Remote switch for water boiler

Bav

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Overall, I'm very pleased with my camper conversion, but, as we've used the van, we've encountered a number of niggles and irritations that we're now looking to resolve.

Number one irritation relates to the switch to turn the water boiler on and off. The switch is situated on the boiler unit itself, which sits under the floor of the wardrobe cupboard and is accessed via a trap-door at the bottom of that cupboard. This means we have to practically empty the wardrobe every time we need access to the switch - obviously far from ideal.

At handover, the convertor acknowledged the situation, saying that they had installed a remote switch for the boiler (handily positioned with all the other controls, on the outside of the wardrobe wall) but that, contrary to their expectation, the manufacturer didn't offer a boiler with the option of a remote switch. So, we have a handily positioned, redundant switch and an awkwardly positioned working switch. :rolleyes:

Not realising how much of PITA this would be, I just accepted the [lack of a] solution, but now, I'm wondering how easy it would be to get the redundant switch to do the job it was intended to do. Obviously the switch on the boiler has to stay, as it's integral to the unit, but why can't the redundant switch be wired to control whether the boiler receives power (i.e. we leave the boiler switched permanently ON and just control the power to the boiler by switch on the side of wardrobe(?)

Is this feasible? Is it, from an electrical viewpoint, desirable?

I'd welcome your thoughts.

PS - I don't know if it makes any difference, but the boiler is only ever powered if either the inverter is switched on or if we're on EHU. If we're on hook-up, we don't care if the boiler is on all the time so don't need a handily placed switch - the issue of switching only comes in to play if we want the inverter on, but the boiler off. Hope that makes sense.
 
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A link to the boiler you have and some pictures would help?

Quite often with heating devices the on/off isn't just a basic switch, they may need to have an overrun capability so they can cool down safely when powered down.
 
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A link to the boiler you have and some pictures would help?

Quite often with heating devices the on/off isn't just a basic switch, they may need to have an overrun capability so they can cool down safely when powered down.
Different tap, but this is the boiler...

Pics of the boiler and the filter (sorry for the poor quality)...
20230716_132800.jpg 20230716_132811.jpg
 
A link to the boiler you have and some pictures would help?

Quite often with heating devices the on/off isn't just a basic switch, they may need to have an overrun capability so they can cool down safely when powered down.
Interesting about potentially needing an overrun capability, as switching the inverter off wouldn't take that into consideration.
 
Different tap, but this is the boiler...

Pics of the boiler and the filter (sorry for the poor quality)>..
View attachment 247031View attachment 247032
Do you have a picture of the working switch? Ie how accessible is it? Can you get to the reverse of the switch (ie the wires, Im guessing not as its mains and probably a sealed unit).
 
@Bav if the installation instructions i have just read apply to the same water heater you have in the event of a power failiure the boiler resets off ie you have a remote switch on the supply which you turn off then turn backon you still have to turn the boiler on via the slider on/off control on the boiler
to test get it all working disconnect the supply EHU or inverter reconnect and see if the boiler still works or you have to turn it back on
 
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@Bav if the installation instructions i have just read apply to the same water heater you have in the event of a power failiure the boiler resets off ie you have a remote switch on the supply which you turn off then turn backon you still have to turn the boiler on via the slider on/off control on the boiler
to test get it all working disconnect the supply EHU or inverter reconnect and see if the boiler still works or you have to turn it back on
Hmmm - as installed in my van, that's not how it works. Turning the inverter off and then back on again has no impact on the boiler switch. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
That boiler looks to have a basic mechanical on off switch so would probably work fine but a lot of those boilers have a electronic control and would have to be switched on at the boiler itself.
 
I suspect it's just an immersion element so no powered circulation in which case overrun is not an issue - I assume you also have a pressurised water system to feed it?

If it goes on and off with your inverter OK then you could switch it on the mains side, but that means you are going to have quite high current cabling to and from the switch so it would need to be routed and placed with care - oddly none of the documents seem to indicate a power rating for it beyond "13 Amp socket"?

What current/voltage/IP rating is the non connected remote switch?
 
I suspect it's just an immersion element so no powered circulation in which case overrun is not an issue - I assume you also have a pressurised water system to feed it?

If it goes on and off with your inverter OK then you could switch it on the mains side, but that means you are going to have quite high current cabling to and from the switch so it would need to be routed and placed with care - oddly none of the documents seem to indicate a power rating for it beyond "13 Amp socket"?

What current/voltage/IP rating is the non connected remote switch?
The user manual states "The instant hot water appliance is an open vented system appliance. When not being operated the pressure is 1 bar. The operating pressure is 1.5 bar to 5 bar". Does that answer your pressurised system question?

I don't have any documentation re the [currently redundant] switch, just a pic for you...
1718825149893.png
 
I’m no expert on camper installs but I would think the boiler is running off the 240 volt system and is probably around 1.5 to 2KW so about 8-10 amps. That switch looks to me like a low voltage (12v) switch so not suitable. Maybe some boilers have a low voltage control system but yours looks quite basic to me. As I said I am no expert on this so don’t take my word for it!!
 
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I’m no expert on camper installs but I would think the boiler is running off the 240 volt system and is probably around 1.5 to 2KW so about 8-10 amps. That switch looks to me like a low voltage (12v) switch so not suitable. Maybe some boilers have a low voltage control system but yours looks quite basic to me. As I said I am no expert on this so don’t take my word for it!!
Yes, it runs off 240v. Frustratingly, I have no spec. sheet for the boiler, but the user manual reads as if this is usually used in a domestic setting.
 
Yes I was thinking it’s a domestic boiler- can you see how it’s connected to the supply- 13a plug or hard wired? If it plugs in you might be able to use something like thisIMG_2722.png
 
I'd agree with you @Alster that doesn't look like the type of switch you'd want to be switching the likely load.

What my question was how does the water get in to the boiler - it doesn't have a pump and normally it would just be mains pressure in a house. Was wondering if you had a pressurised water system or you just turned the pump on as needed.
 
Theoretically you could use a contactor to switch the high current feed locally to the boiler and then run much lighter cabling to the switch.

The downside is a contactor is a bulky device so you'd need a 2 position box like a 240v consumer unit near the boiler, and the switch cabling would still be at mains voltage, though very low current.
 
A lot of these boilers are not under pressure. In a domestic setting when you turn the tap on it feeds water to the boiler and the hot water vents from the boiler to the tap outlet. I would think in a camper the tap just turns the pump on.
 
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