Problem with aftermarket puddle lights connected to door lock on 2019 T6

I'll double-check mine as per instructions tomorrow...
Could someone with puddle lights do a check for me....switch your engine on and open your door to trigger the door puddle light. All good puddle lights come on

Then use a screwdriver or long nose pliers to latch the door latch and trick the door into appearing closed, the puddle light should go. Yes mine go off

First look at the light and check it's off, then try switching the indicators on and check the light remains off? Mine remain off
As above.
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Mine are fed from courtesy circuit (effectively in parallel with interior lights) - so eventually they will time out.
 
@Andysmee you were not at fault at any stage of this mod.
I was trying my best to help you and please accept my apologies if I insulted you in any way.
The fact that English is not my native language could be some kind of excuse.
Which wire colours did you use?
You are simply trying to make it work with incorrect type of lamps. Change your lights to different type and it will work as expected.

By the way warning for everyone.
DO NOT FOLLOW ANY MODS PRESENTED HERE ON THIS FORUM BY ME!
 
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What about a diode in the lock return signal after your splice/join ?
Stop any kind of return from the BCM and should make them off off when the door is shut
 
BCM (via T73a/19 & T73a/20) gets "door opened" confirmation and this confirmation is a GND.
By adding a diode on the wire between the BCM and the door lock switch this confirmation "signal" will most likely be affected.
I haven't tested it so can't advise for sure.
You could add a diode between the light and the splice/join but this is not going to help either.

FYI, I have completed comprehensive voltage measurements on my T6
and another VAG vehicle with OEM factory fitted puddle lights.
I will post more details later on.
 
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Just for comparison purposes and to actually see how OEM factory setup behaves
see my voltage measurements on my Passat below.

Door open (ignition OFF).
20210125_140840.jpg

Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from -1.6V to +1.6V and frequency of nearly 50Hz) effective RMS value is 0V
20210125_140827.jpg

Next is the lamp off the vehicle and "minimum voltage" test.

From 0V up to 6.2V no light(no glowing) at all and no amperage(not even single mA).
20210125_141244.jpg

Light illuminates when voltages exceeds 6.4V (current just about 1mA)
20210125_141521.jpg

Nominal voltage 12V and 199mA (2.39W)
20210125_141326.jpg

Max voltage on this vehicle 14.4V and 162mA (2.33W)
20210125_141427.jpg

I will let you add your comments first.
 
unless there was a change before the 2019 vans.
This is actually interesting point - MY19 vans (the few I have scanned) have a different D-revision BCM which brought some significant changes (e.g. remote (key fob) programming was changed). Also the dash instrument module is a different one... far-fetched perhaps... or not?

The most confusing thing is how indicators can do their thing - or to be precise, perhaps just the stalk, and hazard flasher switch.

Meanwhile - measured my puddle lights. The threshold to turn them on is at approx. 8 Volts. Less than that - absolutely no light. At 8.3 Volts they are dimly lit. From 11-16 Volts 220mA.
 
And that is why we need to see complete unedited VCDS Autoscan.
 
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This is actually interesting point - MY19 vans (the few I have scanned) have a different D-revision BCM which brought some significant changes (e.g. remote (key fob) programming was changed). Also the dash instrument module is a different one... far-fetched perhaps... or not?
Thanks for that, I'm now finding lots of info on the 090 D H82 BCM which is tripping people up.

Interestingly, when I removed my old door, the lock didn't have the same rivets setup as the pictures from other threads about removing the assembly carrier. So it's even possible there was a lock module change late on in the T6's model life. Most likely this behaviour is limited to late models so I'll revert the thread title for others.

I'll get a VCDS scan at some point, but I will move to the courtesy lighting feed in any case now the door skin is off.
 
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I also had a problem with the ambient light feed as the wiring diagram didn't match. Is there a way to check for a later wiring diagram for MY19?
 
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Just for comparison purposes and to actually see how OEM factory setup behaves
see my voltage measurements on my Passat below.

Door open (ignition OFF).
View attachment 100160

Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from -1.6V to +1.6V and frequency of nearly 50Hz) effective RMS value is 0V
View attachment 100161

Next is the lamp off the vehicle and "minimum voltage" test.

From 0V up to 6.2V no light(no glowing) at all and no amperage(not even single mA).
View attachment 100159

Light illuminates when voltages exceeds 6.4V (current just about 1mA)
View attachment 100156

Nominal voltage 12V and 199mA (2.39W)
View attachment 100158

Max voltage on this vehicle 14.4V and 162mA (2.33W)
View attachment 100157

I will let you add your comments first.

My T6 puddle light voltage measurements.

Door open (ignition OFF).
20210126_212519.jpg

Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from +0.5V to +4V and frequency of 100Hz) effective RMS value is 3V.
20210126_212400.jpg

My statement of 0V in previous post was not based on actual measurement but instead on incorrect assumption.
My conclusion is that this setup is suitable for puddle lights with verified voltage threshold of at least 6 Volts.
With any other type of puddle lights, courtesy lighting feed should be used instead.
 
My T6 puddle light voltage measurements.

Door open (ignition OFF).
View attachment 100328

Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from +0.5V to +4V and frequency of 100Hz) effective RMS value is 3V.
View attachment 100327

My statement of 0V in previous post was not based on actual measurement but instead on incorrect assumption.
My conclusion is that this setup is suitable for puddle lights with verified voltage threshold of at least 6 Volts.
With any other type of puddle lights, courtesy lighting feed should be used instead.
That's interesting. I don't suppose you tried with the indicators stalk on?
 
I also had a problem with the ambient light feed as the wiring diagram didn't match. Is there a way to check for a later wiring diagram for MY19?
On what page of wiring diagram the mismatch was?
 
On what page of wiring diagram the mismatch was?
I can't find it now but it was this problem :
Thanks Matt, I'll try that. Not sure if it's my Trendline that has a different loom to the Highlines, but it has a grey /blue (not discernibly blue / grey, by the way) and a grey / blue dashed or dotted as well. Pin 10 will be the dashed / dotted line. Here's a better picture:

View attachment 90437

Looking forward to showing the results later :)
P.S. can someone point me to a kit of led bulbs for this unit?
 
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Correct, across the light.
Your period here is approx. 10 ms and this equals to frequency of 100Hz(which is the same as my measurement).
This must be BCM's sampling frequency on a T6.
Passat has 50Hz which comes from Central Convenience Module (46) and effectively this module is an older generation of modern BCM.
Also frequency increase from 50Hz to 100Hz makes sense as this would be higher sensing accuracy.
I can try to take extra measurements without the light but that would require removal of door card.
We have to wait for the weather to improve a little bit.
 
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That's interesting. I don't suppose you tried with the indicators stalk on?
Yes I did, see below.

Door closed (note voltage fluctuating from +0.5V to +5.9V and frequency of 100Hz) effective RMS value is 4.2V.
Voltage shown below appears in 3 scenarios only:
- when indicator stalk(E2) is engaged left
- when indicator stalk(E2) is engaged right
- when hazard lights switch(E3) is kept pressed
otherwise it is the same as shown previously.
20210127_193407.jpg

Comparing to my previous measurement there is a difference of 1.2V
and this explains why @Andysmee noticed increased glowing.

My point( here & here ) was that his lights are not suitable for this wiring methodology.

Additionally please see below wiring diagrams.

By engaging indicator stalk or pressing hazard lights switch the GND it being brought to the BCM via one of the following inputs(T73a/28 or T73a/32 or T73a/33).

Zrzut ekranu z 2021-01-27 21-46-03.png

Zrzut ekranu z 2021-01-27 21-55-42.png

And then this "kind of additional" GND via internal circuits of the BCM gets to T73a/19 & T73a/20
and effectively lowers their potential thus causing voltage increase on the puddle lights.
Zrzut ekranu z 2021-01-27 21-53-44.png

My final conclusion is that only puddle lamps/lights with verified voltage threshold of at least 6V should be used.
 
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