Problem with aftermarket puddle lights connected to door lock on 2019 T6
- Thread starter Andysmee
- Start date
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- Tags
- indicator puddle lights
Yeah, that doesn't prove anything.
So, moving on, I would recommend that anyone with these puddle lights reconsider the way they are connected to their van. I will be changing mine to the courtesy lighting circuit as soon as I can.
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As above.
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Mine are fed from courtesy circuit (effectively in parallel with interior lights) - so eventually they will time out.
@Andysmee you were not at fault at any stage of this mod.
I was trying my best to help you and please accept my apologies if I insulted you in any way.
The fact that English is not my native language could be some kind of excuse.
By the way warning for everyone.
DO NOT FOLLOW ANY MODS PRESENTED HERE ON THIS FORUM BY ME!
I was trying my best to help you and please accept my apologies if I insulted you in any way.
The fact that English is not my native language could be some kind of excuse.
You are simply trying to make it work with incorrect type of lamps. Change your lights to different type and it will work as expected.
By the way warning for everyone.
DO NOT FOLLOW ANY MODS PRESENTED HERE ON THIS FORUM BY ME!
BCM (via T73a/19 & T73a/20) gets "door opened" confirmation and this confirmation is a GND.
By adding a diode on the wire between the BCM and the door lock switch this confirmation "signal" will most likely be affected.
I haven't tested it so can't advise for sure.
You could add a diode between the light and the splice/join but this is not going to help either.
FYI, I have completed comprehensive voltage measurements on my T6
and another VAG vehicle with OEM factory fitted puddle lights.
I will post more details later on.
By adding a diode on the wire between the BCM and the door lock switch this confirmation "signal" will most likely be affected.
I haven't tested it so can't advise for sure.
You could add a diode between the light and the splice/join but this is not going to help either.
FYI, I have completed comprehensive voltage measurements on my T6
and another VAG vehicle with OEM factory fitted puddle lights.
I will post more details later on.
Just for comparison purposes and to actually see how OEM factory setup behaves
see my voltage measurements on my Passat below.
Door open (ignition OFF).
Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from -1.6V to +1.6V and frequency of nearly 50Hz) effective RMS value is 0V
Next is the lamp off the vehicle and "minimum voltage" test.
From 0V up to 6.2V no light(no glowing) at all and no amperage(not even single mA).
Light illuminates when voltages exceeds 6.4V (current just about 1mA)
Nominal voltage 12V and 199mA (2.39W)
Max voltage on this vehicle 14.4V and 162mA (2.33W)
I will let you add your comments first.
see my voltage measurements on my Passat below.
Door open (ignition OFF).
Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from -1.6V to +1.6V and frequency of nearly 50Hz) effective RMS value is 0V
Next is the lamp off the vehicle and "minimum voltage" test.
From 0V up to 6.2V no light(no glowing) at all and no amperage(not even single mA).
Light illuminates when voltages exceeds 6.4V (current just about 1mA)
Nominal voltage 12V and 199mA (2.39W)
Max voltage on this vehicle 14.4V and 162mA (2.33W)
I will let you add your comments first.
This is actually interesting point - MY19 vans (the few I have scanned) have a different D-revision BCM which brought some significant changes (e.g. remote (key fob) programming was changed). Also the dash instrument module is a different one... far-fetched perhaps... or not?
The most confusing thing is how indicators can do their thing - or to be precise, perhaps just the stalk, and hazard flasher switch.
Meanwhile - measured my puddle lights. The threshold to turn them on is at approx. 8 Volts. Less than that - absolutely no light. At 8.3 Volts they are dimly lit. From 11-16 Volts 220mA.
Perhaps OBDeleven --> https://www.t6forum.com/threads/obd-eleven-and-credits.19676/post-269952
Just noticed the previous owner - don't they install trackers etc. in their fleet? Again the fascinating relationship between door switches and indicators?
Thanks for that, I'm now finding lots of info on the 090 D H82 BCM which is tripping people up.
Interestingly, when I removed my old door, the lock didn't have the same rivets setup as the pictures from other threads about removing the assembly carrier. So it's even possible there was a lock module change late on in the T6's model life. Most likely this behaviour is limited to late models so I'll revert the thread title for others.
I'll get a VCDS scan at some point, but I will move to the courtesy lighting feed in any case now the door skin is off.
My T6 puddle light voltage measurements.
Door open (ignition OFF).
Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from +0.5V to +4V and frequency of 100Hz) effective RMS value is 3V.
My statement of 0V in previous post was not based on actual measurement but instead on incorrect assumption.
My conclusion is that this setup is suitable for puddle lights with verified voltage threshold of at least 6 Volts.
With any other type of puddle lights, courtesy lighting feed should be used instead.
That's interesting. I don't suppose you tried with the indicators stalk on?
On what page of wiring diagram the mismatch was?
I can't find it now but it was this problem :
Thanks Matt, I'll try that. Not sure if it's my Trendline that has a different loom to the Highlines, but it has a grey /blue (not discernibly blue / grey, by the way) and a grey / blue dashed or dotted as well. Pin 10 will be the dashed / dotted line. Here's a better picture:
View attachment 90437
Looking forward to showing the results later
P.S. can someone point me to a kit of led bulbs for this unit?
The measurement was done across the light? So the other reference is +12V? Would it be easy to disconnect the light - so basically measure the BCM "sensing line" (=door switch line) against ground (without the light loading the line)? Then I would expect to see this ---> https://www.t6forum.com/threads/power-fold-mirror-retrofit-with-fold-on-remote-lock.885/post-323848
Correct, across the light.
Your period here is approx. 10 ms and this equals to frequency of 100Hz(which is the same as my measurement).
This must be BCM's sampling frequency on a T6.
Passat has 50Hz which comes from Central Convenience Module (46) and effectively this module is an older generation of modern BCM.
Also frequency increase from 50Hz to 100Hz makes sense as this would be higher sensing accuracy.
I can try to take extra measurements without the light but that would require removal of door card.
We have to wait for the weather to improve a little bit.
Your period here is approx. 10 ms and this equals to frequency of 100Hz(which is the same as my measurement).
This must be BCM's sampling frequency on a T6.
Passat has 50Hz which comes from Central Convenience Module (46) and effectively this module is an older generation of modern BCM.
Also frequency increase from 50Hz to 100Hz makes sense as this would be higher sensing accuracy.
I can try to take extra measurements without the light but that would require removal of door card.
We have to wait for the weather to improve a little bit.
Yes I did, see below.
Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from +0.5V to +5.9V and frequency of 100Hz) effective RMS value is 4.2V.
Voltage shown below appears in 3 scenarios only:
- when indicator stalk(E2) is engaged left
- when indicator stalk(E2) is engaged right
- when hazard lights switch(E3) is kept pressed
otherwise it is the same as shown previously.
Comparing to my previous measurement there is a difference of 1.2V
and this explains why @Andysmee noticed increased glowing.
My point( here & here ) was that his lights are not suitable for this wiring methodology.
Additionally please see below wiring diagrams.
By engaging indicator stalk or pressing hazard lights switch the GND it being brought to the BCM via one of the following inputs(T73a/28 or T73a/32 or T73a/33).
And then this "kind of additional" GND via internal circuits of the BCM gets to T73a/19 & T73a/20
and effectively lowers their potential thus causing voltage increase on the puddle lights.
My final conclusion is that only puddle lamps/lights with verified voltage threshold of at least 6V should be used.
