NEG)



View attachment 249977

another option,

is to leave that fuse where it is,

and just fit a new fuse next to the LB POS terminal..


do you have a spare fuse?

 

[Van Shack Benny]

That’s great thanks for the feedback. I have got another fuse but it’s no trouble moving it next to the LB, and I’ll just pull the neg cable to SB out, that will come in handy elsewhere! The battery arrived on Saturday so hoping to get the system going soon. My “smart” battery charger won’t do lithium, so I do need to get a charger. What are your thoughts on victron versus fogstar?

Many thanks again

 

[Dellmassive]

for a mains CHARGER - Victron all day long.


example

ip65 15A

https://amzn.to/3zvpvnc

 

[dinks66]

for a mains CHARGER - Victron all day long.


example

ip65 15A

https://amzn.to/3zvpvnc

View attachment 250007

Hi Dellmassive,
I am just about to go down this route. Could you advise where to connect the AC Charger on the above circuit diagram so that it will charge both leisure and starter batteries. Also having a LIFEPO leisure and Normal lead acid starter battery, what setting should I set on the AC charger ?? I am easily confused by the way !!!

 

[Dellmassive]

Hi Dellmassive,
I am just about to go down this route. Could you advise where to connect the AC Charger on the above circuit diagram so that it will charge both leisure and starter batteries. Also having a LIFEPO leisure and Normal lead acid starter battery, what setting should I set on the AC charger ?? I am easily confused by the way !!!

You can connect the charger to the starter battery POS via a fuse. And the NEG to chassis.

Set the charger to AGM profile for the starter battery.

Then when the starter battery starts to charge.... The Renogy DC-DC will kick in and start charging the leisure battery.

You will notice the Renogy will cycle on off as the starter battery rises and falls..... You can tweak the settings as needed.

 

[dinks66]

You can connect the charger to the starter battery POS via a fuse. And the NEG to chassis.

Set the charger to AGM profile for the starter battery.

Then when the starter battery starts to charge.... The Renogy DC-DC will kick in and start charging the leisure battery.

You will notice the Renogy will cycle on off as the starter battery rises and falls..... You can tweak the settings as needed.

Thanks for that Delmassive !! Makes a bit more sense now that you have explained it properly. Do you still have a valid discount code for Renogy by any chance that I could use please. Thanks in advance.

 

[Dellmassive]

Sure.

I can get you a discount at Renogy United Kingdom

Hey, if you're ever looking for Renogy United Kingdom products, let me know and I can get you a discount at Renogy United Kingdom. Here's a coupon if you need one now:

renogyuk.refr.cc

.

 

[rod_vw]

Hi @Dellmassive I'm looking for a bit of advice as you seem to have evaluated the latest version of the Renogy IP67-50a dc dc charger with MPPT

My current van is a 2023 MAN TGE which has considerable drain on the starter battery whenever the van is unlocked, door opened etc. which results in low starter battery volts if the van is not run for a couple of weeks or so but accessed frequently. Hence I need something that will trickle charge the starter battery from the solar/leisure circuit.

Currently installed is...
2 x 100W PV connected in parallel (I don't know the make at present)
1 x Roamer 230S3 Lithium battery
1 x Victron Blue Smart Charger 12¦15¦1 output
1 x Victron Smart Solar MPPT 75¦15
1 x Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12¦12 - 30 DC-DC Charger
1 x Renology 2000W Inverter

As I see it my options are...

• Swop out the Smart Solar and Orion for a Renogy IP67-50a dc dc charger with MPPT and utilise the starter battery output to trickle that battery.
• Keep what I have and add a Vanbitz Battery Master
• Swop the Orion-Tr for an Orion XS and use the existing Orion-Tr configured as an output to trickle the starter circuit which I believe is an option.
• Non of the above, please add your suggestion.

My further question from your investigations into the later Renogy IP67-50a dc dc do you consider that the old problems of overheating / fire have been eliminated as far as you can tell?

PS, if you ever consider coming onto the Crafter and TGE Forum you will be most welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Rod

 

[Dellmassive]

H @Dellmassive I'm looking for a bit of advice as you seem to have evaluated the latest version of the Renogy IP67-50a dc dc charger with MPPT

My current van is a 2023 MAN TGE which has considerable drain on the starter battery whenever the van is unlocked, door opened etc. which results in low starter battery volts if the van is not run for a couple of weeks or so but accessed frequently. Hence I need something that will trickle charge the starter battery from the solar/leisure circuit.

Currently installed is...
2 x 100W PV connected in parallel (I don't know the make at present)
1 x Roamer 230S3 Lithium battery
1 x Victron Blue Smart Charger 12¦15¦1 output
1 x Victron Smart Solar MPPT 75¦15
1 x Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12¦12 - 30 DC-DC Charger
1 x Renology 2000W Inverter

As I see it my options are...

• Swop out the Smart Solar and Orion for a Renogy IP67-50a dc dc charger with MPPT and utilise the starter battery output to trickle that battery.
• Keep what I have and add a Vanbitz Battery Master
• Swop the Orion-Tr for an Orion XS and use the existing Orion-Tr configured as an output to trickle the starter circuit which I believe is an option.
• Non of the above, please add your suggestion.

My further question from your investigations into the later Renogy IP67-50a dc dc do you consider that the old problems of overheating / fire have been eliminated as far as you can tell?

PS, if you ever consider coming onto the Crafter and TGE Forum you will be most welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Rod

Looks like a nice setup.

So what I would do.. would be to add in a Abelmail AMT12-2.

I've got one on both vans now and it works perfectly..... (I've also got the 230ah lithium, and 50A DC-DC etc etc on both vans.)

I've also added in the Abelmail Bluetooth adapter to twerk the AMT settings... Not required as such, but good for geeks that like that's stuff.

I've got mine set to trickle charge the starter battery when it's volts drop below 11.99v.

Standard profile will charge with 4A pulse for 4sec every 16sec.... That's enough to keep the starter from running flat, even with a considerable drain.

Give Abelmail a quick call. Ask for Jonathan and say you spoken with me and he will run over the best program profile.... And will also pre program the unit for you so it's plug and play...

Just connect it in right next to your DC-DC charger.

Let me know how you get on..


...

[Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It --

[Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It -- Right so its that time of year again . . . . . . . . Winter & (Lockdown 2020) The van might be layed up not being used, which will lead to a flat battery in around 3 weeks. The cold weather doesn't help the battery's...

www.t6forum.com

..

 

[TallPaul_S]

Wot 'e said. ^^ @Dellmassive



The Ablemail AMT12-2 is highly recommended. My van doesn't do a lot of miles, and can be sat on the driveway for 2-3 weeks at a time, with door opening, unlocking, electtric sliding doors being opening etc. Prior to having the Ablemail fitted mine would drop to 12v or below after 10-15 days of not being driven.

Since fitting it 2 months ago my SB never goes below 12.3v. I don't give it a second thought now.