Hidden awning rail under Pop-Top

[Midgetmole]

Hi, just followed everyone's instructions on here and got a hidden rail installed, thanks for all the posts.

Just wanted to give people a bit of a heads up if your pop top bolt is really close to the roof and you need to cut the metal (tried dremeling it out to no avail) that it does still work. Just use bonding glue on all parts of the back part that has no bolts.

 

[Richy_Boy]

Had my rail supplied and fitted by camper essentials. Couldn't be happier! Completely hidden and looks smart!

Great company

 

[saintclarkey1]

For anyone else doing this I've had a stab at trial fitting the funky leisure one Here on a LWB with a Skyline Aurora pop top. I've notched it around the struts and hinge (like everyone else has done) and then I'll powder coat before fitting proper. I know I don't have to powder coat it but to keep with the black and candy white theme I'm choosing to (also it will smooth out/hide the grinded edges). A LWB leaves three bolts and then you just need to sikalfex the rear (or put a pop rivet in with the sikalfex should you choose). I've noticed this rail sits out to far and just catches the rubber trim on the pop top when closing. I can close it at the front but it requires some manipulation however the back of the roof is way off from closing. Based on this I've started to trim about 6mm off the entire length of the rail and repositioned the OEM bolts holes. I'm hoping this should enable me to push the rail closer to the center of the van and avoid the roof when closing. Here's some pictures of the install to date. I'll post some updates as and when I get a bit further.

 

[RunDSG]

For anyone else doing this I've had a stab at trial fitting the funky leisure one Here on a LWB with a Skyline Aurora pop top. I've notched it around the struts and hinge (like everyone else has done) and then I'll powder coat before fitting proper. I know I don't have to powder coat it but to keep with the black and candy white theme I'm choosing to (also it will smooth out/hide the grinded edges). A LWB leaves three bolts and then you just need to sikalfex the rear (or put a pop rivet in with the sikalfex should you choose). I've noticed this rail sits out to far and just catches the rubber trim on the pop top when closing. I can close it at the front but it requires some manipulation however the back of the roof is way off from closing. Based on this I've started to trim about 6mm off the entire length of the rail and repositioned the OEM bolts holes. I'm hoping this should enable me to push the rail closer to the center of the van and avoid the roof when closing. Here's some pictures of the install to date. I'll post some updates as and when I get a bit further.

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Hmmm. Interesting. My rail makes contact with the rubber seal on the pop top, but it passes it easy going up and down and there’s no rubbing.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Back out there at lunchtime to finish grinding the width down. I'm pleased the report the roof now closes at the front and middle with no issues. The rear also closes but it does catch ever so slightly but only at the very end of the rail/corner of the roof. I can't accept this so I'll pop out later and shorten the rail from the back end with the grinder which should make it a clean closure all the way along. Tbh I think if I fixed the rear down with a self tapper and sikaflex as flush to the body work as possible it probably wouldn't catch anyway but no harm taking a bit more length off it.

 

[saintclarkey1]

A little update, been a bit busy recently and in no rush for the rail. All cuts finished so just started the painting process. As it's aluminium you need to sand the rail with 120 grit paper and then clean/degrease properly. Again because it's aluminium you need to spray it initially with an etch primer so I've done a couple of coats of that (Halfords spray got really good reviews so went with that). Then I'm going to build up with normal filler primer before applying gloss black and a clear lacquer. (Again all halfords branded stuff)

 

[saintclarkey1]

Heres the finished job after the gloss black and lacquer. Really happy with it. Don't get me wrong it's not body shop standard as I didn't bother sanding and cleaning between coates but it won't be rusting or deteriorating anytime soon.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Just got some time to install this morning. Bit of sikaflex around the three available OEM bolts holes. Dollop more at the back and around the hole I drilled for the rivet. Then place it into position, It's helpful to have someone lifting the rear of it off the sikaflex whilst you put the OEM bolts back in. Then I placed the rear on the sikaflex and located the hole for the rivet. Slightly more complicated job than just glueing and screwing a vanmoose or Reimo awning but I'm much happier having it hidden and I can remove it fairly easily without leaving loads of screws holes on the sides of your van and a strip of sika to clear off

 

[Camper Essentials]

Mike - this was a great post and answered most of the questions I was having with myself. I have the sample of the same profile you have used from funky leisure and have concluded with cutting out around my pop top hinge (west dubs - so 2 large sections) is the best discreet option for me.

One question I do have for you now that you've experienced it for 20 months or so - have you had any regrets about only having the option to use it with the pop top up? I'm thinking of a situation where you have a drive away awning up but in windy conditions you want to put the pop top down? And/or is it actually possible to put the pop top down with the kador strip still attached and running under the rubber deal of the pop top? Or is that not advisable?

Also - any issues with the profile size at all? Has been compatible with your kit ok? What beading size has worked best?

Would welcome your real world experience and any other's input. I have just bought the drive away awning and planning the best way to fit it as discreetly as possible with minimum drilling, or certainly with new drilling in non-exposed areas.

Many thanks

Rich

I have wide Kador Bead that you can use and this will sneak out under the rubber when the roof is down. I've not got it live on the website yet but give me a call on 07900600886. Regards Sach - Camper Essentials www.CamperEssentials.co.uk

 

[dubLU]

Does this prevent a fiamma type awning being fitted in the future?

 

[Camper Essentials]

Does this prevent a fiamma type awning being fitted in the future?

If you can send me a photo of the roof and set up that you have now I can fully advise. Either WhatsApp 07900600886 or email info@camperessentials.co.uk

 

[4WheelsFromCanvas]

I have wide Kador Bead that you can use and this will sneak out under the rubber when the roof is down. I've not got it live on the website yet but give me a call on 07900600886. Regards Sach - Camper Essentials www.CamperEssentials.co.uk

That sounds interesting thanks for the response. I have a set up now currently and haven’t actually tried to see if I could close the room but will bear this mind if I need it in this awning season. Many thanks!

 

[denz1968]

Just ordered rail sample from Funky to check fit under my pop top

 

[MikeWillmott]

Aurora LWB 3 piece rail with the home made stainless Z brackets as joining plates.
Had to do it this way as my Funky leisure rail was left at Skyline HQ and I needed a quick and cheap solution. Was going to use the FL rail when I got it back but didn’t as what I have is good. Apart from the annoying bend around the scissor mount.

 

[denz1968]

Quick question guys - what silkaflex to fasten these down with please?

Thanks

 

[Bigsidavies]

Quick question guys - what silkaflex to fasten these down with please?

Thanks

For the hidden c channel rails they can be bolted into the original roof mount bolts if still visible after conversion.
I had to screw mine into the pop top frame but same idea.

 

[denz1968]

I will be using the 3 bolts for the roof mount, but the rear section at the back of the pop top system will need silka??

 

[Bigsidavies]

Can you not slide it under the scissor hinge fitting. That’s what I’ve done.

 

[Rabkia]

Maybe like @Niknak has?

I can’t as my pop top fills the rail guide

 

[denz1968]

Can you not slide it under the scissor hinge fitting. That’s what I’ve done.

Do you have a photo please