Does the service history show a CV boot being replaced?
Judder through steering wheel
- Thread starter racT6bus
- Start date
Nope, nothing on there about that. Will get that checked next week too
An update.
Garage took it for a spin and it didn’t do the juddering (obvs!) but they have said that both the offside and nearside driveshafts are shot and the CV joint on the nearside needs replacing, hopefully there lies the problem. I also have a leak from the front oil seal, so all together it’s going to cost a small fortune to fix.
Any ideas what this is likely to cost? Are any of the above common on the T6? Mileage is 96k and it’s ex RAC so probably a fair amount of idling on top of those miles!!
Luckily I do have a warranty, how much of the above they will cover I don’t know yet!!
Garage took it for a spin and it didn’t do the juddering (obvs!) but they have said that both the offside and nearside driveshafts are shot and the CV joint on the nearside needs replacing, hopefully there lies the problem. I also have a leak from the front oil seal, so all together it’s going to cost a small fortune to fix.
Any ideas what this is likely to cost? Are any of the above common on the T6? Mileage is 96k and it’s ex RAC so probably a fair amount of idling on top of those miles!!
Luckily I do have a warranty, how much of the above they will cover I don’t know yet!!
Has anyone had a similar experience to the above? Any idea what a fair amount is it should cost to rectify?
The CV joints are part of the drive shaft assembly so it doesn’t make much sense. I would get a written quote with parts and labour and then use to obtain comparison quotes.
As for the free end oil seal, have a look at the timing belt kit, water pump, ribbed belt / tensioner maintenance history as it maybe due soon. The seal replacement it’s slightly more work and fairly minor additional parts cost.
Your cheapest fix based on parts alone is to get the CV joint on the nearside driveshaft replaced. Depending on the labour cost of the garage it may be cost effective to have the full driveshaft replaced as they're not that much more and it should take approx 30 minutes less to do. You can get an aftermarket driveshaft with a 5 year warranty for circa £150 if you shop around.
For the oil leak ref DXX above it's one of those jobs that you'd do when replacing the timing belt (or you'd at least change the timing belt whilst you're replacing the oil pump belt cover which holds the seal). You need to find out how bad the leak is first so you can determine if it's a 'fix it now' or something you can leave until the timing belt is due to be done. At your mileage you might want to get the wet oil pump belt done at the same time. The belt material degrades with time from the diesel that pollutes the engine oil during DPF regens.
For the oil leak ref DXX above it's one of those jobs that you'd do when replacing the timing belt (or you'd at least change the timing belt whilst you're replacing the oil pump belt cover which holds the seal). You need to find out how bad the leak is first so you can determine if it's a 'fix it now' or something you can leave until the timing belt is due to be done. At your mileage you might want to get the wet oil pump belt done at the same time. The belt material degrades with time from the diesel that pollutes the engine oil during DPF regens.
It’s incredible that VW haven’t set a renewal interval on this belt. Oh hang on a minute, it’s a commercial vehicle that supposed to be run into the ground within 6 years!
Thanks @DXX - I have a bit more info, there's excessive play in the OS drive shaft and stub shaft. Additionally there is excessive play in the NS drive shaft. Sounds like both will have to get replaced, but I have asked to see the damage and will need pics for the warranty. Typically the cambelt and water pump were only done last summer, but it sounds like I'll have to do again if I am replacing the oil seal - the garage suggested that it's best practice as the oil may have contaminated the belt and they have to remove to fix the seal anyway.
Thanks @Mooncat that's really helpful
They can inspect the belt in 10 minutes, any oil contamination will be obvious. If it’s not an excessive leak and belt is clean I would wait with the oil seal until the timing belt renewal is due.
I can confirm it was definite the driveshafts causing the problem, I got videos of the excessive play and pics of the damage. Had it all sorted, drives great again now, judder has gone completely.
My RAC (Assurant) warranty only covered half the costs, they would only pay for certain parts and refuse to replace with OEM, only the cheapest aftermarket parts and calculating labour time that is unrealistic. They are a con, but glad I had it! Whilst it cost me a small fortune to fix I wanted the proper OEM parts…. buy once all that!
My RAC (Assurant) warranty only covered half the costs, they would only pay for certain parts and refuse to replace with OEM, only the cheapest aftermarket parts and calculating labour time that is unrealistic. They are a con, but glad I had it! Whilst it cost me a small fortune to fix I wanted the proper OEM parts…. buy once all that!
OK, good it’s sorted, was it splines or CV joints?
Also what is the mileage, assuming from your name RAC…… its high?
baldonion
New Member
mine is doing it right now, I took it to the garage and they replaced the front engine mount which did help but its still there, i'm now thinking that i may as well just replace all the mounts as it does feel a bit sloppy when pulling away. Drive shafts already bought so doing them too
DeanCoulson
New Member
I am getting this right now aka engine judder between 1500 and 2200 revs (mostly felt in 4th gear) on a 67 plate T6 ex AA van, 6 speed 150bhp with 109k miles. Also now getting judder/vibration through the steering wheel and low speeds <10mph.
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Check the inner CV joints of the driveshafts. I had similar issues and it was a joint that was failing.
DeanCoulson
New Member
Thanks for the info, I will get this checked out
