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Main and Battery Supply not Working after Jump Start
- Thread starter S90MRJ
- Start date
Hate to say but the VW garage might take one look at your beefy set up and say they're not touching it. It's all non std fit and unless they know their way around a 12v camper set up they're not going to know what to test/check etc.
So, there's something in-between your battery and your 12v feeds (starting with the lynx distributor) that's causing nothing to be drawn from the battery.
Can you identify the main feed from your battery positive to the lynx?
Do you have something that you can connect directly to the battery positive and negative (like an led light or similar) to test that the issue isn't with the battery? As that will eliminate anything downstream from the battery, just to confirm it's able to provide power and that you see a draw on the app.
Like the new multimeter you've just bought.
You've mentioned gas not getting enough power twice now and it's really not clear what you mean.
Yep, although I'm not sure how/if you can generate a load with a multimeter?
I would check the tightness of all the nuts on that bus bar - you may well be able to see voltage across it but if you have a loose high resistance connection a multimeter in voltage mode has almost no load and wouldn't show the issue.
Obviously be careful not to cause a short, maybe turn the battery off in the app while you check.
Obviously be careful not to cause a short, maybe turn the battery off in the app while you check.
On that beefy of a system I'd expect there to be a main fuse/breaker and/or isolator switch between the battery and the lynx distributor. If you have them, the fuse should be suitably beefy (100-200a Megafuse for instance) - double check both as either of these being born or switched off will cause zero draw from your battery.
The fridge etc shutting off is going be because it's only being powered from the 240v charger (which is providing almost zero amps as the battery is fully charged) or solar.
Can you confirm what DC-DC charger you have?
The fridge etc shutting off is going be because it's only being powered from the 240v charger (which is providing almost zero amps as the battery is fully charged) or solar.
Can you confirm what DC-DC charger you have?
This 60A fuse connection nut looks a lot looser than the others and the fuse tab seems bent upwards and not in good contact with the bus bar?
The fuse tab at the other end doesn't look great either
Good eyes!
Same with the right hand nut (marked red). Doesn’t look like the split washer is compressed.
Yep!
Yep edited the post to add that, probably should have replied instead and not change history
Yep, that'll do it!!
If you've got tools handy definitely check the nuts above as at the very least they'll be creating a bit of heat.
I really don't like split washers on terminals like that, much prefer a nylon insert lock nut
So it would seem the voltage you EHU charger was seeing was likely from your Solar charger fooling it's battery detection.
One to keep in mind debugging installations with multiple chargers.
One to keep in mind debugging installations with multiple chargers.
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