Help with Adding 230v Hookup

[8balladdict]

Hi all,

Looking to add 230v hookup to my existing setup. This is mainly just for battery charging and maintenance rather than for running 230v appliances.

I've created some wiring diagrams of the current system and how I think it will need to look post install. I'm not the best at understanding electrics so I'm sure the diagrams I've put together aren't 100% accurate but I've tried my best. I know there grounds probably aren't right for starters. I didn't install all of the electrics in the van so I'm making some assumptions as I can't easily access the current system without removing the seats and furniture etc.

However.....I'm thinking of getting the Victron IP22 Blue Smart 12/20 3-output charger so I can connect it to both my starter and leisure batteries. I know I need to get a 2 pole RCD and breakers. Planning on putting the charger on one circuit and then having some spare 3-pins on another circuit.

Do the diagrams look right and is there a better way of doing this?

Current system



Proposed design



Any advice....or criticism welcome.

Cheers all.

 

[Dellmassive]

you dont need the SCR,

the CTEK connects direct to the Starter battery.

All battery connections need to be fused.

 

[Dellmassive]

only the shunt connects to the LB,

all the other NEGS go to chassis or a NEG busbar.

 

[Dellmassive]

the CU needs a chassis PE link.

 

[Dellmassive]

fuses are needed here:

 

[8balladdict]

Thanks @Dellmassive

The existing battery connections are fused, I’ve just not marked them on the diagram and I will fuse the new connections from the battery charger.

 

[Dellmassive]

Is that the right way to connect the charger though, direct pos and neg to both batteries?

- just one chassis NEG is needed, next to the charger.



++++++++


C in the below would be the vans chassis. . . a common NEG.

 

[Gsixty]

Is there a -ve connection from the leisure battery -ve to the van chassis? I cant see one so how does the ctek charge the LB?

 

[Salty Spuds]

Should you decide to go for a lithium LB in the future, the IP 22 can't charge different profiles from each output. I'd be tempted to fit either 2 separate chargers, one for the LB & one for the starter, or simply fit a maintainer like an AMT-12.

 

[8balladdict]

Should you decide to go for a lithium LB in the future, the IP 22 can't charge different profiles from each output. I'd be tempted to fit either 2 separate chargers, one for the LB & one for the starter, or simply fit a maintainer like an AMT-12.

There’s a very valid point, I am already considering changing to lithium at the same time as doing the mains as my current LB is about 7/8 years old so can’t have much life left in it.

I know I’ll need to change my DC-to-DC as the D250SA doesn’t support lithium. Probably go with a victron one over the D250SE as I don’t need the inbuilt MTTP functionality of the CTEK. Will look at the AMT-12 as that looks like a good solution with my setup then. Thanks for the info.

 

[TallPaul_S]

Should you decide to go for a lithium LB in the future, the IP 22 can't charge different profiles from each output. I'd be tempted to fit either 2 separate chargers, one for the LB & one for the starter, or simply fit a maintainer like an AMT-12.

Literally what I was about to mention. If you did want to trickle charge the starter battery, you might want to look at an Ablemail AMT12-2. That'll have the benefit of constantly topping up the SB rather than just when you're on EHU.

 

[8balladdict]

How about this then......as a consolidation of all advice from @Dellmassive and the other comments around changing to Lithium.

I've dropped the SCR, changed from a CTEK to a Victron DC-to-DC and added in a B2B trickle charger. Made all the negatives chassis grounds, added in the PV Earth for the RCD and a +ve busbar to tidy things up. Does this look right?

 

[8balladdict]

After some more research, thinking of scrapping the CTEK and the Victron DC to DC and going with the Renogy 50A DC-DC. That way I can get rid off the MTTP and the B2B charger. New diagram posted below. Any thoughts on this setup?

 

[Salty Spuds]

After some more research, thinking of scrapping the CTEK and the Victron DC to DC and going with the Renogy 50A DC-DC. That way I can get rid off the MTTP and the B2B charger. New diagram posted below. Any thoughts on this setup?

View attachment 247275

Personally not a fan of “all in one” boxes, if one bit fails, the whole lot fails & you’ve no redundancy. Also I prefer not to mix brands, if you stick with one or the other (Victron would be my choice) you only have one app, and everything in one place.
Just my 2penneth

 

[8balladdict]

Yeah I do agree with you, I like the Victron stuff and having the visibility through the app. Just thinking if I went for the Renogy, I wouldn't need to put in the Stirling B2B charger as the Renogy trickle charges the starter battery from solar once the leisure battery is full.

Really think Victron are missing a trick with the Blue Smart charger not being capable of having two different charge profiles on different outputs.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Yeah I do agree with you, I like the Victron stuff and having the visibility through the app. Just thinking if I went for the Renogy, I wouldn't need to put in the Stirling B2B charger as the Renogy trickle charges the starter battery from solar once the leisure battery is full.

Really think Victron are missing a trick with the Blue Smart charger not being capable of having two different charge profiles on different outputs.

So actually you’re putting 3 eggs into the Renogy basket, solar, B2B, starter maintainer. So if it goes tits up, you’ve lost the lot.

 

[8balladdict]

So actually you’re putting 3 eggs into the Renogy basket, solar, B2B, starter maintainer. So if it goes tits up, you’ve lost the lot.

When you put it like that….

 

[DXX]

I only own one Renogy product, a 2Kw inverter for non van use. I’ve seen jigsaw puzzles with better documentation / manuals.
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