High top; would you / have you?!

Very strange @Rob2red the before picture actually does look like it's missing something. Van looks smashing. Think the swamper look sets it all off! Enjoy.
Thanks @ChrisBell I was dreading it to be honest as I loved it as it was! I didn't 'want' it done, it was a must for us having experienced camping with a crouched back constantly. I was pleasantly surprised when I collected her! Cheers mate.
 
Well guys I've had it done!!

And I love it!

So there were two massive problems with getting this done.

- One was because it was a Caravelle.
- the other was because it was a LWB.

Many companies would have done it if it was a SWB even with it being a Velle.

In the end I've stuck with Remapping The Way as they agreed they'd do it for me. They ordered the Reimo roof for me and we booked it in for the work! Andrew, Josh, and Dai have done an awesome job and I'm really happy with the result!

There's enough room for someone just over 6ft to stand up, so no more crouching over!

We still have a bit to do to finish it, awning and cupboards but happy campers here!

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Congrats - it does seem to look right. Maybe it’s the white or the Swamper theme?

My normal response to the question would be Crafter.
 
Congrats - it does seem to look right. Maybe it’s the white or the Swamper theme?

My normal response to the question would be Crafter.

Haha, I think I'd agree too! I'd love to have a crafter when we're retired! At the moment it's my daily drive to my work aswell so I find the LWB quite long enough! :)
 
I have just recently bought a High Roof T6 to convert and considering cladding the ceiling but not sure how to fix to it as it is plastic, anyone got any ideas or done similar?

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I have just recently bought a High Roof T6 to convert and considering cladding the ceiling but not sure how to fix to it as it is plastic, anyone got any ideas or done similar?

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I've converted five high roof Transporters (T4, T5 & T6) over the past twenty years and where necessary I have bonded a wooden block to the roof to screw into. Yes it causes a 'cold bridge' but kept to a minimum size this is not noticeable. Four of mine were fitted with Reimo high roofs and one with a factory roof like yours. Personally I didn't like the factory high roof as much as the Reimo ones BUT there is a vast difference in price!
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@CatDem if you think I can answer any questions please ask BUT remember it's seven years since I did the last one and I'm old so my memory isn't as good as it should be!
 
I've converted five high roof Transporters (T4, T5 & T6) over the past twenty years and where necessary I have bonded a wooden block to the roof to screw into. Yes it causes a 'cold bridge' but kept to a minimum size this is not noticeable. Four of mine were fitted with Reimo high roofs and one with a factory roof like yours. Personally I didn't like the factory high roof as much as the Reimo ones BUT there is a vast difference in price!
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@CatDem if you think I can answer any questions please ask BUT remember it's seven years since I did the last one and I'm old so my memory isn't as good as it should be!
Thanks for your help, what did you use to bond it Sikaflex? I will be thermo-lining it anyway so that should solve the problem?
 
Thanks for your help, what did you use to bond it Sikaflex? I will be thermo-lining it anyway so that should solve the problem?
I am fairly certain that I used Fast Grab or an older version of the same stuff. I also used the same for any bonding of parts of the wooden structure as it's good for almost any environment you are likely to find in a camper. If it's good in sea water it's good enough for me. Not cheap but what is in this world!
 
I am fairly certain that I used Fast Grab or an older version of the same stuff. I also used the same for any bonding of parts of the wooden structure as it's good for almost any environment you are likely to find in a camper. If it's good in sea water it's good enough for me. Not cheap but what is in this world!
is it safe to fit a wind out awning to these roofs?
 
is it safe to fit a wind out awning to these roofs?
Well I have in a number of cases. Both factory and Reimo roofs are quite strong but I have always fixed them through to a wooden board to spread the weight. I bonded the board to the inside of the roof then used Tee Nuts to screw the mounting bolts into thus the awning brackets can be removed without needing access to the inner end of the fixings.
The link is to 8mm Tee Nuts but they are available in other sizes and I can't remember which is needed for this job.

You will find that you may need to fit the rear awning mounting in the area of that steel reinforcing triangle. From experience if you do then by all means fix all the way through the steel but put a wooden filler piece between the steel and the fibreglass roof to prevent any flexing of the outer fibreglass shell or it may crack. Don't ask how I know!
 
Well I have in a number of cases. Both factory and Reimo roofs are quite strong but I have always fixed them through to a wooden board to spread the weight. I bonded the board to the inside of the roof then used Tee Nuts to screw the mounting bolts into thus the awning brackets can be removed without needing access to the inner end of the fixings.
The link is to 8mm Tee Nuts but they are available in other sizes and I can't remember which is needed for this job.

You will find that you may need to fit the rear awning mounting in the area of that steel reinforcing triangle. From experience if you do then by all means fix all the way through the steel but put a wooden filler piece between the steel and the fibreglass roof to prevent any flexing of the outer fibreglass shell or it may crack. Don't ask how I know!
Thanks again for your help that's how I had thought of doing it but just wanted to double check
 
Well I have in a number of cases. Both factory and Reimo roofs are quite strong but I have always fixed them through to a wooden board to spread the weight. I bonded the board to the inside of the roof then used Tee Nuts to screw the mounting bolts into thus the awning brackets can be removed without needing access to the inner end of the fixings.
The link is to 8mm Tee Nuts but they are available in other sizes and I can't remember which is needed for this job.

You will find that you may need to fit the rear awning mounting in the area of that steel reinforcing triangle. From experience if you do then by all means fix all the way through the steel but put a wooden filler piece between the steel and the fibreglass roof to prevent any flexing of the outer fibreglass shell or it may crack. Don't ask how I know!
What size would you recommend for the wooden board?
 
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