It was that format that I used on one campers and I wrapped the air pipe with Thinsulate. However my air pipe went above a modified version of the heat-shield running it between the heat-shield and the floor.
Night Heater location - internal or external??
- Thread starter hoggle
- Start date
It was that format that I used on one campers and I wrapped the air pipe with Thinsulate. However my air pipe went above a modified version of the heat-shield running it between the heat-shield and the floor.
( 18 months
)
Pump noise is mainly down to the fitment method of the pump AND the pipes to and from it. Pump fitted on a good rubber mounting, pipes looped or curved adjacent to the pump so as to minimise noise transmission onto the vehicle structure. Also be aware that the pipe from the pump to the heater will transmit the pump pulse noise onto the body structure depending on how and where it touches / is fixed.
A genuine Eberspacher should need minimal maintenance and fitted in the OEM position with the exhaust facing inwards and backwards protected by the original plastic shields will work for years without any attention. Mine is into its sixth year of operation without any problems.
The main factor when deciding where to locate your air heater is where you are planning to travel.
If you are likely to go offroad and do the fording, you must mount your heater internally.
Your heater mounted under the body will only last a first decent ford. After this you will most likely face the need to buy the new unit.
On the other hand, if you are not going offroad, a heater mounted under the body will save precious space in the van itself that you could use to place inverter and other gadgets. Yes, the noise might be a bit higher but the primary decision driver should be your travel plans.
If you are likely to go offroad and do the fording, you must mount your heater internally.
Your heater mounted under the body will only last a first decent ford. After this you will most likely face the need to buy the new unit.
On the other hand, if you are not going offroad, a heater mounted under the body will save precious space in the van itself that you could use to place inverter and other gadgets. Yes, the noise might be a bit higher but the primary decision driver should be your travel plans.
Most probably you had summer fuel in the pipes still instead of winter fuel.
I have the autotherm in my t5.1 swb. I purchased the additional mounting plate and have it under the van in the space used by VW. The heater has proved faultless, is quiet, economic and provides great heat levels. Not cheap but not as expensive as the main two mentioned. Comes with 2 years warranty.Thanks for the many replies. I was thinking about going down the clone route, but have decided that after spending nearly 30k on the Van, and a lot more since. I couldn't put my trust in a cheap Chinese copy. Therefore, it is either a Eber or Webasto. And looking through the above posts, it seems to be more of a preference to where the Heater is sited. Than opposed to manufacturers recommendations... Hmm, still undecided!!
For externally mounted heaters, what are people using for the inlet /outlet house holes in the floor? I've seen people just prime and u-trim them, but I'd much prefer a proper bonded bulkhead fitting to be 100% watertight.
Duct joiners are the things to use:
60mm
1/2X 60mm Pipe Ducting Joiner Connector Outlet Vent For Webasto Diesel Heater | eBay
90mm
You can get galvanized versions also
60mm
1/2X 60mm Pipe Ducting Joiner Connector Outlet Vent For Webasto Diesel Heater | eBay
90mm
EBERSPACHER/WEBASTO HEATER 90mm DUCTING CONNECTOR/JOINER 9009259C 221000010024 | eBay
Part Number: 9009259C (Superceeded to 1319869A). Genuine New Webasto Part. Connects 2 lengths of 90mm ID ducting together.
www.ebay.co.uk
You can get galvanized versions also
There are 60mm through fittings but I've always simply brought the ducting through the nearest size hole in the floor that I have a cutter for. You could use something like this, I have in the past but I did have it to hand at the time.
I always use a cold galvanise spray to coat the cut edges and that has been successful for preventing corrosion in the past.
I am currently fitting a 4kW Eberspacher under the floor of a MAN TGE (VW Crafter) in the OEM brackets but dividing the 90mm outlet into two 60mm ones, one to exit under the driver's seat and the other to go further back into the habitation area. The ingoing duct to the heater is only 75mm and that will intake from the right front door step just like a T6. The factory ducting is just too expensive to contemplate for what it achieves.
Cheers guys, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a trick. Planning on fitting over the weekend so not going down be able to lay my hands on a coupler, but I'm thinking I'll just prime the cut edges and bond a 3d printed flange that's snug to the ducting OD and with a nice lead in
I prefer to fit them so that they are gas and watertight. You could just cut your hole and then go back and sikaflex the joiner in afterwards. It is surprising the ease with which gases can get through holes in the floor pan.
